1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

car surging/carb issues?

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Old May 4, 2007 | 07:21 PM
  #1  
96scoob's Avatar
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From: Bloomington IN,
car surging/carb issues?

I just purchased this 1980 RX7 with 27000 miles ago with a busted oil cooler. Fixed that but now i have issues with the car surging. I know its running rich but i can open it up in first through second but when i hit third like halfway the revs she surg really bad. Also when im cruising in 4th or 5th and a quarter throttle or more shell surge. It sometimes is bad enough to stall the car out. She does backfire when shes not completely warm and i know the exhaust is rather rough. Once warm it doesnt back fire. But the car does idle perfect and theres no smoke. Also she has an oil leak by the oil line into the block by the banjo bolt. I put the washers on it and keep checing the torque on it after i replaced the oil cooler. I cant say its that thoug because it looks like there is fresh oil all along the side of the block. Any help would be great. Thx guys.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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XLR8's Avatar
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From: NJ
Do a tune-up...(plugs, wires,cap,rotor,fuel filter)..and rebuild your carb. It's not hard and will cost you about $50 for the kit and a haynes manual. Just take your time and lay everything out. The manual will walk you through taking everything apart. After that you just take all the jets out, clean them and clean all the passages in the carb, and reassemble.

Your oil leak sounds like it is comming from the bottom of your oil cooler. Where the oil cooler meets the pedastol there are 2 o-rings. They get rotted over time and need replacing. If that doesn't do it then just get some degreaser, clean the crap out of that side and then drive it. The leak should be apparent.

Good luck.

Last edited by XLR8; May 4, 2007 at 09:02 PM.
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Old May 4, 2007 | 10:37 PM
  #3  
96scoob's Avatar
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From: Bloomington IN,
Thx buddy that price is in the right area for me since im not looking to spend too much. Just kinda of an ot ? what do you think an 80 rx7 with 27000 miles which is a little rough around the edges would sell for. The reason is im leaving for basic training in 2 months and i have nowhere to store it unfortunaetly otherwise id keep it. Thx again.
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Old May 7, 2007 | 09:05 AM
  #4  
Wodihor's Avatar
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From: Atlanta
Same thing that mine is doing. Good thing I read before posting. One other thing that I would also check is the fuel filter. I have had to change mine several time because the car had sat before I got it. I still see some rust inside where the gas cap goes. Who knows what the inside looks like.

But I'm sure it is time to just tear down everything on the drive side of the motor and replace all of the gaskets and seals. Clean it up real good and see if I still have a leak.

As for the fuel problem when I touch the gas from idle it chokes down and then comes to life. When running it hard, 1st is fine 2nd at 5k rpms it decides to choke out of me. I figured fuel deliverance problems, stuck float or what ever. So I have to agree with a carb rebuild there.

Speaking of carbs. Where is the best place to get the kit. One kit better than another or would the local autozone or o'relly's be ok just as well.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 02:48 AM
  #5  
7aull's Avatar
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From: Arizona
Hi
-as suggested, easy $2 swap out of the fuel filter might solve your surging, but I doubt it. A 26 yr old car with only 27000 miles means it has sat around a LOT - and that is very bad for a car unless correctly prepped for long-term storage. More likely your fuel tank is rusty or gunked up with "dead" gas residue or BOTH. That's why it idles OK - no demand for gas, but when more gas is needed the tank isn't letting it thru. It means pulling the tank, taking it to a good rad shop for a chem dunk/cleaning ($65-ish) then sealing insides of the tank up yourself with a product like POR15(.com)'s Tank sealer kit, which basically coats the insides of the tank to prevent anything from shedding off and plugging your system up again. I know all this cause I went thru with it on my 80 SA last year.


-Oil leak is likely from same storage issues - seals have dried out and are now leaking. Since the banjo bolt on the rear oil cooler are copper/metal rather than gasket material, I am a bit surprised they are leaking. Over torquing will NOT fix this! Are you sure its not oil leaking from up on the block, draining onto the bolt? Mine does just that, having a infamous-but-common o-ring-between-housings-seepage. No cure for that one but a rebuild, tho most are minor enough to just keep cleaning up and topping the oil (at least, in my case). XLR8 I believe mistakenly thinks you have an oil cooler mounted under the OIL FILTER, which is why he is advising changing the o-rings on the oil FILTER pedestal. You can still do that ($1 worth of o-rings) but this does not address the oil COOLER leak on an 80SA, since the actual cooler is under the RAD.
-re: value of the car. An SA "rough around the edges" is a pretty vague description. Post a few pics if you want any kind of accurate assesment from us.
Good luck
Neat cars

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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