ok so i bought this carb... and swapped it out with my old one... lots of drama about that with linkage and crap broken... but anyway.. my car wont start any more unless i dont tap the gas pedal but barely pull the choke out, i have play around with it then it starts and dies over and over then finally starts and can play with the choke to keep her running... WTF? i never had this prob with my old carb.. what is the deal with this one... when i bought it it was supossed to be rebuilt and it has meck secs. any help would be awesome!
thanks

 

What is the fuel level at in the sight glasses when it's running?
Is the vent solenoid hooked up?

 

whoa there carb god im just new guy at this if you could describe these to me that would be amazing thanks

 

by the way i emailed you the other day about a rebuild

 

if you look at the picture of the carbs above, the one on the left has a view of the vent solenoid , above the "the" word is its connector,,,and the sight glass is on the front center of carb and also on the rear center, fuel level can be seen thru the glass there,,,

 

i still need some hlp on this please... it takes me at least 5 mins to start my car in the mornings and nights. i dont want to kill my baterey and alternator.. (if this would .. lol..) its just frustrating... i looked at the carb and the connector is connected... i could not find the sight glass. please help. thanks

 

The sight glasses are dead center in the front and rear of the carb. If you just had a rebuild, they should be cleaned off - they're actual glass. With a flashlight you should be able to see fuel in the bowl, running midway across the glass.

The rear one is a bitch to see. You'll need a small mirror to see it...

You say you're new, so take no offense - but have you adjusted the carb at all (idle mixture, idle speed, etc.)?

 

yea, i have. the whole 3-3.5 turn out...done that. ill check it ou twhen my car inst covered in ice. thanks

 

... and this doesn't come from a certified mechanic...

But if you've replaced the carb, and are having the same type of problems, you may need to go down the line. Are you comfortable with the condition of the plugs, plug wires, timing, etc.? Those will make a huge difference in the way your car starts and runs...

The more details on what you've checked and know is OK, will help the Carb Gods...

Good luck!

p.s. Ice sucks - we're sitting in it here, too.

 

ok well all has been replaced, ngk plugs and wires. havnt messed with timing, but i didnt touch the timing and the car ran fine befor i swapped them(carb) out... i cant put the old one on there cause i took the linkage off it to put on the new one... and that was a huge pain in the ***..i mean i guess i could. but i really dont want to.

 

O.k.- let's go over this again.
First, you need to explain how she starts with consistancy. Figure out the only way it starts when cold, and tell us.
Tell us what it idles at (if it will at all on it's own) and if it can't, then what's the lowest RPMs you can keep her running at without the choke on.

-These are always very important details when trying to diagnose a carb problem.

Take the cover off the air filter canister and peek down the primary side (driver's side) and operate the linkage by hand (engine can be off).
The accelerator pump nozzels sticking out should be giving a nice even squirt.

Next, check the timing of the secondaries.
You say it has mechanical secondaries. Someone had to have done that, so they may have left a piece of linkage that is snagging on other linkage.
-Or, the linkages may be really bent up, and the secondaries are opening too soon and finishing their stroke to WOT (wide open throttle) while leaving the primaries not open all the way.
Soooo, you want to operate the linkage while useing a flashlight, and peek down there to make sure that both sets of valves are STRAIGHT up and down.
look at the linkage on the fire-wall side as you operate the throttle by hand to be sure nothing is binding, too.

Then turn your attention to the other end of the carb...Is the vacuum box removed from the carb? It does'nt have to be for mechanical secondaries, but the LINKAGE DOES!

All this business with the secondaries has nothing to do with your no-start problem. But you want to be sure it's all in order.
What it could have to do with is some linkage getting snagged by the fast-idle link on the choke set-up. If your fast-idle lever is snagging a piece of linkage that is in turn craking your secondaries open- even just a hair-, your idle will be messed up.

So check these things, and if they are all good, then you are completely fucked and probly blew your engine.

(Naw- I'm jess kiddin! )

 

lol nice... ok to start.... in the morning, i used to have to just pump the gas a few times pull the choke out ...and BAM!!starts right up stays at about 3k till warm then drops down to 750rpms..... ok so now with new carb installed takes about 10 - 15 times( not pumps but this whole presedure) of... pumping the gas a few times and barley pulling the choke..... starts to just about turn over and then.. dies.... and it seems that each time i turn off the ignition ,pump ,turn; if i give it any gas or pull the choke too much it turns right off.... but if i give just a bit it will go to about 2k (rpms) and then die ect.... about the 10th ish time i can sometimes give just the right amount of presure either on the choke or the gas pedal get it to start and idle at about 3k pull the choke out andi t goes up to 4k, but i push it in just a bit to get it to 3k.... and then drive after it drops down again to about 750 rpms. and it pretty much idels smoothly, except the rpms stay at about 1k after running it and a few seconds later they drop to 750. as did my old carb. as far as the linkage... when i got the carb all the linkage was bent.. and there was one that was completely broken off. so i took off all and took apart mine and put it on the new one... i used my buddies old carb that he ironicly is sending to you.. lol... so i got that on and swapped out. and i pulled i think what was the dashpot off mine on to the new one cause that too was bent up. and i took another thing* off my carb and put it on the new one it didnt have that at all... im guessing that was the vacume... but i put that on after the carb was installed (its on the passanger side of the car on the side of the carb.) like i said ill check these things out after the ice and snow is not covering my poor 7. thanks again everyone soory for the long *** post. hope this helps you help me figure out my prob...lol.... if all else fails... im sending you my other carb.

 

Well hell- In that case, go and get yerself a big claw hammer, and smack the linkage really hard.
-Should fix it right up!
(Just don't send that one to me if you do! )

 

ok so here are the pics of the .. "thingies" that im talking about maybe you can help bring some insite of what they are.




hopes this help, if it works. my girlfriend showed me how to do this and i dont think i quite remember. lol.

 

nice it worked. ok so in the first two pics. those are what i had to take off my old carb and pu t on the new .. "rebuilt" carb... and the last pic is the linkage that was completley broken off... (had to replace all of those too from my old carb...(sterling can i still send you my carb with all of these parts missing? since they are on the carb that is in my car?)
aw my kitten wanted to get in the pics. haha. she rocks!

 

Your original problem is an over rich condition (evident by having to start it by not tapping the gas pedal [less fuel] and almost no choke [more air]. It sounds like your getting extra/too much fuel on startup. Before you start it tomorrow, pop the airbox cover off and look down in the carb throat and see if theres fuel in the barrels. You may have fuel dumped into the carb after shutdown.

Answers to your pics. In order.
The right pic is pointing to the throttle return spring bracket, the left is to the dashpot [it slows the closing of the throttle when you let your foot off the pedal to prevent afterfiring/flames in the exhaust].

Thats the throttle opener. Its purpose is to bump up the idle when the A/C is on so the engine doesnt drop RPM's when its on.


Thats the conection for the hot start assist cable.

 

wrong name. this is my girls name.

 

ok so the first pic to the right is the dashpot and i thought thats what it was... to the right.. i was pointing to what is supossed to go there ... and the hot start assist connection was broken off when the carb arrived at my door, not in the box... thanks for your help!!!!! the ice has melted im going to work on her tomorrow.. (although robert from rotaryshack said my car was way lean....) but tonight after work i got in an ddidnt pump the gas and it almost started i pumped it once and it started and idled at like 300rpms without the choke out...

 

No, the first pic on the right is where the Anti afterburn valve bolts to. The LEFT is the dashpot.

 

sorry thats what i meant.....

 

ok so i looked at the sight glass and its half way, im not sure where the vacume box is... i can tell you after riding in fbII's car with his mech secs. i can feel them open much more then i can feel mine. in fact i really dont feel much of a diff. with mine at all ... but anyway i messed with the mixture screw got it 3.5 turns out and i go tto me idle screw and it was backed out so far the it took like 4 turns in to even make a difference in my idle!! WTF? today i will check to see when the secondaries are opening. thanks alot guys!!!

 

The vacuum box is in your first pic, far right side. Actually half of it is, the pic cuts off the other half. Cant miss it now!

You shouldnt feel vacuum secondaries "kick in". They should be seamless and gradually open as demand increase.

 

yea thats what i was saying i hae mech secs. and i dont feel them..."kick in" and that helps a billion im going to run out and check if its there or not... ill keep ya updated.

 

yep still there..... i guess ill get that outa there... that guy sucks!...

 

You can make mech secs and not remove the box. Its just a matter of tying the linkage together with a piece of wire.