My car set for a long time and the carb is all gummed up or so I think it is. I finally got it running but now the carb is giving me problems.
I removed the old gas and changed the completely clogged up fuel filter. Fuel is getting to the carb but it is not going into it.
The car will run if I spray fuel from a bottle in.
After I let the car die, alot of fuel pours in from only the passenger back side of the carb. No fuel goes comes out anywhere else.
I dont know anything at all about carbs.
Is there a way to clean the ports or jets, I guess thats what they are called?

 

I think you need a rebuild.
It sounds like things may have a coat of varnish on the inside.
At the very least, you would probably have to take the top off of it and look inside to see the condition of it.

 

And how hard is that to do.
Im pretty mechanically inclined but have never done any carb work.

 

If there is nothing damaged, then it should be a fairly simple job. Just make sure you take your time, and pay attention to how it comes apart. A lot of the pieces look the same but are not. Depending on how far you strip it down, you could get some things switched around when rebuilding it. Over all though, if you just pull the main sections apart, and spray through it with some carb cleaner until all of the passages allow the cleaner through, you should be fine.

Sterling or Rx7Carl are the carb gurus around here though, so if they say anything that contridicts me, they're right, and I'm wrong.

Hope it helps,
Brian

 

ok
So it comes apart fairly easy then?
Any special tools needed?

 

No special tools that I can remember. I believe that it is held to the manifold with either 12 or 14mm nuts. Two of which are kind of a pain to get to. Other than that, it's all just phillips head screws if I remember correctly.
Just to let you know, don't trust your memory on screw location. Diagram them or lay them out or something. With three of us working on the last one I helped with, it still took a while to get them all back in the proper holes. This is because while they all have the same thread pitch, there are a few different lengths.

Brian

 

thanks for the tips
Might give it a try tommorrow

 

No problem. And good luck, though it won't take much.

Brian

 

There is a link to some helpful tips in my signature.

 

sterling, could you get on aim?

thanks

-greg

 

links are not working
most likely due to the server switch

 

****

 

If I take the top off the carb, do I need a new gasket?
I want to take it off and see if maybe the floats are stuck, which I think they are.

The only place fuel comes out is in the picture I attached....top right. A whole lot of fuel comes out after the engine stops. Whats going on here?
Is that the primary or secondary?
I was also getting a few drops out of the bottom right, but not very much.

 

Probably. From the breif description you gave, it's likely the gasket may tear or stick to the housing.

You might try sraying WD-40 all around the edge of the gasket- inside the airhorn, too.
It may soak it up and become a little more pliable.

 

So basically a 50 50 chance.
Does it sound like a stuck float sterling?
I tried tapping but nothing.
I also tried looking throught the float window and it appears to be empty...hard to tell.

 

In the picture, the rear float bowl looks empty while the front bowl has fuel in it. Did you dump some fuel out? A mirror from a compact (spelling?) works real well to view the rear float bowls.

Are you saying that when you stop the engine, you're seeing fuel dumping into the secondaries (big venturis)? That sounds like float bowl is too full.

If you're also having a problem starting the car, like it won't start unless you dump fuel directly into the carb, that's a different problem. You need to make sure you've replaced all the normal tuneup items - plugs, cap, rotor, make sure you have good plugs, make sure the battery is good enough to spin the engine real well. Make sure starter connections are clean. I'd work on the starting problem before I worry about the fuel dump problem. I don't think the two are related.

Check out this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=162062

 

Your possible problems include:

A float that won't close due to varnish, dried needle tip rubber, or a piece of crap stuck in the seat;
A faulty fuel delivery system;
A blockage in the carburetor inlet screens (there are four);
A disconnected float bowl solenoid;
-and if someone else has messed with it...
Improperly set floats;
Missing needle & seat clips, pins, or springs (sounds alot more complex than it is).

I would love to rebuild your carb for you. But I like to tell people first that it is my opinion that if you can build a model airplane, you can rebuild a Nikki carburetor.

I will help any way I can, but I just checked, and the search function is working again. I strongly suggest you search, because the amount of information you will need to remedy your carburetor ills requires a few pages of background reading on the basics.

 

slash...that pics is not of mine i just found that to use to describe my problem.
sterling....I will take you up on all the hellp I can get from you.
Ok just got back from trying to start the rx and it was a NO go. I am now getting fuel coming in from all 4 of the areas in the carb. Too much now cus it keeps flooding out. After trying to start it I remove the plugs and they are soaked VERY bad.
I'll try reading through old posts now that the search is up and running.
I'll keep you all informed and I will be asking alot more questions. Thansk for the responses guys!

 

Are you still using a stock pump? And do you have the retun line still attached? Sounds like stuck/bad needle valves. You could try taking the top off the carb and cleaning them and re-checking the float levels. Do you have any manuals for the car? Haynes. Mazda shop manual?

Also, is the vent solenoid hooked up and working? (its the one wire solenoid, drivers [USA] side of the carb right where the fuel lines look like they cross.) WIth the key in the on/run position, connect and disconnect etc the one wire, it should make a clicking noise, indicating that its working.

 

Hey RX-7Carl....everything is stock.
And yes I have a manuals for it.
The vent selenoid is hooked up and it does make the clicking noise.
I think I might look into a rebuild kit. What comes with a rebuild kit and roughly what are they worth?
I also have an old carb from my 82 engine. I wonder if it might be better to try to put that on and see if it would work, if it is a direct fit onto my 83 engine.

 

I believe that the 82 carb would fit, but you should be able to get a rebuild kit complete with gaskets and needles/seats for roughly $35 USD.

Brian

 

Start by just taking off the top and cleaning the needles and seats before you go nuts with it. A total rebuild wont hurt, but might be un-necessary. Yes all the Nikkis from 79-85 will interchange, just minor differences.

And as an FYI- Dont get a Beck Arnely kit when you get a rebuild kit. They dont come with new needles and seats. Cheap bastards!

 

I shouldn't even admit this, but it sounds a lot like what I saw when I forgot to put the floats back on. I had fuel coming out everywhere.

 

Ok, talked me into it.
I'll take off the top first, alot easier too.
Thanks for the help guys, I'll keep you updated.