Can Someone help me with Glowing header gsl-se FRESH rebuild
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Can Someone help me with Glowing header gsl-se FRESH rebuild
I havn't cussed her yet but its been two weeks being patient since she first started up. After some bouncing idle but great high idle 3800-2800 Timining issues and flooding. The last 2 times we started her the front header was glowing bright red after a minute or so. I searched and searched to no help, the injectors were just cleaned by witchunter checked for vacuum leaks but not exactly sure on timing.
I turn the motor clockwise on the Rb main pulley the mark wold be 20 the first to show then I put in dizzy with arrow point straight but won't start. Put dizzy in at 10-11 o'clock starts right up.
I am VERY VERY scared of blowing my motor I have not revved it we only started her 5 times max with a max running time of 3 minutes never above 4000
Some history:
The air intake sensor near the oil filler connector broke off and mazda no longer sells it?
The cold air intake I made has the air tube going to the air filter instead of the black air hose? someone said to do this in order to have the ecu read the colder air
I took out the connector to the back of the water pump to put in my aftermarket water gauge?
Any ideas will help and I will try thanks
I turn the motor clockwise on the Rb main pulley the mark wold be 20 the first to show then I put in dizzy with arrow point straight but won't start. Put dizzy in at 10-11 o'clock starts right up.
I am VERY VERY scared of blowing my motor I have not revved it we only started her 5 times max with a max running time of 3 minutes never above 4000
Some history:
The air intake sensor near the oil filler connector broke off and mazda no longer sells it?
The cold air intake I made has the air tube going to the air filter instead of the black air hose? someone said to do this in order to have the ecu read the colder air
I took out the connector to the back of the water pump to put in my aftermarket water gauge?
Any ideas will help and I will try thanks
#3
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
The intake air temp sensor defaults to 72* F when it's not working. You can use a 2nd gen sensor as I believe it outputs the same values. Since you just had your injectors serviced, you're left with several options for the glowing headers. Fuel pressure may be too low due to a clogged fuel filter, timing may be way off, fuel pump on it's way out, fpr is on it's way out or a large exhaust leak.
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The picture I showed is this the correct position of the dizzy and main pulley mark? the fuel filter is new, I will try and get one from a second gen and see what happens thanks.
#7
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
Remove the rotor and take another picture please.
Glowing headers mean TOO MUCH FUEL. In other words, it's running way too rich. Why does everyone think running lean causes it? The mind wobbles this evening. Running lean causes th eengine to run hot, not the exhaust.
Perhaps the ECU is in warm up enrichment mode constantly due to the missing IAT sensor input defaulting it to 72°, thus sending in a very fat mixture way longer than necessary?
Yes I believe a 2nd gen air thermister will work. The range should be the same.
One other possiblility is your timing is grossly retarded and/or leading is not functioning. Either way, glowing headers can be caused by the fuel getting ignited too late in the cycle and burning in the exhaust instead of the engine.
EDIT: I just reread your post and realised yet another possibility since it's only happing on one rotor. Either one of your injectors is sticking in the open position or your leading plug is bad.
A plug can look good but still be bad. Try swapping leading plugs around to cross that off the list. If the other header gloes you've found your problem. If not it's an injector.
Glowing headers mean TOO MUCH FUEL. In other words, it's running way too rich. Why does everyone think running lean causes it? The mind wobbles this evening. Running lean causes th eengine to run hot, not the exhaust.
Perhaps the ECU is in warm up enrichment mode constantly due to the missing IAT sensor input defaulting it to 72°, thus sending in a very fat mixture way longer than necessary?
Yes I believe a 2nd gen air thermister will work. The range should be the same.
One other possiblility is your timing is grossly retarded and/or leading is not functioning. Either way, glowing headers can be caused by the fuel getting ignited too late in the cycle and burning in the exhaust instead of the engine.
EDIT: I just reread your post and realised yet another possibility since it's only happing on one rotor. Either one of your injectors is sticking in the open position or your leading plug is bad.
A plug can look good but still be bad. Try swapping leading plugs around to cross that off the list. If the other header gloes you've found your problem. If not it's an injector.
Last edited by Jeff20B; 04-25-07 at 01:44 AM.
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