yeah my car whooshs too, i searched and found nothing of anyuse except people saying its good or normal...

 

sorry to interfear with your thread man,

 

That's common when you replace the needle assemblies.
You're back to square one (tapping the top), but with a clean slate and reassurance that nothing else should be too awful fucked up in there.

DON'T use a hammer! I use the but of a plastic handled screwdriver.

 

sterling, i tapped it. and yes, TAPPED now it actually idled and ran ok, but the front still fills up. should i have someone tap it while i'm cranking?

 

I'd check the needle & seat again. I've been where you are.

 

check for what? what did you change? lol they were working properly before i put it back together. well, seemed to be. both of them sprung just fine and were set equally. the needles,seat, and springs are all new.

 

The reason why the guy painted the horn was so that in time the paint woud chip off and hopefully you'd bring the carb back to him and he could charge you more for another rebuild.

 

So now the seats are tight? The needles are good, and the float level is set right. Did the seats have a crush washer under them? I hate to do this to ya, but try swapping the needles and seats from one bowl to the other, and lets see if the other bowl starts flooding. Need to narrow this down, your almost there!

 

Remove the airhorn, hold upside down, cap the return line with your thumb, and blow through the inlet. You shouldn't have to hold the floats down, and you should NOT be able to blow throught them at all. If you can, then you have a sealing problem like the tiny crush washer that Carl is reffering to. Unfortunately, if that is the problem, it's because the washer was not seated before tighten-down, and is now mangled and useless.

 

yea, i get off work at 5 today so i'll tinker with it more. i'll probably bust the carb off and switch like you said and check for the crush washers. i gotta be close! HAHAHAHA

 

-Gotta give you alot of credit for not bitching & wingeing like 85% of no-start guys do!
You're a perfect demonstration of persistance; and that will pay off.

 

Zac and the7 are being very dedicated with fixing their problems.

 

aww thanks guys! i'm determined as hell to get this going. i could just easily take it to rotorsports, pay 3 - 400 hundred dollars and be set, but i want to know why everything works. i've learned so damn much. it's pretty awesome. ok, i just got home from work and it cranked right up and idled immediately without using the choke! but, when you rev to about 5500 and up it starts bogging out from too much fuel. the front bowl is still completely full and i tapped while it was running and everything. so i'll pull the carb off again and check it out and do what you two suggested. just have to do it later though, because hurricane isabel is on her way and it's daaaaaamn windy out right now!

 

-A real rotorhead wouldn't let a little bitch like Isabel keep 'em from workin on their rex!
"Oh boo-hoo, It's windy!"

 

aaahahhahaha, well it didnt actually. it's been removed, but i havent torn in to it yet.

 

Well get to work then dammit!

 

Zac, I agrree with what some of the guys have been saying: you're still fighting needle & seat problems or perhaps the clueball who built your carb re-assembled it incorrectlly.

I work at a garage near the UNCC area & would be glad to look at it for you & have a go at it. I've built plenty of RX7 carbs in the past.

PM me or shoot me an email. I work at Interstate Motors on Newell-Hickory Grove Rd.

j.p.

 

satanicmechanic, i pm'd you!