1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

carburetor newb

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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 11:52 PM
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Gerbil is sik's Avatar
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From: Orlando Fl
Arrow carburetor newb

so i brought a 85 rx7 and it has these to hoses going to the carburetor that i think are in the wrong place because i cant put a filter on the carburetor




SEE




what do i do i dont want to drive with out its filter on.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 12:38 AM
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Heh, that's a solution I haven't seen before.

That carb is an aftermarket Holley, and someone did that instead of tapping the float bowls or the manifold for the oil injection. The easiest route is to take 'em off, disable the OMP, and premix. Personally, though, I'd want to add fittings to the manifold and run the lines there.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 12:51 AM
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From: Orlando Fl
one more newb question

how do i do what you just said
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 02:04 AM
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haha well the premix has connections on the carb for that.
im not sure where but mine are hooked up.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 02:51 AM
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From: Yaizu, Japan
^ Huh?

Premix involves mixing two-cycle oil into the gas tank every fill up, typically a 128:1 ratio (1 ounce of two-cycle oil per gallon of gas).

To disable the OMP, you can remove it and make a block-off plate. You can also modify it internally to keep it from pumping oil, but I'm not sure what's involved there.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 06:59 AM
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The lines in the picture are from the oil metering pump (omp). They should be dripping oil into the carb. The rotary engine needs oil injected into the combustion area. Stock carbs have fittings for lines from the omp. If you remove the lines and block off the omp, you will need to add 2 stroke oil to every tank of gas (premix) to make up for the lack of oil injection. Most people drill and tap fittings into the fuel bowls to add oil injection when they install a holley.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 09:17 AM
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That's a very creative use of the choke valve pivot holes.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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what if you just modified the base of the air filter assembly to accept the lines?
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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From: St Joe MO
Best place is to tap an intake runner on each rotor and screw in a 3/8" NPT X 1/8" barb. If you were to feed the lines to the air cleaner, there's a good chance that the oil wouldn't make it to the combustion chamber. Other option is to pre-mix. 1 oz/gal as mentioned above.
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 10:42 PM
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From: Orlando Fl
Originally Posted by K-Tune
what if you just modified the base of the air filter assembly to accept the lines?
You sir are a smart man

-Gets out drill-
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 12:08 AM
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If you go in through the air cleaner, make sure the lines extend into the throat like they do now... oil won't vaporize in the minimal pressure diffs inside the air cleaner. It'll just puddle, and your seals won't get lube.

Considering how crucial oil is to both the apex seals, and for engine lube and heat transfer on these motors, I'm endlessly surprised Mazda didn't feed the OMP from a separate oil reservoir. It's always puzzled me. Sure, taking it from the crankcase is mechanically simpler, but it's so risky since it can run you dry in both places.
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 11:35 AM
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From: Yaizu, Japan
I think the reason they did that is because people aren't used to having to check two oil dipsticks. For people like us, yeah, it would've made a lot more sense to use an external (preferably two-cycle) oil reservoir, but Mazda was designing these cars for the masses.
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 12:13 PM
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I suppose you're right. Still, a transparent oil reservoir would be even easier to check, seems to me.

Of course, then the average slob might not ever pull the dipstick, thinking he'd "checked the oil" by looking at the reservoir.

Dumb people... helping to ruin things for the rest of us since 10 million BC.
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 04:03 PM
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From: St Joe MO
Originally Posted by K-Tune
what if you just modified the base of the air filter assembly to accept the lines?


Originally Posted by Gerbil is sik
You sir are a smart man

-Gets out drill-
Not a good idea. While you're waiting for your engine to grind down the apex seals, brush up on your engine rebuilding skills.
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