Buying a first gen!
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From: Illinois
Buying a first gen!
I have owned a 87 FC which I still have I am now purchasing a 84 gsle. Its in great condition except for the front bumper... Any info on what I should look for with the 1st gen especially carberated ones>?? I am going to leave in 20 min to go do a compression test and I was woundering on where the fuel pump relay is so I can disable it... Is there anything different about compression numbers and the compression test I should know??
Thanks alot guys, Looking forward to owning my first 84 rx7!
Thanks alot guys, Looking forward to owning my first 84 rx7!
Good luck on the purchase! I have an 80, which is a bit different than the later so-called "FB" models which is the 81-85 version.
As to compression test, GREAT idea BUT you need a Mazda Rotary Engine Compression Tester, an- off the shelf unit will not tell you the health of the engine!! Means going to a rotary specialist to get this done, but $$ very well spent, since even a poor-condition engine can "seem" to be running OK once started (usually - not ALWAYS!- hard starting can be a sign the engine is cooked). Get the test. otherwise its $1500+ for a replacement. Not unusual for a rotary to blow a bit of Blue (ie oil-based) smoke on cold start. Oil is fed into the engine block as part of the oil-cooling process). White-ish smoke is another story! That indicates water seals have failed and the engine is due for a rebuild - water is collecting in the combustion chambers when the engine cools down. =Rotary death.
Other stuff??
Rust is a biggy (on any old Jap car): worst is:
-along rear hatch seal at the bottom, near the 2 drain holes - you need to open the hatch to see this - lift the edges of the seal up. Not terminal normally, but check it
-worst is rear fender behind rear wheels - virtually ALL RX7 have some degre of rust here. Amount depends on where you are - East coast vs California, for eg. Beware of recent paint jobs that cover this area. Very fixable if it hasn't gone too far, other wise it eventually runs around the whole wheel well lips = $$$$
-open hatch, pull carpet and check spare well for water/rust
-check rear suspension arm mounts in FRONT of rear wheel - if these show rust, walk away
-behind rear seat storage boxes - pull these and be sure no rust here!!! very $$$ to fix
Also, if your driving it year round, make sure the car's emissions stuff hasn't been modded or removed or you could get some grief getting it I/M'd. Depends where you live.
Sorry - I'm only hitting some high points here - should be lots of good info Archived here, plus a LOT of FB owners here who have "been there, done that" - so welcome and good luck-
whatever you get, introduce yourself and post some pics!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
As to compression test, GREAT idea BUT you need a Mazda Rotary Engine Compression Tester, an- off the shelf unit will not tell you the health of the engine!! Means going to a rotary specialist to get this done, but $$ very well spent, since even a poor-condition engine can "seem" to be running OK once started (usually - not ALWAYS!- hard starting can be a sign the engine is cooked). Get the test. otherwise its $1500+ for a replacement. Not unusual for a rotary to blow a bit of Blue (ie oil-based) smoke on cold start. Oil is fed into the engine block as part of the oil-cooling process). White-ish smoke is another story! That indicates water seals have failed and the engine is due for a rebuild - water is collecting in the combustion chambers when the engine cools down. =Rotary death.
Other stuff??
Rust is a biggy (on any old Jap car): worst is:
-along rear hatch seal at the bottom, near the 2 drain holes - you need to open the hatch to see this - lift the edges of the seal up. Not terminal normally, but check it
-worst is rear fender behind rear wheels - virtually ALL RX7 have some degre of rust here. Amount depends on where you are - East coast vs California, for eg. Beware of recent paint jobs that cover this area. Very fixable if it hasn't gone too far, other wise it eventually runs around the whole wheel well lips = $$$$
-open hatch, pull carpet and check spare well for water/rust
-check rear suspension arm mounts in FRONT of rear wheel - if these show rust, walk away
-behind rear seat storage boxes - pull these and be sure no rust here!!! very $$$ to fix
Also, if your driving it year round, make sure the car's emissions stuff hasn't been modded or removed or you could get some grief getting it I/M'd. Depends where you live.
Sorry - I'm only hitting some high points here - should be lots of good info Archived here, plus a LOT of FB owners here who have "been there, done that" - so welcome and good luck-
whatever you get, introduce yourself and post some pics!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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