Car not starting no power (need help asap)
01-24-05, 02:18 PM
#1
Car not starting no power (need help asap)
this is what happened .... by batter was dying off, and i couldn't start the car ... so i asked my dad to give me a boost before he took off to work ... meanwhile i was inside dressing to go help him out ... when i got out there, and tryied cranking the car to start i had no power what so ever not even the clock or any electronic device would work ... so i thought it completely died and maybe there wasn't any good connect outside ... when i looked at the cables my dad has the wires reversed on my car (grrrr) so now it won't do anything at all, i tried disconnecting the battery and just hook up the wires thinking that maybe the battery is making things worse after being installed backwards still not a single zit of power... then i checked fuses under the dash and things like the starter fuse was good... what would of gone bad???? i need to use the car
01-24-05, 02:49 PM
#2
It is most likely the Fuseable links. It is the brown box that says Head Main Retractor on it. You can replace those with a fuse instead of a fusible link. Available at auto parts store. I dont have a pic. Its the BIG ones. Not the big wafer fuses, the other ones. I know this isnt helping. Hopefully someone else can get you a pic.
Edit: You need to replace the "Main" (center I believe) one
Edit: You need to replace the "Main" (center I believe) one
01-24-05, 03:19 PM
#6
If you have a voltmeter, test to see if you have 12 volts going through it by placing a probe (the needle things) on each side of where the fusible link itself (the wire thingy). You should have 12 volts roughly when battery is hooked up correctly. If it reads zero, then the link is toasted and needs to be replaced. I will search for that pic. I know it is posted here.
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01-24-05, 03:31 PM
#8
hmm, not sure. Maybe a small lightbulb? Maybe one out of a flashlight? here are the fuses that plug right in and replace the links.
The fuses you will need are 2 - 30 amp and 1 - 60 amp. They go like this:
30-60-30. You SHOULD only have to replace the middle one (main) which is the 60 amp one. These cost about 4 or 5 USD I think so they are kind of expensive but if they blow you can at least look at them and see if they are blown (for the possible next time). Good luck.
The fuses you will need are 2 - 30 amp and 1 - 60 amp. They go like this:
30-60-30. You SHOULD only have to replace the middle one (main) which is the 60 amp one. These cost about 4 or 5 USD I think so they are kind of expensive but if they blow you can at least look at them and see if they are blown (for the possible next time). Good luck.
01-24-05, 04:05 PM
#13
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
What Ian's trying to say is that your FB has a Fusible Link block located on the driver's side strut tower toward the front; on the battery side.
This Fusible Link box contains several pieces of wire loop which allow for high resistance on initial load, followed by a 'fuse' effect under load. The respective Links are for MAIN engine electronics and ignition, HEAD light retractor motors, and others depending on what model FB you have. Whenever you swap out Fusible Links - YOU MUST USE THE RIGHT LINK, and conversely; YOU MUST NOT USE REGULAR WIRE!
The Fusible Links are made of a special wire that will burn through at specific amperage draw - if you use standard wire, you are heading for an engine fire!!
So, when your Dad hooked up the jump battery backwards, he fried the MAIN Fusible Link, and it will need to be replaced before you'll get anything out of that engine's electronics. Best place to find Fusible Links; www.mazdatrix.com And be sure to get the right ones - there are Black ones, Green ones, and Brown ones, which should not be interchanged.
Once you replace the Fusible Link, give it a go again. Report back with results,
(oh, and BTW, tell your Dad not to touch your car anymore!)
This Fusible Link box contains several pieces of wire loop which allow for high resistance on initial load, followed by a 'fuse' effect under load. The respective Links are for MAIN engine electronics and ignition, HEAD light retractor motors, and others depending on what model FB you have. Whenever you swap out Fusible Links - YOU MUST USE THE RIGHT LINK, and conversely; YOU MUST NOT USE REGULAR WIRE!
The Fusible Links are made of a special wire that will burn through at specific amperage draw - if you use standard wire, you are heading for an engine fire!!
So, when your Dad hooked up the jump battery backwards, he fried the MAIN Fusible Link, and it will need to be replaced before you'll get anything out of that engine's electronics. Best place to find Fusible Links; www.mazdatrix.com And be sure to get the right ones - there are Black ones, Green ones, and Brown ones, which should not be interchanged.
Once you replace the Fusible Link, give it a go again. Report back with results,
(oh, and BTW, tell your Dad not to touch your car anymore!)
01-24-05, 04:05 PM
#14
yes you are looking at the right thing. I guess you must have the 13B as it seems there are only 2 wires and not 3. Whichever one says main should be the one you need to replace. The other one says injector or somethign like that I think. I could be wrong. I have 12A so there are 3 wires.
01-24-05, 04:09 PM
#16
i do have 3 wires there... but they're not showing up good .. i have a 12 gsl ... i want to buy the thing today ... not wait for it from the internet.. so how does the fuseable links that you sent me hook up to the old setup
if you look closely you'll see a black wire under the white one in the picture
if you look closely you'll see a black wire under the white one in the picture
Last edited by dj55b; 01-24-05 at 04:11 PM.
01-24-05, 04:20 PM
#18
whipmebeatmewankelmeoff
what I have done in a pinch with them is remove the braided covering exposing the actual link wire then twisted the 2 ends together. If this is done so there's atleast some wire not twisted it will still fuse but if you twist it down to the connectors something else will melt (not good).
01-24-05, 04:25 PM
#19
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Well, without doing some wiring yourself, you won't be able to get those 'blocks' to install where a Fusible Link was located.
I'd order them online, unless you want to dig into that project yourself. In the meantime, strip the cloth covering from the burned link and twist the metal link back together (like a twist-tie on a loaf of bread). This will conduct enough current for you to be sure that's the problem.
Reply back, when able,
I'd order them online, unless you want to dig into that project yourself. In the meantime, strip the cloth covering from the burned link and twist the metal link back together (like a twist-tie on a loaf of bread). This will conduct enough current for you to be sure that's the problem.
Reply back, when able,
01-24-05, 05:11 PM
#24
back again ... so that half worked "i think" the engine work .... but half of the electrical stuff doesn't, could of the other fuseable links be done too ... they didn't fall apart when i twisted them like i did with the main one ... this is what doesn't work:
all lights (in and out except dashboard lights)
wipers
and thats about it .... headlight motor work but not the lights
all lights (in and out except dashboard lights)
wipers
and thats about it .... headlight motor work but not the lights