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First time rebuilding an 84/85 carb.
After 15 trials this is where I'm at.
Are these acceptable levels, or should I raise up the rear (left side) a bit?
Two days ago I had everything put back where it should be. But it was raining and I wanted to be outside for the first startup.
Yesterday outside I started it up. Lots of initial smoke as it was burning off all the gas that went in while not really running.
After it warmed up and settled down I was able to set the mix and idle speed. Later I took it around the block (20 minute drive). I did not detect the sutter it had before when holding the RPM at 3000 and 3500. The secondaries were working again as they once did.
First time rebuilding an 84/85 carb.
After 15 trials this is where I'm at.
Are these acceptable levels, or should I raise up the rear (left side) a bit?
man i wish my carb was that level right now.. it's flooding out of nowhere to where it's undrivable and makes the whole air stings.. how was your carb before the rebuild?
man i wish my carb was that level right now.. it's flooding out of nowhere to where it's undrivable and makes the whole air stings.. how was your carb before the rebuild?
Before the rebuild it acted like it was being starved for gas, holding the RPM at 3500 in 3rd it would stutter, not very smooth running. I had already replaced the fuel filter, partially drained the gas tank, and tested the fuel pump for pressure and output.
I actually was rebuilding an 84 and 85 combination. I finally used the 84 throttle body, the 85 air horn and main body, and mostly 84 internal and external parts.
I had excessive flooding on the first rebuild, gas was flowing along the top of the main body. I took it apart and tried different combinations of needles/seats and floats. I noticed the 85 seats matched the ones in the rebuild kits which you are warned not to use the rebuild seats and needles, but use the original. My 84 were original so I went with them and was able to adjust the floats with predictable outcomes. With the 85 needles and seats sometimes the rear bowl would flood, sometimes the front.
I am no expert as this was my first ever carb rebuild. However, from my results it sounds like the needle or needles are not closing. It might be gunk or it might be a saturated float not floating, or something else. Early on in the testing process I took the carb out, removed and cleaned all the jets and air bleeds, cleaned and blew out all the passageways. Reassembled and continued.
After the rebuild the stutter was gone, the secondaries kicked in as they should, I got to 6500 RPM much quicker going up the same hill, and now it does not stink after a drive. Pulled in the garage I now only smell a hot engine. Before I had to leave the garage door open more than an hour to keep the smell out of the house.
When going through the testing cycles for the float, I only had the bear essentials assembled. The sequence with the fuel pump jumped, was:
1. Turn the key on for 5 seconds at a time and check the float levels, repeat until too over full or not full enough. Take pictures of levels for reference.
2. Remove gas lines
3. Remove all 7 air horn bolts, and center bolt
4. Lift off air horn and tip to drain out remaining gas
5. Turn air horn upside down on workbench to dry out
6. Suck the gas out of bowls. I used a big syringe.
7. Next day, make additional adjustments to the floats
8. Reassemble air horn onto main body
9. Goto step 1 above
Image shows testing state of carb. I did not run the engine, just the fuel pump. Look in the FSM on the section for testing the fuel pump for jumping the pump.
Or, stuck floats causing your flooding.
Link to video with quick fix for a stuck float in the first minute 10 seconds:
Thank you! My car was running extremely rich out of nowhere and I was losing my mind becuase I had high rpm problem before that's now fixed to then not high enough rpm because too much fuel. I was almost overthinking until i realized i havent checked my float levels and sure enough the front was FULL. I was able to do the adjustments today and those tiny little metals where the floats clip on was also a culprit to the float not returning back to normal.. crazy how something so small can be so crucial!
I was able to adjust the floats per fsm specs and the first test it was a bit over, so had to adjust the front, then second test it's finally within that line marker.
Thanks for your tip! Because if i hadnt read your reply i probably wouldve put everything back in - test- take everything back out- test - repeat lol
Thank you! My car was running extremely rich out of nowhere and I was losing my mind becuase I had high rpm problem before that's now fixed to then not high enough rpm because too much fuel. I was almost overthinking until i realized i havent checked my float levels and sure enough the front was FULL. I was able to do the adjustments today and those tiny little metals where the floats clip on was also a culprit to the float not returning back to normal.. crazy how something so small can be so crucial!
I was able to adjust the floats per fsm specs and the first test it was a bit over, so had to adjust the front, then second test it's finally within that line marker.
Thanks for your tip! Because if i hadnt read your reply i probably wouldve put everything back in - test- take everything back out- test - repeat lol
