Bloke ? Never been called a bloke before. I looked it up in the Websters and it says a bloke is a bowlegged sheep-tender ( usually married to a sheila ) that will work for beer descended from relocated prisoners with a bastardized English accent known to have no mechanical ability or creativity whatsoever EXCEPT for rotary engines. So, thanks mate ! I'll accept that as a compliment.

 

QUOTE :"The reason this guy is experiencing overheating is because his lack of thermostat is not blocking the coolant bypass inside the engine:"

i have the a freeze plug blocking the coolant bypass hole inside the housing, and now i installed a gutted thermostat, and still the gauge will go to 220 just going around the block.
now can it be the two 10" fans not pushing enough air to cool the engine? or should i just install a reg 180 deg thermostat and see if it works without gutting it or plugging the bypass hole.

i runnging out of options here...... new i am going to perform the flush on the radiator to see if that the problem.
and last resort i will go back to the stock fan.

 

My opinion stands and if you wanna argue, do what you want. I dont care. There are things in life wherein you dont need to be a rocket scientist to make it work. It just straight common sense.

 

Toyo- You're overheating just going around the block? Literally? Okay, are you sure that the fans are running the right direction? Are you sure that the gauge is correct? You stated before that you have good flow, how certain are you? As long as you have water flowing through the radiator and motor, there is no way that you can be overheating that quickly. Somewhere there is a mistake in your calculations...

 

i dont wanna say that i have real good flow, i know there is some flow but not much.
and yes the fans are blowing the right way. i guess after the flush i'll know if the radiators fine.

 

Time for a new water pump? To check your radiator, just wait til the car is cold, then remove the radiator cap. Start the car, and if the radiator is blocked then all of your coolant will start coming out of the radiator opening. Rev it up a little, and see if its flowing through the radiator fast enough to keep up with the motor. If you can do all of this without loosing your coolant, then you probably need a new water pump. The only way that you could be heating up that quickly is if the water is not even being moved through the motor. Considering that, it has to be lack of flow, which means the radiator or the pump (since you have no thermostat). And put a damn thermostat in while you're at it.

 

Sorry kentetsu,
i still havent put a regular thermostat in this thing yet...lol but i did take your advise and checked for flow. first I flushed the hell out of the radiator, then flushed the engine and radiator with just plain water. i checked the radiator and it flowing real good, but the car still started to get hot.
which brings me to the fans. it has to be the two cheap 10" fans that are on there. i dont feel like if pushing enough air to cool. so im going to mount a stock fan. and im gonna try to find a fan shroud and mount it also.

also a friend pointed this out to me, i kind of make sense. he looked at the car and noticed that back when i started this project i was planning to go turbo, so i had to gut the radiator support to get the intercooler to fit. and now that i finished it non-turbo, and no intercooler, there is a big gap on the sides of the radiator. so he said that when i drive it the air is going to find the least resistence possible and go around the radiator.

 

Instead of going with a stock fan, check the junkyards or Ebay for an '80s MR2 fan. This is actually two smaller fans, and you just have to drill two holes on the shroud that comes with them to mount them on the stock radiator. I'm actually only using one of them right now, and have had no issues with overheating. I had both mounted, but then switched to a 2nd gen radiator and haven't figured out how to mount them properly yet. Also, those shrouds around the radiator play a HUGE roll in cooling, you'll need to replace them.

 

I experienced the EXACT same thing you're going through, TOYO... except mine came at the expense of popping the motor (ahh, it had 278K miles on it anyway, and bad oil seals...it was time to go). What did I learn for the next time? AutoZone has 160 degree thermostats... tell them it's for a "summer" car... it's the same price as the regular one. I have a Flex-a-lite 14" fan on mine, but no shroud... it flows 2200cfm, so I'm not horribly worried about it, but that doesn't mean I don't need it. The "low" thermostat, a good e-fan, and a shroud will keep your motor at 160-170 all day long... even during track days.

 

ok here is the lastest, i removed the two 10" e-fans "pieces of ****".... i have installed the factory fan clutch and blade. and i also covered the holes on the sides of the radiator, so that the air goes only through the radiator.

so at idle the car ran way cooler, but going around the block it got up to about 195 deg. so the factory fan made some difference. now i need to some how add a shroud to the radiator. cause even though the fan is about 1" away from the radiator, they tell me i should put a shroud on to direct the flow of air.

now that my problem of running to rich is almost resolved, now the car is running way to rich on idle, but under a load "driving" it boggs out completly. i have to rev it to take of on 1st gear. but when it clears up on 1st, if u hit 2nd then theres not enough gas and it dies on 2nd. i know the fuel pump "factory mazda" is probably not enough for the mikuni. so i am going to mount a "loud *** holley" to see what other problem comes up.

the person that built the motor, tells me that its sounds like running way to lean. even though it idle "i think" its way to RICH. you can smell the gas out the back of the muffler. and the intake is ice cold.

 

I have probably already asked this, but are you absolutely positive that your leading ignition is working correctly? And yes, smelling gas fumes at idle would indicate a rich idle (also might see black soot on plugs).

 

yes both coils are firing correctly.... plugs are also covered with gas.

 

check fuel pressure, if okay then lean the carb

 

I have the fuel pressure set at 3psi, well that all that the factory fuel pump can push anyways.lol but i read in other theads that people have the set at 4.5 psi.
so thats why i have to get a bigger fuel pump.

 

oh that was good for a laugh :P

bloke/guy/dood/whatever you want to call a person :P

No we don't have women called sheila, that would be stereotyping now. We don't go saying that you are all hoods that live in trailers and smoke crack and beat your wives with bowling ***** because your dinner was cold two weeks ago!

 

Lastest update:
i really have had no time to work on the car, but this what i did this saturday.
1. removed factory mazda fuel pump, and installed the msd one back on "but this time i ran a return line" maybe now i can regulate the pump.

2. covered the sides of the radiator, so the air "only" can go through the radiator.

3. installed half of a fan shroud on the radiator. "have to modify alot of things" since this setup is in a 73 corolla.

4. AND FINALLY..... i think i found out what the problem was from the start.......THE ******* FAN BELT SEEMS TO BE SLIPPING BIG TIME........lol lol ALL THE **** I CHANGED AND WENT THROUGH. and i think it was the fan belt slipping on the pulley. i have come to this conclusion, cause with tension on the belt. you can spin the pulley with your hand. so i changed it, but i didnt havent time to test the car yet.


will keep u posted......

 

are you running just one belt?if so you need to get a dual alt. pully.they sell on ebay for about 15-20 dollars