Kentetsu

Just to make sure everybody is clear on this point;

It is normal that the fuel pump does not turn on until the engine is cranking. If the trailing ignitor is not firing, then the fuel pump will not run. So the trailing ignitor is fine, and your fuel pump is operating normally. You still need to perform the volume test, but it will probably be fine.

Also, when your car was idling, and then it died.... you said that the front sight glass was showing empty. I'm wondering if maybe you could have seen if the float was stuck in the up position.

cdrad51

To further clarify on that, this is true for 84/85 year models only. Earlier years do not have the relay, which means in the "on" position the fuel pump will be whirring away.

nuredbaron

ok guysi'm going to give it a try this saturday. i am super busy i might get to it on friday. i still haven't found out where the relay is, any help. cdrad i check on the search but no go. i think that i am just going to trace the wiring if i don't have an idea where it is. any ideas on how much voltage should be going to the pump. i was thinking about hooking the pump up to the battery with a inline fuse and switch but i don't want to burn down my baby. but of course this is the last resort. oh and ya i understand what u meant cdrad. thanks for the hep again i just can't wait till i get a chance to work on her again.

cdrad51

Oh cmon man I even told you what keywords to use! Ok here it is, read this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...mp+relay+trick

nuredbaron

i think that i searched in the wrong area. but after i posted i was just browsing and happened upon you helping someone else. figures i would find it later. thanks again cdrad it is the first thing that i am going to do on saturday.

nuredbaron

ok found the connector for the fuel pump relay switch it has six spots for wires but only four wires a blue w/ white stripeon the top in one corner, a black w/ yellow stripe on the top on the oposite corner and, then two black wires w/ white stripes. the black wires with white stripes are onthe botom of the plug below the blue wire and in the center. i saw the diagram for the bypass of the relay but i can't quite remember which one's to cut and wire a switch in. all of the threads say remove it but not how if i jumper two of the wires what should i do with the rest or should i plug it back in but have the two wires to by pass it sniped and wired into a switch. thanks ahead for the help.

cdrad51

Just do exactly as the diagram says. To bypass it, simply use a wire that goes from the upper left connector to the lower middle one in the plug where the relay used to be. If you want to install a switch, the simplest way is put it where it says "permanent jumper wire", so it goes wire-switch-wire.

nuredbaron

thanks for the help cdrad . i hope this is it.

cdrad51

Well let us know what happens after you bypass the relay. If that is not it, it's still gonna be in the general area of fuel delivery so it shouldn't be too hard to narrow it down from there.

nuredbaron

i bypassed the relay with a switch now the pump buzzes to life but it still has the same issues. i had forgotten me fuel pressure gauge so i couldn't test thats next. my friend thinks it is a carb issue i'm just not sure i guess after i test for pressure and gph i will know.

also the car is running really rich could it be so rich that it is using so much fuel that the pump can't keep up?

one odd note when i removed the banjo bolt off of the carb there was no screen.

also whats the deal with the fuel check valve in the fuel return line?
could it be an issue? i blew threw it and air passed through but it gave of a gugling sound.

oh and any suggestions on a new carb? once i get this problem figured thats on or near the top of the list. i was thinking about the 45oer that robert at rotaryshack sells.

cdrad51

How do you know the car is running really rich? do yo mean at idle? you mentioned earlier the car died after idling for 4-5 mins and the bowls were empty. There is no way, no matter how rich, that idling could use more gas than the pump should be able to give. Something else is wrong.

So now with the key in the on position and the fuel pump buzzing, is there gas coming out of the fuel line at the engine bay at the appropriate volume and pressure? obviously if yes, and if it repeats the behaviour of dying after idling for a few mins and having the bowls empty, it would be a carb issue.

1av8r

Any new information on this one yet?