Is there anything I should know before I cut the remainder off and heli-coil? The autozone rental stud extractor is a joke, btw. I put it on, turned it until it tightened, put a wrench on it, and it made it about a 1/4 turn before it took the threads off. After that it wouldn't work anymore. I found a correct stud to put back into it, but can I get a helicoil in a 10mm 1.5 thread? My main worry is if there's enough block material back there in case I go too far, and if the stud is acting as any sort of coolant or oil seal?? Thanks for any help. I will be drilling in the morning, as soon as I can find a correct size heli coil. Geeeeeez, what a PITA this has become, lol.

 

weld a big nut to it and turn it with a wrench.

 

Wouldnt that bend the stud?

I would just use a hack saw to cut off the tip.

 

I was about to say. If a wrench and a cheater bar snapped it off anyway, wouldn't it do the same thing again, only closer to the block. That would get me closer to my goal, but harder than a high speed cutoff wheel. That does get me thinking about welding the end of a new stud to the
old one? Use a washer or two to clear the bad spot. I will probably end up cutting it flush, and drilling it. Won't be near as bad as drilling out the headless wheel bolt at least. That was about 1.5 of solid steel. This is only 1/2 inch or so.

 

why retap it if you dont have to?
that is how i usually get them off if they break, then you just put in a new factory stud.
it works, trust me.

 

Come on now dude you could run at least three out of the 4 and still be okay and still have not exhuast leak, and no those damn studs don't hold back coolant or oil.

 

After snapping a stud in the engine block that held the exhaust manifold on,
for the longest time three nuts held the exhaust manifold on. Using Indian Head Gasket Sealer, letting it sit over night before assembly, it formed a good seal. Good enough to pass NJ vehicle inspection. To test the exhaust, they block it off until the engine dies.

Later I removed the broken stud with vice grips. Turn it as you would to remove a nut.

 

When you weld a nut on whats left of the stud, the heat breaks the galvanic corrosion bond between the 2 disimiliar metals.

Nicholas, either go to bed or, read more and post less.

Teddy, I have yet to find a set of headers that won't leak with only 3 studs and nuts.

 

This man knows what he speaks of.I used the same method on my broken studs a few years ago,and it worked great.The only other thing I had to do was when the stud came out it messed up the treads some so I drilled it out a bit,and used the proper heli-coil which I still have,and could get the original poster a part number off it.Drilling the stud out is a royal pain,and I have always had bad luck with it.Get the old crusty stud out,and go from there,it will be much better in the long run.

While all the other methods may be viable,this method is the best as long as you have enough stud still sticking out of the block to weld to.Good luck.


Chris

 

Yeah, I have enough stud to weld to, but what kept the stud from coming out originally? Does welding on it actually break the bond? I have this one day to mess with it, and then I have to wait til next Saturday to have time for it. I would almost rather trim some off and weld a new stud end onto the broken one. I have the angle magnet to get it straight. I dunno, I guess I am just wanting to avoid drilling and heli-coiling it.


The thing that gets me is that all of the studs had perfect threads on them. bare steel, no crusty crap at all? Even the one that broke? Makes me sick, lol. The header could have been installed already, and I could be at the exhaust shop. Oh well.....

 

Well first off the stud isn't supposed to come out of the block under normal conditions,and secondly the stud is stuck in there because of the bond between the steel of the stud,and the aluminum housing it is threaded into.Factor in 24 years of heat cycling from the hot exhaust port that is about 2" away from the stud,and you have a recipe for a stuck stud.


The welding trick works the same as heating up just the stud which is tough to do,by breaking the bond of the 2 dissimilar metals.When I did mine I waited just long enough for the weld to cool,and hold,but the stud was still hot,and I cranked it out.Like I said it did mess up the treads a bit,and I probably could have gotten away with not drilling,tapping,and heli-coiling the block,but I didn't want to take the chance.I did all this with the engine in the car by the way which is a bit ahrder than with it on a bench,or stand.Good luck with what ever method you use,but I believe Trochoid's idea of welding is the best.I just wish I had asked him,or knew of this site a long time ago when I went through my ordeal.I had to figure this method out on my own.

Chris

 

As if anything else could go wrong, I just ran out of welding wire on the first arc. I thought it was stuck to the nozzle as usual, so I pulled on it with a set of pliers. Zip!!! There comes 4 feeet of wire, lol. Now it is threatening to rain of course. Somebody really doesn't like me. Sigh........

 

rainin here too. Just the type of rain that drizzles for a day or two, annoying and wont go away.

 

Okay, what's the next great idea? I welded a 3/4" nut onto it, and all it did was break off closer to the block. So the rotor housing is aluminum? That gives the bit a good chance of follwing the path of least resistance, and messing up a housing. Awesome. Looks like I am getting closer and closer to rebuilding an engine with good compression. F***!! Sorry, just looks really hopeless right now.

 

Just use a 9/16 cobalt drill bit and some wd-40 and an afternoon with a drill and some new bolts and nuts your good to go!

 

When two studs broke on my 20B RIGHT NEXT TO THE ALUMINUM of the rotor housing, I had no choice but to drill a small hole and insert an extractor. They came out without too much difficulty. The only hard part was drilling through the stainless steel of the studs.

Midwest 7's's comment about using factory studs is correct. They thread right in. No need for all the complicated procedures mentioned elsewhere in this thread.

 

Oh well, it's done, just like I feared. The drill bit is walking all over the place, and went off into the aluminum. I stopped right there, and dropped it off the jackstands. Maybe if I get rich sometime in the next lifetime, I can afford to have the engine yanked apart. As far my tries, they're overwith. F***ing piece of junk. Last day before the exhaust install, and a possible inspection, and time to start all over again.......


Disgusted enough to unsubscribe, so no further replies needed. Thanks for the help....

 

Wow, you're giving up after only that? Good luck in life.

 

Yeah, thanks for the insult. If you saw this, you'd throw it in too, and wait til you had the money for a rebuild. Sorry I forgot to hit unsubscribe. Good luck in your life buddy. Now stop adding insult to injury!~!

 

x

 

If its already built maybe you can put it on somone elses car. The exhaust is easy to take off and put back on.

 

Hmm, I just broke off 3 of my studs holding my turbos on. each had been sprayed with PB blaster and sat overnight.

Going to have a heck of a time with these housings once this engine is torn down. Was hoping they'd still be good. But we'll see. a drill press will be my friend.

 

I did mine with a hand drill and an easy out. The engine was still assembled.

The problem with turbo exhaust nuts is the crimped end on them. No amount of PB blaster will reduce the physical clamping pressure on the studs. Some breakage is bound to occur.

You can either let it defeat you, as seen in this thread, or you can get to work and get 'er done. (I can't believe I said that)