care of an rx7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 28
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From: sydney
care of an rx7
hey everyone! i have never before owned a rotary/rx7 but iv always loved them, and im buying a series 2 in a few days. of course i want to keep this car in top condition, and just wondering if anyone could tell me the best ways to look after it?? ie. warm ups n stuff like that. thanks guys!
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 14
From: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
We should all make a "What to be Careful of with your New Rx-7" Sticky.
Hatch drains: They have hoses that snake down and out to drain. These get plugged with debris and stop draining. The water sits and rusts the bungs that are welded to the undersides of them for clamping the hoses to. Then the water drips in when it rains. It follows the carpet through cappilary action and finds itself ultimately at the bottom of the storage bin compartments, rusting the join where the rear wheel well meets the floor.
Leaky brake booster: The brake fluid drips onto the frame below the booster and nearly instantly removes the paint, of course resulting in a rusty section of frame.
Engine Dowel Pin Leak: Commonly reffered to as "The Leak of Death", this is an oil leak present over the "Mazda 12A" emblem casting on the first rotor of the engine. It's demonstrative of a rubber oil seal comprimise, and though there are questionable treatments designed to prolong the life of the engine, these are usually simply acts of desperation.
The engine will eventually progress to a state needing a rebuild.
-This may not sound too terrible compared to a broken apex seal, but chances are high that the engine was overheated at one time and housing warpage occured, causing this leak.
The components will have to be re-lapped.
NEVER overheat a rotary engine!!!
Idler Arm Bushing: The steering idler arm contains a plastic bushing that will quickly disintigrate once it decides to go. This happens as a result of lack of proper front end lubrication. Steering suddenly has more play, though not dangerously, and there is a definite ratteling throughout the frame of the front end with road bumps (feeling and sounding much like a broken shocck).
If caught early on, the bushing can be replaced. In the states, often a mechanic will try to replace the entire arm at much more cost to you. (I nievely paid $85.00 US to have mine replaced and installed.)
Change the damn fuel filter!
This should be the first thing you do. A clogged filter in a carbureted model is marked by a lacof power in third gear at about 5000 rpm ( +/- one gear & 1000 rpm).
Change the plugs- Or at least inspect them.
Oh there's plenty more, and nearly all easily remedied or avoided by simple maintainance.
Someone else?
Hatch drains: They have hoses that snake down and out to drain. These get plugged with debris and stop draining. The water sits and rusts the bungs that are welded to the undersides of them for clamping the hoses to. Then the water drips in when it rains. It follows the carpet through cappilary action and finds itself ultimately at the bottom of the storage bin compartments, rusting the join where the rear wheel well meets the floor.
Leaky brake booster: The brake fluid drips onto the frame below the booster and nearly instantly removes the paint, of course resulting in a rusty section of frame.
Engine Dowel Pin Leak: Commonly reffered to as "The Leak of Death", this is an oil leak present over the "Mazda 12A" emblem casting on the first rotor of the engine. It's demonstrative of a rubber oil seal comprimise, and though there are questionable treatments designed to prolong the life of the engine, these are usually simply acts of desperation.
The engine will eventually progress to a state needing a rebuild.
-This may not sound too terrible compared to a broken apex seal, but chances are high that the engine was overheated at one time and housing warpage occured, causing this leak.
The components will have to be re-lapped.
NEVER overheat a rotary engine!!!
Idler Arm Bushing: The steering idler arm contains a plastic bushing that will quickly disintigrate once it decides to go. This happens as a result of lack of proper front end lubrication. Steering suddenly has more play, though not dangerously, and there is a definite ratteling throughout the frame of the front end with road bumps (feeling and sounding much like a broken shocck).
If caught early on, the bushing can be replaced. In the states, often a mechanic will try to replace the entire arm at much more cost to you. (I nievely paid $85.00 US to have mine replaced and installed.)
Change the damn fuel filter!
This should be the first thing you do. A clogged filter in a carbureted model is marked by a lacof power in third gear at about 5000 rpm ( +/- one gear & 1000 rpm).
Change the plugs- Or at least inspect them.
Oh there's plenty more, and nearly all easily remedied or avoided by simple maintainance.
Someone else?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: sydney
thanks guys!
thanks sterling thats helpful man
i heard somewhere ur supposed 2 let a rotary idle for a bit before u turn it off or something?
anythin else i should know in order 2 keep my rx7 alive?
thanks sterling thats helpful man
i heard somewhere ur supposed 2 let a rotary idle for a bit before u turn it off or something?
anythin else i should know in order 2 keep my rx7 alive?
