gordonb

I've got the pads, I've got a Haynes manual but the two dont go together. The manual says remove four pins that hold backing plates, and the caliper will come away. I dont have any pins!!! The assembly appears to be held on by bolts in two places - the top which has a short bolt on the inside and the bottom which looks like it is attached to the steering link. I don't want to play with the steering just to change pads - can any member enlighten me on how to remove the caliper to get to the pads???

jays83gsl

In the back of your Haynes there should be an addendum for RX7 later than 1980

gordonb

Thanks. I did look there and it only refers to rear discs on 1981 and later. there too they talk about the pins!!!

LongDuck

Okay, first off, throw your Haynes manual away and get a REAL manual - the Mazda Factory Service Manual (FSM)...

The brake calipers are held on by two bolts - both attached to 'slider' pins that allow the caliper to float left and right to center up the pads to the rotor as the wheel turns. Best method that I've come up with is to remove the LOWER bolt (14mm), unscrew it about 5-6 turns, and then it should pull out smoothly - only the first 1/2" of the bolt is threaded, the rest fits into the rubber bushing and dust cover on the caliper. With this bolt removed, pivot the caliper UP from the bottom, pivoting it on the upper bolt. Once in the upward position, the pads will be exposed for removal/replacement. I like to stick a big screwdriver in between the pivot, the rotor, and the caliper to hold the caliper up in the air while I'm working.

Once you have the pads replaced - you did install the anti-squeel shims, right??? - then you'll need to compress the piston to get the caliper to fit over the new pads, which are thicker. Open the brake reservoir cap to relieve any pressure. I use a socket wrench handle with a big socket on the end - push the 'non-wrenching' end of the socket handle into the piston and press smoothly and firmly. You'll see the piston retract into the caliper and pull the rubber dust boot along with it. Once you get the piston compressed enough to slide over the new pads, regrease your rubber boots and sliders, insert the 14mm bolt/slider from before, and tighten to about 30-40 ft/lbs. Tight, but not stripped. The caliper floats on the rubber mounts, remember, you're not torquing the bolt down to hold the wheel on or anything like that.

Get in the car and pump the brakes to take up the slack, then do a search on Brake Pad Break-In to help you get max performance out of your new pads. The worst thing that you can do is go out and heat your pads up really good and then neglect the break-in process. HTH,

gordonb

Thank you Long Duck, This is what this club chat is all about. There is no substitute for finding someone who has done it before after bumping into the same walls. I have a couple of out of the ordinary cars and bikes but there is nothing like this exchange forum for anything else, great info - thanks again.