Carb tuning after removing the Rat's nest
03-24-03, 08:11 AM
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Awesome, an empty post. I love these. Okay, here's the deal...
After removing my air pump, rat's nest and AAB valve my car idles at 900-1000 rpm and is pretty uneven at idle. Under load she's fine, though I need to play with the Accel. Pump since she likes to bog now, too. As far as the idle mixture, how do I adjust it and which was should I likely go? Did anyone else's car react the same way to going emissions-free?
After removing my air pump, rat's nest and AAB valve my car idles at 900-1000 rpm and is pretty uneven at idle. Under load she's fine, though I need to play with the Accel. Pump since she likes to bog now, too. As far as the idle mixture, how do I adjust it and which was should I likely go? Did anyone else's car react the same way to going emissions-free?
03-24-03, 04:19 PM
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It is set on the lean side from the factory.
That's why they put that cap on the idle screw, the government does not want your car to run right!
If you free up the exhaust with headers or take the cats off that also tends to lean it out a bit. Pull off the limiter cap and richen (turn it out) 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
That's why they put that cap on the idle screw, the government does not want your car to run right!
If you free up the exhaust with headers or take the cats off that also tends to lean it out a bit. Pull off the limiter cap and richen (turn it out) 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
03-24-03, 09:45 PM
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Am I looking to adjust the idle mixture screw, then? Should I touch air bleeds? One big question (might warrant its own thread) is that I could SWEAR that she's pinging now. Only under light load do I hear what sounds just like preignition from my parents' old Explorer, but maybe 1/3 as loud. I know pinging will kill an FD, but should I worry, and how should I adjust the main jets?
03-25-03, 08:06 AM
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If you just remove the emissions you will not need to change any jets. If your carb and ignition are in good shape, your car should run much better. Preignition is more likely in a lean mixture. That's what bothers me, just pulling the emisions should not do that . That is why I asked how the engine ran before, you could have gunk in the carb, blocking fuel flow. You have not mentioned your exhaust, I hope you are going to remove your cats. If you remove emissions and leave your cats, they can overheat and melt.
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03-25-03, 08:23 AM
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The exhaust is still on for now, as I'm headed to the hot. I'll be in Kuwait in 3 weeks, so I'm doing the easy/cheap/already-bought mods for now. The exhaust will be ditched for a full RB setup when we get back. The car idled smoothly at 600 or 900 all the time (never in between) prior to removing the emissions and never sputtered at all on sudden acceleration. No pinging, either. The fuel pump and filter are new, and are why I got the car cheap. Easy fixes on dead used cars rock. I'm on my 4th tank of MMO, as it just seemed like a good idea with a new used car but everything else is original. I've got a DHLA 50 on the way and a junk 12A to port and assemble, ready for a transplant down the road.
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