1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Car flooding very easily.

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Old 03-01-07, 01:30 PM
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Car flooding very easily.

Before I go any further, yes I have read the stickies and searched about this issue.

I'm 16, 17 in a couple weeks. Have been looking for a car within my family's budget for about five months. I help run our shop during the day (soda shop) and we currently only have two cars, both of which my parents need for their jobs. So we've been looking to find me one so I can spend time with friends during the week easier.

While driving back to the shop I saw a car, only got a quick glance, saw the for sale sign in the window and thought "that's a nice looking car I'll check it out" (i'm not a big car guy so didn't see it was an rx7 right away). I went to check it out, got the number and called. It's a 1985, red, GS rx7. Interior is virtually perfect and exterior has a only a few rust spots (about a tenth the size of dime) which have had touch of paint put on them.

My dad and I test drove it (him driving, I've yet to have a chance to learn to drive a stick). It drove well, seemed like a good car. The guy selling it had warned that it floods easily, we didn't realize quite how easily though. We drove to a mechanic's shop that my dad owed some money, set up to have him take a look at it friday (tommorow) and got back in. He turned the key and it tried to start but wouldn't at first. He cut it off, tried once more and it fired right up.

We got back to where the car was parked before. Gave the guy the keys back, he was in a hurry, had to be home so he could get to church. He got in, went to start the car up and it wouldn't start. Sounded as if the engine had flooded. We asked him about it and he said he's not sure what it was but to call him today if we'd like to know (I plan to do that). However odds are, the engine flooded. Especially being that he said it floods easily.

I know the rx7 has the cold-start problem that can cause it to flood however we had been driving for a good ten minutes at least before we cut it off.

So far everything I'd read says it could be one of three things:

Fuel Injectors (can't be, this car doesn't use fuel injection).
Engine Compression (would doubt it would be this due to it only have 96,000 miles on it).
Spark Plugs/Spark Plug Wires (hopefully it's this).

However I'm curious as to whether or not a good mechanic (ours has worked on mazda's for over twenty years, and has worked on this car once before) would be able to tell what is causing it to flood so easily. Also, if it is the spark plugs or spark plug wires, how much it would be to replace.

Thanks in advance.
Old 03-01-07, 02:16 PM
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I have an '83 12A that sat for 13 years before I got it. When I was "reviving" it, I had a flooding problem. It was caused (or at least added to) by a bad air (bowl) vent solenoid. This is an emissions part that is not available form Mazda any longer, so I had to remove it (easily done). It is on the passenger side of the carb under the fuel inlet/outlet hoses. It has an electrical connector coming out of it. Disconnect it, turn the switch on and re-establish teh connection. You should hear it clicking. If not, it is bad. Search on "air vent solenoid" for more info.

Good luck.
- David
Old 03-01-07, 02:16 PM
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Its always a hit and miss with mechanics for me. Give him a rotary quiz, lol. BUt from what people have told me on this forum, the stock carb can be tricky to work with and so someone who understands rotaries and carbs should look at it.

Heres info for some plugs and wires; these are the only kind ill use on my car.
http://mazdatrix.com/ignition.htm

Good luck, crappy problems like that suck.

Aure
Old 03-01-07, 02:29 PM
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The other thing to check is fuel level in the float bowls. There are windows in each one. You may have to use a small mirror to see the one in the back. Fuel should be half-way up each one. I got gunk in my carb (after rebuilding it...) from gunk in the fuel tank. The gunk messed up needle valve closure which caused it to flood.

- David
Old 03-01-07, 02:41 PM
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I personally am not mechanically inclined enough to check it myself. And obviously since we have not bought the car (yet) would not be able to fix it ourselves and make sure that was the cause. That's why I had asked if a experienced mechanic (20+ years experience with mazdas) should be able to diagnose the problem or not.
Old 03-01-07, 03:16 PM
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I just talked to the guy on the phone. He said he tried starting it up again ten minutes laterand it started right up. Sort of sounds like a bad sign.
Old 03-01-07, 03:27 PM
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If it was really truely flooded, a "de-flood" procedure would have to be done before it would crank (yes, I'm experienced at this, too . Sounds like it just has some starting issues.

If you're considering buying a 7, you had better plan on becoming mechanical, unless you have deep pockets to pay a mechanic. These are old cars and tend to take a lot of work to keep them running.

Good luck.
- David
Old 03-01-07, 03:35 PM
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I indeed plan on it. My grandfather was a mechanic, owned his own shop and I plan to learn a lot from him. The seller himself said the car does flood easily. What would your guess be as to what might cause it to not start up sometimes? Needing a new starter possibly?
Old 03-01-07, 03:45 PM
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I'm not experienced enough with 7's to make a guess as I've only had mine for about 10 months. Others on the forum would be a lot more help. If it were mine, though, (and there are threads about stuff to do when you get a 7) I'd do a basic tune up, change all the fluids, change the fuel filter, air filter, etc., and then go from there. If it runs well after it cranks, it probably won't be much of a problem to solve starting issue.

- David
Old 03-01-07, 03:46 PM
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BTW, the biggest improvement in my 7's starting & running was changing to DLIDFIS ignition (there are threads on this, too).

- David
Old 03-01-07, 04:01 PM
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What worries me is that it would be somethgin expensive to fix. Spending the 2800 to get it is a bit tight on my family as is. So, taking a risk like that isn't something we can really do. I'm hoping when we have our mechanic check it out tommorow that he'll be able to find out what it is.
Old 03-01-07, 05:18 PM
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Our 7's are very expensive to keep up, just due to the nature of the car and the parts. I have EFI and rarely I'll experience a flooding problem (only 3 times since I've had my car in '05.). It's not uncommon to spend a good amount of money on the car for it to run properly. If the car is in good condition with minimal wear on the existing parts that point to "sudden failure", you shouldn't have a problem with it. However, if the wear is quite noticeable and a few things will need to be replaced, be prepared to spend the money.

I just replaced my gas tank with a replacement from a local parts guy (only 1st Gens) and the entire tank, straps, and filler neck hose assembly costed me about $120. Then, I got a new fuel level sending unit, that was about $140. I'll be needing a new power steering pump, that'll cost me $200 (plus core). I just changed out my clutch master and slave cylinder, that was $80.

Don't buy the car unless you're prepared to drive a money pit. They can run like a top when taken care of, but to get to that status, be prepared to spend some money. Not a car for the financially strapped.
Old 03-01-07, 05:47 PM
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I'm most definitely willing to put the money in it. The guy says the car runs very well, which from riding in it with my father driving (again, haven't had the opportunity to learn one yet) it felt great and he had no complaints at all about how it drove or handled. Except of course no power steering, but obviously that's just something to get used to.

My main concern is, can a good mechanic find out what the problem is if there is one with it starting or flooding? Also, is it possible to have just fluke problems? One time and then gone? Logic would tell me that it's not since anything going wrong is just a symptom of a cause, but I figure it's worth asking.
Old 03-01-07, 05:58 PM
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Sadly, there's not a lot of mechanics out there who are familiar with our cars. But, if you're willing to put the money into it, you'll fall in love with the car. I did when I first got it and I've never felt that strong towards a car, they're that much fun.

Starting could be a bad connection from battery to starter. Or, a weak starter. Thankfully, a starter R&R is the easiest I've ever seen on a car. Our cars are known to flood, and apparently the 12As (carbureted) have that problem more than 13Bs (fuel-injected). Try and find someone who is knowledgeable with our cars, it'll make it that much easier on your wallet than entrusting your car with a guy who just "guesses" what's wrong with it.

Oh, and spark plugs and wires the one of the most easiest things to replace on these things. Be prepared to spend $80 on all parts: cap, rotor, plugs, wires. But, it's real easy.
Old 03-01-07, 06:11 PM
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For 2800, the car should be in mint condition and have no mechanical or cosmetic problems. For what the seller is asking, the flooding should be fixed prior to selling and you need to do a thorough inspection for rust. That includes putting the car up on a hoist and pulling the rear storage bins.
Old 03-01-07, 06:17 PM
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^^+1 ...But in all honestly my 82 is carbed as well...and i HAVE NEVER had a problem with flooding. MAKE SURE TO WARM HER UP TO OPERATING LEVEL BEFORE YOU DECIDE TO SHUT HER OFF AGAIN!! NO SHORT TRIPS if you will.
Old 03-01-07, 06:42 PM
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As I said earlier, my '83 12A had been sitting for 13 years before I got it, so I've had to do 13 years worth of maintenance, plus fix whatever caused the original owner to park it to begin with, plus fix the stuff that deteriorated over 13 years, so I've got a lot tied up in mine. I paid $1600 and have spent another $2400 on parts, and I've done all the work. It still needs springs, shocks, carpet, seats covered, and a paint job. Fortunately, it has no rust in it and only a couple of small dings. Like someone said earlier, it's a moneypit. Like I've said before, it's worse than a drug habit. But, I love my 7!

- David
Old 03-01-07, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
For 2800, the car should be in mint condition and have no mechanical or cosmetic problems. For what the seller is asking, the flooding should be fixed prior to selling and you need to do a thorough inspection for rust. That includes putting the car up on a hoist and pulling the rear storage bins.
So in other words it is definitely over priced. Would you have any suggestion as to where to search to find an rx7 more locally? First gen preferably. Unfortunantly this guy says he won't go less than 2800. The car was his 'baby'. So he's got the emotional attachment that he can't let go. (Note: I understand emotional attachment to a car, I think if you're needing to sell it for your family though, one should understand what it's worth)

I'm also a bit leery that he is trying to pass it off as normal to have that kind of flooding happen.

Note: We drove it long enough for the engine to warm up all the way.
Old 03-01-07, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidMyers53
I have an '83 12A that sat for 13 years before I got it. When I was "reviving" it, I had a flooding problem. It was caused (or at least added to) by a bad air (bowl) vent solenoid. This is an emissions part that is not available form Mazda any longer, so I had to remove it (easily done). It is on the passenger side of the carb under the fuel inlet/outlet hoses. It has an electrical connector coming out of it. Disconnect it, turn the switch on and re-establish teh connection. You should hear it clicking. If not, it is bad. Search on "air vent solenoid" for more info.

Good luck.
- David
David is that on the passenger side? or the driver side(the air vent solenoid)?
Old 03-01-07, 08:37 PM
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Emotional attachment or not, it's over priced. If he is so fond of it, he should have fixed it. Unless he's willing to come down a lot, like nearly 1k, keep looking.
Old 03-01-07, 08:57 PM
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Will do. That's what I was getting at earlier is that it seems a bit dumb that he's letting his emotional attachment put it at an unreasonable price.

And again if anyone know a good area to find an rx7 locally please let me know. Incase it matters, I'm fine with the interior/exterior needing some work, I just want to make sure it is mechanically sound.
Old 03-01-07, 08:58 PM
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Drivers side i found it.

And I'm w/my boy trochoid. The guy says it's his baby? $2800? Man this guy has used up all the fun in this car and now it's maintinance time, that's probably why he wants to get rid of it...probably. 90,000+ miles, 85' model, man it's time for new everthing under the hood= electrical, plugs, may need a carb overhaul, vacuum lines, fuel filter & pump, tie rod ends, ball joints, alt, water pump, sway bar bushings, ect.
Just my 2 cents cause when I got mine I thought it was gonna be bodda bang bodda bing but everything I fix leads me to something else...just spent $600 on all new brake parts, need a new exhaust asap($700), wheels-tires(most important thing!)$700, balljoints, sway bushings...already replaced fuel pump, filter, lines, all vacuum hoses, rebuilt carb(twice, my bad), water pump, ect...another $300, need paint job, and car is still up on jacks, whew! But it will all be worth it soon. Just ordered my ST springs and struts/shocks today. ;0
Old 03-01-07, 09:42 PM
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He's had it for three years. He bought it from an older lady. Only reason he's selling it is he has a kid on his way and so his wife is pressuring him to sell it since obviously you can't have a car seat in an rx7.
Old 03-02-07, 07:21 AM
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Air vent solennoid is on drivers side-- not passenger-- sorry!

- David
Old 03-02-07, 07:27 AM
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Talk to the wife, since she wants it gone, maybe she'll be more reasonable on the price, lol. Even 1800 could be pushing the high side of it's true value. I really depends on needed mechanical work and cosmetics, i.e., paint and interior.

If you can, post pics, particularly anything that may bring the value down, rust, worn interior, bad paint, dents, engine bay, etc. Either way, I'd keep looking, they are out there, it just takes time and patience.


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