yer

So I got really F*ing sick of that rat's nest. Leaky, dirty, and ugly. I fallowed RX7Carl's pdf on how to remove it. It went great! or so i thought. First I removed the air pump, ACV and AAB#2, installed the 3L220 belt, and test started the car. it was approx 85 degrees in the shade, on a bright sunny afternoon last week. Without touching the choke or gas pedal, I barely breathed on the key, and the car sprang to life, happily poisoning me with uncontrolled emissions and blue smoke at a wonderful 750 rpm. "Hell Yes" I said, and called it a day. The next day, I returned armed with about 10 feet of vacuum line, RX7Carl's PDF, and more T fittings and vacuum line plugs than you can open a beer at. VERY CAREFULLY I removed and capped off all the vacuum lines on the carb that go to the rat's nest, with the exception of the second one from the left, which runs the the vac advance on the dizzy. This is verified by the pdf file AND the sticker under my hood placed there by mazda. IF someone tells me it needs to be put on manifold vacuum , I will drive to your house and hit you with a old rusty air control valve. Also I capped off the two half inch tubes on the intake manifold (the old hose with bolt and clamp method). I reconnected the purge valve to the correct places on the carb, and the oil fill pipe per RX7Carl's directions. Checked, re-checked and double checked everything, and reconnected the battery. It was approx 90 degrees in the shade, on a bright sunny afternoon last week. I turned the key: WRRR WRRR WRRR WRRR CHUGITCHUGITCHUGITCHA-BANG. Same with the choke out. I fiddled with it for awhile, and then finally got it started by pumping the gas pedal with the choke out all the way while starting it. It runs! BADLY. long story short, my leading coil was leaking oil. I replaced it with OEM from Napa. The problem was not just the hard starts either, the car would NOT idle. At the time I figured it was the coil's fault. After replacing the coil, the only way to start the car is with the choke all the way out. the car WILL NOT IDLE unless the choke is out about half way, so that the tach reads ~1000. If I depress the choke handle AT ALL; if the rpm goes anywhere below 1000, the engine drops to about 100rpm and has a REAL hard time running. It fires about 6 times a second and smokes like crazy, the engine bucking and boucning around under the hood. Hit the gas, or yank on the choke, and all is well. I began to look for vacuum leaks, IT seamed like a sensible place to start. Everything checked out. Then I disconnected the trailing coil wire, held it to ground while cranking to check for spark, it was fine, did the same for leading, also fine. Then I thought maybe the idle timing is off, you know, cuz of messing with the dizzy vac lines. I disconected the dizzy vac, and started the car, no change in idle issues, IE with no vac advance it runs like **** (go figure). "AH-HAH!" I said! "The vac advance is borked!" I put the dizzy vac line in my mouth and sucked like a $2 hooker. An audible "click" noise came from the dizzy. I assume that the vac advance is functioning, because when vacuum is applied to the dizzy, it did _somthing_ . Next I connected a PSI gage to the second carb vac nipple. ya know, the one the dizzy connects to. Fired up the car, and NO VACUUME? I dont trust the gage because it's circa 1974 so I ran a vac line from the carb nipple to my face, and fired up the car. My face reads a slight sucking sensation, not as much as it took to get the "click" from the dizzy. So, now I run a vac line from the dizzy to my mouth, fire up the car, and suck hard! Ya know, to manually kick off the vac advance. IT STILL RUNS LIKE ****. As a last ditch effort, say "mabey it will just plain work right if the car is up to proper operating temp". I reconnect the dizzy vac line to the appropriate carb nipple, yank the choke out all the way, start up the car, and wait. Three minutes on the dot, the choke auto retracts as the water temp hits 180, and the car's idle drops to about 100rpm, fires about 10 times, and stalls. At this point I yank off the negative battery cable, slam the garage door, and go the F to bed. any suggestions?

P.S. Thanks so much for anyone who took the time to read this!

'84-12A-GSL

I read it, cause I just removed my rats nest today. and I notice the idle with the choke in is really wonky. Mine doesn't sound as bad as yours thou. Iunno the issue. I'd like an answer to thou.

yer

Thanks for the quick reply '84-12A-GSL, I'm glad I'm not the only one with this issue! Maybe we can both get this resolved quickly. Also, I forgot to mention the ground wire that bolts onto the rats nest. I read somewhere on the forum that if it is not connected your idle will suck. I rerouted it directly to the battery negative terminal to avoid this issue. However this may be related to your issue? Double check that it is properly grounded and let me know how it goes!

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

Did you make sure you capped the bottom left port on the intake. It's easily overlooked after you remove everything. It will be on the bottom facing the firewall.

yer

The approx 1" long by 1/2 inch opening facing backwards? yes.

'84-12A-GSL

ground wire? I dont think I cam across and grounds. Also what dod you do with your green connector, that used to go to the vacuum control. Leave it unhooked?

yer

'84-12A-GSL, I do not have a green connector. according to my vacuum routing diagram under the hood, the vacuum control switch solenoid is apart of the rats nest. I have an '82, I don't know if it is the same for you. Maybe I was looking In the wrong place for this vac control connector, and I have missed unplugging it? Anyone else got an 82 out there that has removed the rat's nest?

yer

'82 wiring diagram says the vacuum control solenoid is apart of the rats nest, and is a green wire and a brown wire in a two prong plug (dunno connector color). and yes, mine is just left hanging, as I no longer have the rat's nest installed.

yer

bump
come on.. someone knows what to do...