Ok so while I'm replacing hoses and fluids and gaskets and such on my already running Mazda.

Me and a buddy are gonna pick up another 12A that still runs nice only 98k on it and tear it down are selves and get it ported out and redone with new gaskets and seal if need be of course.

The guy said he was going to do a motor swap into the frame so was just gonna get rid of all the old 12A stuff for some 13B stuff.
But anyways $300 is his asking price and sound pretty firm. Should I take this on and get it done up with new gaskets and such if the insides are still good?

 

can you here it Run, also if you are going to take it apart to port it you might as well do a rebuild on it

 

Yeah I can hear it. And doing a full build was almost a full decision but I could make this into a full build. Cause its going straight into my already running car and rebuilding that motor so I have a back up.

 

I just picked mine up for $200, everything was there except air pump and air cond compressor.

 

this one has everything on it but all of that will be deleted for performance of that motor basically im gonna make a race motor for the track when I feel like going on the weekends. and just a normal motor for the everyday driver until I can find another shell with a 12a thats not running and I can just swap in and use that for the DD.

I guess what im trying to say is in Burley, Idaho there are no performance rotaries around just the everyday rare rx7 fb or fc and the almost way to normal rx8's. but im gonna stay away from the street racing these days.

I have a house and a job to keep jail time and the loss of my hard work on a car is not needed. and because i've always wanted to supercharge a rotary motor with a good rebuild and a really nice porting job.

8 PSI is always acceptable with intercooler and some top notch mechanic work from my friendly local John Deer diesel mechanic. AKA my fellow rotary enthusiast.

 

For your porting, look into 74 spec. No one makes a template, but get any T2 or FD end plate (stock ported) and copy the port to a piece of paper. Then do all four of your ports 12A. Don't bother with the bottom - just change the closing timing at the top. It's the perfect port for the street and your Lolis.

 

yeah I knew about the template thing it really won't be hard to emulate one though.

if anything I could probably make a rough design of one and make one at work or something out of scrap metal to keep it looking cleaner for a port out of some thin stainless.

im assuming kinda like this? http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...ing-Tools.html

racing beat ses they make them but im assuming they are just 13b port plates?

 

Racing Beat templates are really big. You need to ask yourself: how big are the ports going to be? How big do they need to be to get the desired effect?

Maybe you think more in terms of numbers:
stock 40 degree closing
74 spec 50 degree closing
RB 60 degree closing (and they open sooner too)

The early open and late close ports give lots of overlap and lose low end torque which are replaced with peaky high end power. Not a good idea for a street driven 12A. You also MUST have a free flow exhaust and a big carb, like an RB long primary and one of their Holley carbs (or better yet a hogged Nikki) with a low restriction air filter. Ignition upgrades are in order too. Better do a light steel flywheel while you're at it.

Without these, a streetport can be slower than a stock port. Been there, done that. Your Lolis won't be happy.

 

ok I get what your saying does anyone have a build thread for something like this? I will search this up but I would love to make this motor into a street able port while getting optimal performance. cause as we speak i've been ordering exhaust that much more flowing just on the stock ports and the bonez pipe has made a small noticeable difference just on that. and with a nice rotary tune.

I will also look up some other things based on making my own templates if I have to. gotta get as close to that brap brap if you know what I mean.

 

Well then look into a bridgeport, but it won't do well on the street.

I'm wondering about a full bridge 12A on a set of irons that already have 74 spec ports. I wonder how well that would do? Probably be anoying to drive on the street. But I'd have the all important brap we all know and love!

By the way, look into long primary exhausts. They are worth it.

 

well as I have said before emissions and noise arn't normally a problem hear in burley because everyone is pretty spaced a part. so most stop hearing it. but I will look into a bridge port cause if I can get the brap brap then I will if I can just get close to it with a large enough street port with max performance.

so any help with this will probably be needed cause it will be my first time attempting it and well cars are my hobby lol so its fun. and I can't afford Atkins rotary rebuild job and porting cause that's way to much cash. xD

 

and I have had 2 years of thought for this so its not a real spur of the moment kind of thing. but I know more now then I did back then and I just feel I'm ready to learn more hands on then just keep on reading about these things.

research will be given heavy priority even after I get the motor and get it all tore down and ready to go. for a rebuild.

im still gonna do an oil cooler job so its not the beehive setup and try to get in general better air flowing into the motor.

lots of fun things for me to do.