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Hi everyone I'm not too familiar with rotaries just now learning. I have an 83 rx7 GSL with a 12a Nicki four-barrel I believe. it idles well in choke but when it kicks out the car will die every time. After that you can start it without joke but having to keep on the throttle, the car was not running when I purchased it it had been sitting for 7 years things I did are pumping all the old fuel out of the tank with an electric fuel pump and refueling with 92, replacing coils spark plugs and wires,
Tested fuel pump, an replaced cap an rotor. Car then fired over in choke with no problem other than small oil leak almost unnoticeable by mazda emblem on driver side engine case.
The car moves around fine an has good response while driving but only wen choke engaged otherwise it doesn't want to keap idle... I have the carb off an am waiting for my rebuild kit to come in, an that's were I'm at... any suggestions???
There is a throttle stop screw you can turn clockwise which will mimic holding your foot on the gas pedal. This is the best you can do right now until you have a chance to really get in there and deal with everything.
The screw is located down low under the throttle cable bracket next to the accel pump housing. I don't have any pictures handy but see if you can find it.
check for vacuum leaks. some of those rubber hoses might be leaking. Also there is one on the rear of the intake manifold that could be a massive leak.
Thank you all! I'm still waiting on my carb kit, but when I get everything back together I'll check for leaks an play around with that throttle screw a bit an se what happens. Also what seals do I need for the engine. I have a oil leak on the side?
I'll post a pic
Thank you all! I'm still waiting on my carb kit, but when I get everything back together I'll check for leaks an play around with that throttle screw a bit an se what happens. Also what seals do I need for the engine. I have a oil leak on the side?
I'll post a pic
You will ruin the carb if you change to the new needles and seats in the rebuild kit. They were all machined improperly and they all lead to instant flooding. Keep the originals and don't adjust the floats.
Noted!! That would suck... btw this is a similar kit to the one I was thinking of getting for just resealling an cleaning the motor up. Anything I'm missing?
Noted!! That would suck... btw this is a similar kit to the one I was thinking of getting for just resealling an cleaning the motor up. Anything I'm missing?
You might come to find after opening the engine up you'll need more parts.
Nothing like new apex seals to make an engine run tip top. $400 seems like a lot, but trust me, its WORTH it.
You might come to find after opening the engine up you'll need more parts.
Nothing like new apex seals to make an engine run tip top. $400 seems like a lot, but trust me, its WORTH it.
I also found a master rebuild kit for 1200$ but wanted to assess what's there befor dropping $$ like that haha, it apperently ran strong befor it sat, it's been a 1 owner car since 83 befor me an been sitting since 08 or 09 I belive.
At minimum I'd throw the felpro gasket set and a set of apex seals at any engine I tear down. I've had poor results from reusing apex seals.
Tear it down; then you'll know for sure. Not to scare you but if you take it down you might find you need bearings or rotors or even housings. Best just to cross your fingers and take those 17 bolts out.
10-21-15, 05:14 PM
