Ok, my idle was kinda bad before, but not to bad, it would always choke when you first start it, had to give it alittle gas to keep it going (just one quick shot of gas), then it would stablize to 1k rpm


Well, yesturday we destroyed the alternator belt (it seriously just ripped apart while driving, I told them they should have replaced it earlier) Well, I went and bought one and put it on, all was good, but now the car can't idle, like if I put the clutch in, it drops to about 150 rpms (WAY down there) then it dies, if I idle at a red light, it dies, anything pretty much that drops the rpms for more then 5 secounds will kill the engine now.

What could be causing this?

Its a pain in the *** driving it now, I have to switch between brakes and gas while stopping to keep it alive while stopping at a red, then I have to continue until it turns green, and if I have to hard stop (to avoid an animal or something) it will just straight die, I have to shift mad fast also, such a pain in the ***.

So What could be causing this?

I didn't do anything other then switch the belt over (which was also a major pain in the ***)


Thanks in advance

-Karma

 

Are you sure your break booster is'nt creating a leak?

 

This may sound stupid, but how would I go about checking that?

My Manual (chiltons) says nothing about this problem, and covers nothing, I might as well have bought a video game with that money, it would help alot more

I'm willing to check anything
There is a small problem with break pressure, but I assume it just needs bleed (But I may be wrong) so the booster sounds like it may be the source of more problems then I thought.


Thanks

-Karma

 

The booster has a vacuum line that goes to the manifold. If it were disconnected, your car would simply stall out. If there was a leak in your booster, it can cause any idle in between regular and stalling. You should be able to pump the brakes and hear just a slight drop in idle. That's only if you have the carb tuned correctly to begine with! So You can't tune the carb correctly without a good booster! (round & round we chase our tails...)
However, you can try to tune your carb correctly buy disconnecting the hose from the booster and plugging it up really well. If you can then tune your carb, and you replace the line and it goes back to being funny, then it's without a doubt at least one of your problems.

 

**** man, I didn't realize that the brake booster was even connected to the whole vacuum system.. GAH... maybe THAT's part of my running problems.. I'll have to check that one.. I thought I had found an orphan vacuum line on the brake booster today, but it turned out to be the sub-zero fluid hose that for some reason had it's disconnected other end over by there. Who knows?

Jon

Jon

 

Ah, I have a Fuel Injected 13b motor, But I assume that its all the same with vaccum lines and such, every (seriously, every) time I keep the clutch in for more then a brief moment, it will die, and almost everything that isn't pushing on the gas pedal will kill it, if I let off the gas for to long it dies, I use the E-brake to drive it right now (had to goto auto shop down the street, they were no help)
And of course, now I don't want to drive it, but need to (to get to work and what not) so I need to fix this problem before 4 pm tomarrow (this problem started this getting bad this morning)

I will check the lines tomarrow morning, could it be the fuel filter maybe (is there an external one on the 13b fi engines)

I really really need this car running tomarrow, if I don't, I can only assume that bad stuff (losing job, ect.) will happen.

Well, I will trace the vaccum lines abit, is there anything that is pretty common that leads to this problem (like a spacific vaccum line to look at first) cause I really don't know what to look for, and I'm to broke to take it to a rotary shop (major expensive to get the rotary engine guys up here to work on your car)

Thanks in Advance for any more help

-Karma

 

I suggest you search for the symptoms on the 2nd gen forum.