MWMburton

so my secondaries are not functioning. i can only go like 60. i also have a small fuel leak so i was thinking that a fuel line could be leaking and thats what is making the secondaries not kick in. but theyre vaccum driven so i dont know if that would have anything to do with it. also i belive my coil packs r leaking a spark. how can i trouble shoot this problem i idle at like 200 so thats why i thought it could be a vaccum leak. help!!!

djessence

so did you check for vacuum leaks?

tallbozo

iTrader: (5)

Give RW-7 (robert) a call...I had a similar issue of flooding and rebuild my carb and changed it to mechanical secondaries and its been so much fun....well worth the money if you just get a hold of him.

Kentetsu

Does it seem to go slower, the more you press the gas pedal? If so, then possibly clogged jets...

MWMburton

i looked around for vaccum leaks but not very well id say. but i took it to a buddy of mine who had a r100 n a repu n has worked on rotories for quite a while. he thought it was the linkage that actually engages the secondaries sliped off but it wasnt that, he did adjust it. he also recommened spraying it down w/ carb cleaner because he thought it may have been gummed up. but a interesting side note is that the lines to my omp r definatly leaking like a f#(*$*$*@ sieve so gotta find lines for those n they also heard the arcing of my coil packs so idk what to do bout those. i wonder is s4 coil packs will work in that or what?

also when he did adjust the leaver to the secondaries it did make a small difference while driving, i think my secondaries are slightly kicking in.

it sometimes seems like its going slower if i floor it but that could just because im flooding it, i fear that since the secondaries aren't opening if i floor it the motor could hit fuel cut n then id be looking for another 12a

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Fuel cut in a 12A? Never heard of such without fuel injection. If the coils are arcing, replace them. If the coil wires are arcing, replace them. Sorry man but this is just some common sense stuff. S4 Coils won't be a direct swap

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

wow!!! no such thing as fuel cut unless your fuel injected...on top of that s4 coil packs are not a direct swap some work needs to be put into them..

MWMburton

you guys dont think a 12a could starve itself of fuel when the secondaries dont kick in. . . .? what happens at 6k when ur secondaries dont kick in and ur producing zero power? not nessicarily fuel cut but semi simillar. anyway, i have one coil local and the other on its way from seattle over niting it. coil leads may be a lil hard to track down but im pretty sure its the coil itself arcing. i believe the arcing is what is causing my terrible idel and very delayed pedal response. its common sense stuff but this is my first rotary n im afraid when something goes wrong, so many bad things go through my head when i dont get enough power to the ground or if theres a small oil leak. just like any first timer, u all were there at one point.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

If there's no secondaries it's just really slow and revvs for nothing. But if it feels like there's no power there, there's no reason to rev it there

MWMburton

my secondaries work its just an ignition problem at this point, if my coils were good then i would actually feel some power n it would rev signifigantly faster

Sterling

Is your tach bouncing at all? Usually with an arcing problem you have tch trouble.
Have you used a timing light? This will tell you if a transistor has been fried.
You have to understand that these guys need you to explain things in your own terms as thoroughly as possible. Don't speculate. You used the phrase "fuel-cut" which is known as a fulie term, not a carb term.
Everybody says their secondaries aren't working. truth is, there are plenty of things that can make you think that, but there's no way for you to know that, and it's highly (HIGHLY) unlikely that they "won't" function. They may indeed not be opening, but it would be purely the result of another problem.
You must troubleshoot the carburetor. But before you do so, you must get your ignition in order so as not to complicate and confuse the real cause of your troubles.
Then you MUST proceed in a very, VERY methodical method, following the fuel all the way from the tank, through the carb, and out the exhaust.
And you must give all information in as methodically and orderly a manner as possible.
For all we know, your cats could be plugged.

MWMburton

tach's not bouncing, but the coils didnt really do much at first but after i drove it a while the idle settled down n when back to normal. thinkin the way the car is acting it could either be the carb itself, which im pretty sure its not. fuel filter which may be really really old and or the cat which undoubtetly is old n probably clogged. the car not sputters or at a certain rpm n a certain pedal depression will just sit there making zero power. im going to have someone weld one my new cat n i think thats really going to help. at least i hope. if you guys couldnt tell i am no wiz at diagnosis, i pretty much need to restore this car anyway so im pretty much throwin parts at it lol

Sterling

Change your fuel filter.

MWMburton

lol

so im pretty sure since my omp lines r broke i should be premixing correct, im pretty sure right

MWMburton

changed the filter, will post up how it drives tomorrow also the cat will be replaced as well as the o2 sensor

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

There is no O2 Sensor

MWMburton

this would make sense because its a carbuerated car. idk if u say so i guess but they list one for the car at auto part stores n i took it to a midas n he was talkin bout o2 sensor on my car like he knew exactly what was up. i dont understand why every major auto part store would list an o2 sensor for the car n there is not one one it.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Same way they list parts that aren't the right part for common vehicles. I work at AutoZone and I see it everyday. With there being no engine computer, an O2 Sensor is useless because there is nothing to analize it's output

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Midas doesn't know **** about engines, much less a Rotary engine. They are a brake and exhaust shop at best. Get yourself a shop manual and start doing the work yourself, or it's going to cost you a fortune every time you want to have work done. So far I've only ever had work done at a shop twice. Alignment and axle replacement. Everything else I do myself. It may take a while longer but it's the only way to learn these cars.

Also check your state/county laws. You may not need to have your car emissions tested so instead of shelling out money for a catalytic converter you could just go with a straight pipe and grab a few more HP. You can take the car to Midas for that. Also if your OMP lines are broken, get them fixed ASAP, start premixing or DO NOT drive your car. Without those your starving the internals of the engine of oil. No oil = bad, bad, bad.... ****** bad. That's a good start to a blown motor.

Good luck

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

No OMP doesn't mean starving the engine internals of oil, it means there's no lubrication and extra cooling for the rotors which, yes, will toast the motor

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Well the rotors ARE the engine internals aren't they? I know the oil still squirts through the e-shaft but still, it will eat your motor if your not getting oil, and that's what was important about my statement.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

I know, I'm being a picky ******* LOL. You're technically not starving the internals of oil since the oil pump shouldn't ever fail but it is a necesity

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

For the record, the 84/85 12A cars do have a sensor in the exhaust that looks just like an O2 sensor. I can see how the Midas guy could mistake it as one. It is a thermoswitch and sends a signal to your emissions control unit with the exhaust is above a certian temperature (depends if the car is manual or auto).

Vashner

Shutter valve butterfly could be stuck closed too (wild guess doubt it). Look to see if it's pulling air (Mazdatrix shutter valve guide).

MWMburton

so i said **** u to midas, 260 for a muffler n install was a lil too rich for my blood. bought the right cat for under fifty bucks n threw it in at an exhaust shop for 85 out the door. passed emisions but failed sound test ( 92 decibels) i was at 95.9. in oregon if ur car is a 74 or older u dont need to run emissions anything else is fair game unless ur in a county w/ no emisions testing site; then ur exempt.

i do everything myself on my car. the only things i dont do are welding exhaust parts on cuz i dont have a welder, if i did i would. i'll eventually rebuild the rearend myself w/ miata third member n all that good stuff.

ive heard of ppl running 2 cylce oil to premix, is this the stuff i need and is 16-18 oz. the right amount per tank? what oil should i use instead?

also still getting a really bad jitter out of the car at a certain rpm, somewhere around 3 w/ a lil under half throttle.