and rotor13b ive checked the spark plugs they are fine, how ever they are not ngk's im not sure exactly what they are but is it possible they arnt hot enough with my some what low compression that they arent combusting?

 

Here is what you do


Get new Plugs. NGK BR8EQ14

Check and make sure your plug wires have 0 Crousoun on them check your Cap and Rotor Also.

Now pour a bit of ATF, MMO, or 5w-30 down the carb.
Pull the Old plugs.
Spin the engine over for a count of 5.
Put in the New Plugs.

Charge the Battery. I dont care if you think it is charged, Do it again.
Get a spare Battery, Or Car to jump From, Or Jumper Box, or Bat Charger with 200 or so Amp start. I say the last one is best.

Connect the spare, charger whatever.

Now try to start it again.

Best if you do this when the day is as hot as it can get.


This all assumes that you really checked the Compression. Put your finger over the hole and make sure you have 3 puffs.

Also assumes that you have Fuel and Spark.

 

They may look fine, But fuel gets up into the porcelain and can cause the spark to not be strong enough to sufficiently light off the combustion cycle. Your statement of you can see exhaust coming out the back proves that it's trying to burn, Just not enough. A new set of plugs will have you back on the road in no time.

 

we weve tested them and they work fine.. my dad was out side cranking it, and i noticed what i thought to be gas spray coming out of the carb, when i looked closer to my heart dropd and i saw it was accually smoke, coming from some were around the rats nest/ but looked like it was from under the fire wall~ WTF was this smoke from, because i think i saw the same stuff the day it stoped working, i heard some poping and cracking today WTF IS THIS SMOKE AND WHAT WAS THE POPING NOISE~!!

 

bump

 

That could just be an exhaust leak, but i would check all the hoses around that area just to be sure. There is something in the Ratsnest that takes the moisture out ot the oil (not sure what it's called, but someone here probably does) that could be the problem there. As far as the spark plugs go, I don't really know to much about those, so your better off listening to some of these guys. (One of them, I'm think, is a mechanic)

 

What did the smoke smell like? Maybe the wiring on your starter is torched. Not sure what else would be getting hot enough to burn on a non starting car. Also, I still think your timing may be out. If you have spark, and gas, and compression, you should at least be getting something back for your efforts. Its a pain, but find the threads that tell you how to verify that your front pulley is lined up correctly, then check your timing. One other thing, if you don't know what kind of plugs you currently have, get them the hell out of your rotary! Run nothing but NGK for best results.

 

well.. as far as my hard headed father says, the plugs i have in right now, are just as good as ngk, i think i remeber seeing autolight or something of that sort on them.. and what threads would u be talking about>? and it might just be me, but my distributor is harder then hell to adjust... the smoke smells kinda like unburnt gas/the normal winter exaust.. if u know what i mean, and some mmo.. i dont get it, that stuff smells like methnol.. lol~ maybe thats the mystery to that stuff right there..?

 

Dude, if you have non NGK plugs, that's half your problem. On my old T2, I bought the top of the line platinum Champion plugs, and they **** the bed after a month.

There is NO SUBSTITUTE for NGKs. Trust me on this.

NGK or nothing.

 

ok, well im going to the store myself tomorow, some how.. does any one know the exact numbers on the correct ngk's that i should purchase?

can u think of any other things that could be wrong?

 

Do this. Those are the plugs you need.

Do not do anything else until you do this.

 

and does any one know what exact voltage is needed for a start
my battery is around 12.30
and when i crank on it it goes down to 10.49, thats with 2 batterys hooked up to it and a voltage producer.. so other then jumping it i dont have ne idea how to raise this more... and its currently impossible for me to jump it seeing that were its parked its about 100 feet from the closest car..

 

Got to argue on those plugs, I have found Nippondenso 25s to be best they are just a fraction cooler and last equally as long, and I was always a NGK fan until I found the Denso's to work marginally better.

 

aussie were do u happen to live by.. not sure were convoy is? close to cleveland ne chance>? with my luck thatll be a no, prolly down by cinci.. if this is true were could u get the nippondenso plugs at.? any one else have any say? right now i think i may just get the hotest plugs i can find.. but im not sure..

 

Yeah I am a fair way, by Ft Wayne IN, just off US30 west of Lima, Please listen to these guys autolite plugs are useless on a RX7, check your leads and rotor cap all easy and cheap fixes.

these and all cars only work by combining air fuel and gas, one has to be wrong for it not to run, you stated your gas is good, air can't be the problem so it must be spark.

 

I get mine at Autozone, they stock them

 

well i have tested my spark.. there the plugs the guys gave me at autozone when i said i needed new plugs, this was when i first got the car, smelt melting plastic and flipped out started touching everything, and got 2nd degree burns on my hand from the distributor, took the cap off and the rotor was gone, all of it had some how melted to the sides of the cap.. so yeah.. the spark i thought was fine, they were good enough for my pos crow vic i had.. lol

 

Your 7 is no POS CV, believe me I've owned 7 (cab operator), they run much hotter, dont ever get the generic 7 plugs, NGK or ND only....If your distributor cap got that hot did you replace it, if not do so. Just because you are getting spark doesnt mean its strong or long enough.

 

yes i replaced it.. lol the rotor completly melted... and all the plastic that it was made out of went on to the walls of the cap, so i thought that was the first reason why the car did not work after it stoped, that was the first thing i fixed, along with these plugs.. let it be known, this car hasnt started since any of this has happend, i got the car drove it about 4 times, and it died, 2k down the drain, BETTER NOT BE~ i know rx's are pos lol, just right now mine is because of the fact it wont start.

 

It's going to be something small, when you had your "meltdown" something else failed. So have you checked your plug leads resistance, oh and its far from unusual to get a bad distributor cap brand new. The fact that you had this problem indictaes the issue is in the spark area. It may come down to a Dizzy failure but I am not an electrician.

Anybody got Dizzy ideas based on his electrical meltdown.

 

Oh double check and clean your ground leads, from battery to body then to engine block in front of starter motor.

Damn it, definately check your fusable links, in fact its a probable now I think of it. there are three short wires looped on your drivers side strut tower under the hood, check all three and while at it replace with 2nd Gen fuseable links, they are a straight plug in replacement.

 

lol "meltdown" nice. well the day after this happend, i went and bought a new dizzy rotor, and cap, new plugs, and wires, only thing i could maybe undertand about this is my timming is sooo far off that the spark was hitting the side of the plastic and then going to the metal prong, causing alot of heat, or somthing causing that to melt, and stop causing spark, i truely believe this is why it stoped running, i how ever dont understand why it wont run now.. because everything seems to be fine.

 

fuseable links, check my addition to previous post

 

lol i checked these today,
well my dad did, and hes an electrician so ill believe his word on that,
as far as the ground feeds, im fairly sure we have already checked thos, but i will check them again tomorow when we install the new plugs, and if this thing doesnt start im going to attempt to film it cranking.. on the air filter do u have to have any of those hoses attached really for it to start.. im assuming not seing that ive been trying to start it with them off so that we could tell there was gas going in to the engine..

 

You should be able to start it with the air filter cover removed. back to basics, fuel, air and spark. Check that all are getting to engine then its coming down to the rats nest and the notorious air leaks in this system, trial and error.