Can I still use Mech Secondaries if.......
#2
My 7 is my girlfriend.
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I'm sure you can. The accelerator pump works with the vacuum secondaries, no reason it shouldn't work with mechs. The reason for modding it is to smooth out the transition and make sure they squirt when you need it. You may want to do it anyway.
#5
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
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Had that done on the nikki carb I used to run. It was welded to open the secondaries about 2/3's fully open on the primary sides. It was great. I dont think we got around to doing the AP mod, but when you floored the primaries, then pedal to the metal it, it would hiccup for a split second then BAHHHHHHHHHHHHH. I really didn't mind the hiccup, I actually liked it there. Of course, when opening it slowly, you will not have any AP problems if it is not modded.
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It took me about a 5 minutes to grab some twist ties and a pair of pliers to mod my carb and I love the control I gained. I planned on modding the AP but since driving it and seeing how it's not too bad, the AP mod keeps getting pushed to a later date.
Stock nikki < secondary only modded nikki < secondary and AP modded nikki < after market carb.
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#8
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Ya, but I find that only happens below 3k rpms if you try to floor it.
It took me about a 5 minutes to grab some twist ties and a pair of pliers to mod my carb and I love the control I gained. I planned on modding the AP but since driving it and seeing how it's not too bad, the AP mod keeps getting pushed to a later date.
Stock nikki < secondary only modded nikki < secondary and AP modded nikki < after market carb.
It took me about a 5 minutes to grab some twist ties and a pair of pliers to mod my carb and I love the control I gained. I planned on modding the AP but since driving it and seeing how it's not too bad, the AP mod keeps getting pushed to a later date.
Stock nikki < secondary only modded nikki < secondary and AP modded nikki < after market carb.
Thank you, and the rest of the guys for your input, my carb is off the car( 1980 rex) for a rebuild so the secondary mech is so much easier to understand, and hook up especially since the airhorn and throttle body are seperated. I simply want to rebuild the carb, then try the atf treatment to see if I can raise the compression, then I want to get headers& exaust, remove rats nest, and go with a sterling or rotaryshack racing prepped carb w/ bigger feul pump and regulater. Thank you guys for your input!!
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#11
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
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Just take the whole can and pour it in your gas tank when you fill up. Or you can go in a vacuum line (iirc) or engine oil. If you put it in your oil, drive about 20ish miles then change your oil.
EDIT: I personally just put it in the tank and call it a day.
EDIT: I personally just put it in the tank and call it a day.
#12
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I pour about half in the tank and pour about 1\4 can down the carb and let the engine stall. Let it sit overnight. after a couple days do it again than again untill you use all the seafoam.
Everyone will have their own way of seafoaming their car.
PS do it when the car is warmed up.
Everyone will have their own way of seafoaming their car.
PS do it when the car is warmed up.
#13
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did that already with no results, the question is "will it lossen up the carbon or clean the engine so I can get more power". my carb is off now for a rebuild. but when i bought the car It would not go more than 50 mph, it wouldnt idle, and at about 4000 rpm it would start to sputter, gargle, gurgle or something like that. So when I get the car started again. I just wanted to do the atf treatment or seafoam or amsoil in which I read alot about each one per 1st gen fact page. Then I want to follow up with a steam treatment , well you know the spray bottle. I just want to make sure that the apex seals are as clean from carbon and free moving as I can get them.
Thank you very much for your input
#14
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
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did that already with no results, the question is "will it lossen up the carbon or clean the engine so I can get more power". my carb is off now for a rebuild. but when i bought the car It would not go more than 50 mph, it wouldnt idle, and at about 4000 rpm it would start to sputter, gargle, gurgle or something like that. So when I get the car started again. I just wanted to do the atf treatment or seafoam or amsoil in which I read alot about each one per 1st gen fact page. Then I want to follow up with a steam treatment , well you know the spray bottle. I just want to make sure that the apex seals are as clean from carbon and free moving as I can get them.
Thank you very much for your input
Thank you very much for your input
#15
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I believe and hope your right, Just gone done reading the carbon build up thread (again) and just might try the amsiol treatment when I am done with the rebuild( just to ensure a clean engine). after reading for a while I now realize that atf is a last resort. Im almost ready for my rebuild as I downloaded and printed all the carb manuals diagrams, pics, instructions. plus some of sterlings posts ect. I know for a fact that I have serious exaust issues because of all the exaust leaks I have and plus its all crusty.
I will save everything else for seperate threads, here I am asking a sec mech question that went to left field!! Your appreciated.
#16
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I pour about half in the tank and pour about 1\4 can down the carb and let the engine stall. Let it sit overnight. after a couple days do it again than again untill you use all the seafoam.
Everyone will have their own way of seafoaming their car.
PS do it when the car is warmed up.
Everyone will have their own way of seafoaming their car.
PS do it when the car is warmed up.
#17
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This is probably the best way to quickly decarbon an engine, but if it doesn't want to rev past 4k or go above 50 mph, and I'll take a guess that it's very slow in getting to that speed, most likely your cats are plugged up. If the exhaust isn't plugged, do a compression test.
My rx7 is a '80 model so it dont have the cat, but I took the heat exchanger and made a hole where you can see right through it. Thank you for your input.
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