So there is more to it than just porting the irons?I have searched for hours and can not get a straight answer on what is really involved in doing this.The short videos i have watched just show using the templates.So safe to say its best to find someone that knows what they are doing. I just dont want to get raped in the process.

 

The way I started was by gathering as much info as I could and placing it in my HD. Bought a set of junk plates, die grinder and double cut carbide bits and went to town. After that I posted the finished product on nopistons and asked for advice. 3 years later Im porting my own engines. Be patient and always have your ears open there is alot of good advice floating around here.

 

$$$$$$$$
its all big money remeber that your going to drop AT LEAST 3,000 into this upwards to 5,000

the seal and spring alone is around 1,200 if i remeber right
add 1600 for new housings
and another 1,400 to have it ported by racing beat

then add however much you want for what kind of fuel delivery your going with carb my reach to 1,000+
Fuel injection is big money 2000 or more with aftermarket ECU wich is a must

 

VJ I am debating what to do with my SA's power plant at the moment as well. The power hungry side of me says there is no room for the 12A and it most be replaced with 13BT. The part of me that has to fund the project thinks maybe blow thru ported 12A is the way to go. More reading to come. Anyway i meet a guy off the forum about a front air dam a week or two ago and he had one bad *** drag car... bridge ported, NOS, ford 9" full cage very neat car. He had a banner on the front windshield..."Roman's Rotary Engine Performance 678-358-0242". It seams this guy has a local following for porting in the drag community around here. Like i say i have never talked to him but maybe worth a call. Let me know if you talk to him and how it goes.

 

Wow, thank you for the phone number.I am about 3 hours away from Atlanta. I will for sure give him a call Monday. Its is hard to find anyone close by me who works on Rotarys. Maybe he is friendly and will talk to me.Turbo would be real nice, i see alot of vids with 1st gen turbos and the look nasty.If i can acheive 225 or so hp out of a carb 13b i think that would be good enough for such a small car.That is about the same hp as an older stock 5.0 Mustang and they ran stock about high 13s low 14s. I dont want a race car but a lil pocket rocketI hear so much conflicting storys on the reliability of driving a Bridgeport and how long the motor last.I for sure do not have the money to keep pulling my motor apart every couple months.As i posted before i will drive my car maybe 10 miles a day and around town on the weekends. Gas money is not that much of a problem being i had a 96 Chevy with a 5.7 sitting on 35s. From what i have read a massive street port is good also, but when you bridge you start to get the lope" brap". That sounds so sweet.

 

Really?? They were more like high 14's or 15's

With all the jap turbo skylines etc running around a fast street car is now in the 13's.

Mine runs a 14.2 (be more like 13.4 at sea level) with 227 rwhp and there are so so many faster cars out there.

 

Aaaah found it!

Mustang Performance
1985 Ford Mustang GT
0-60 mph: 7.2 sec
Quarter Mile: 15.9 sec

Didn't take much to beat them back in the day....however those who hast them thought they were FAST

 

wow i was way off.LOL!! I just want a quick car.

 

Like Men in Black said.... you're going to be deep $$$$$ into this project before you ever here the *brap* the other thing you need to remember is that HP doesn't make your car fast. Torque is what makes your car accelerate quickly. What I'm getting at is, what good is making 225 hp if you have to rev to 10k RPM to see it? My recommendation... get over the *brap* and go turbo. I'm in the middle of a 12a blowthrough build and will be shooting for 250hp or so, at around 7-8k rpm. But more importantly i should have a nice solid torque curve of a little more then 200 lb/ft of torque through almost the whole rev range.

Also, if you've already got a sidedraft carb Robert@Rotary Shack will boost prep it for around $100. The way I figured, if I didn't tear my engine apart to streetport it, I could have turbo'd the car for a little more than $1000... compare that with bridgeporting and all the supporting mods to go with it and you're going to be at least triple that.

 

I paid 700.00 for my motor. I was told it was street ported. I have to buy a intake, header, carb, clutch and pressure plate. If i am lucky i can get all of that for about 600.00 if the guy still has the parts. If not i am going to spend a little more and get them piece by piece if im lucky.From what i was told and read with the set up that i will have would be good for about 210-225ish. That would be with a Racing Beat intake,Race Header and Holley 650. If i go with Bridgeporting i would have to spend money on gasket set, 130.00 or so and another couple hundred for someone to port it for me.From what i have read that would give 245 or so hp. I dont understand about the curve, but i know you dont start getting hp till 5 or 6 grand on the tach.I think that would be a good range to be fun on the street. Either way i have to spend money. LOL!

 

tell me you looked at the engine and it looks like it has been tore apart please tell me you got the recipe from the port job????

And if it is ported stock fuel system WILL NOT work it will need upgrading wich is more money.

 

I bought this motor off a forum member. I have been to his house while the motor was apart on the stand. I trust this man until i need not to. I had a 12a with Racing Beat intake and Holley 465 with a Holley Red fuel pump. I have the basics, just need the meat and potatoes. I had to sell the 12a stuff because it wouldnt fit. From what i was told you can use 12a irons with the early 13b. So if i can use them that is one less thing i need.

 

ok just checking to make sure.

 

Thanks for the concern, you really cant trust no one these days.

 

I dont think you'll be finding all those parts for $600.00 and if you do there going to need a rebuild or some tlc to get them back up to spec. Why not learn how to port yourself? It isn't hard. I saw a thread you made about keeping interest with you car. What better way to keep yourself interested than to lear how to port?! I hope I didnt sound like a dick, but everyday I log to see if any fun new topics are being covered and everyday I see the same topics from 2001. Either way goodluck.


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