I went to the rotary shop today and got new coils put in, and found out that my leading module wasn't working! I thought great! Now I know why its been spluttering above 6000rpm. HOW WRONG I WAS! I spent $190 today at the shop and its still running like a dog at high rpm. And only in 1st and 2nd gear. Its ok when its cold, as in the motor is just warmed up and I give it some. But as soon as I give it some when I've been driving for more then 15mins it splutters. The bloke at the shop said it might be a timing problem, as when the motor is cool, the timing is ok, but once they heat up its no good? Is this true? I don't want to spend more money on something thats no causing the problem. I'm going back tomorrow to see the head bloke coz he knows more (apparantly). Pleeeeeeassssssseee help you all you rotary guru's, this problem is making me tear my hair out. All I want to do is be able to take those shitty chevy's off the line. When I first got this car it didnt seem so bad, but this could of been due to me driving it much slower.

Sorry for the long post, this car is really starting to turn me off rotaries, but I luv them so much and couldn't bare to part with this car.

In need of help,
Heb.

 

Good luck with beating much of ANYTHING off the line.

 

i dont get ur post Tanjo, I mean sure these dont have the greatest torque, but my -se could take a few cars off the line. A BP should be able to take a good few off the line

 

I like to LET the other guy beat me off the line just to see the look on his face when I blow by at the top of 2nd.

But it sounds like it may be a bent distributor shaft, if in fact your rotary mechanic knows diddly.

 

Could be timing, or it could be a fuel issue. When was the last time the car was tuned/jetted? Could you give us a little more info on your setup?

-Marques

 

I don't think its been tuned/jetted/dyno'd for over a year. I'm running holley fuel pump, into a regulator at 4 1/2 psi, 10mm fuel line, into a 465 holley. I dont know the jetting on it or the timing. I'm hoping its the timing so it can be fixed tomorrow.

so frustrating...

 

Is it a Racing Beat (4 holes all the way up) intake manifold?

If so, is it a Racing Beat-modified carb?

It sounds to me like it might be running too rich. Colder engines prefer richer mixtures than hot ones.

Holley carbs that have not been specially modified will run like *** on a "independent runner" intake manifold like the one Racing Beat sells. They run progressively richer the higher up you rev.

 

I too think its a carb problem. Running too lean is my best guess. Runs well when cold -good mix (w/ choke) then starves for fuel at high RPMS. Its hard to give too deliver too much gas at high RPMs esp w/ rev-happy rotarys.
BTW: running too lean is the best way to fry your engine.

 

Holleys like 6 psi fuel pressure under load. You might be sucking the bowls dry at high rpm. I would recommend bumping it up to 6psi. If your carb floods out after that then it needs to be rebuilt.

 

Do our cars have fuel regulators stock? If not has anyone used aftermarket ones? If so where did you get it and how do you like it?

 

The stock regulator is in the pump.

If it was an insufficient fuel volume problem, it wouldn't really occur in the first two gears, and it would be MORE prevalent when cold, because colder engines need more fuel.

Likewise, ignition problems usually surface when the engine is cold, unless it's a problem like a bad module (ignitor), but it doesn't really sound like that.

Since it's a problem when warm, it makes sense that if the engine were overrich at the top end, it would be OK when the engine is cold.

Plus, Holley carbs are known to run super pig rich at the top end under the conditions I listed above.

 

Well, it was alays my undertanding that BPs add power way up high, not down low. And what cars can you beat off the line? Other than stock Hondas and such. I cant even beat my freinds 92 Explorer off the line.

 

just rev it to 5-6k and drop the clutch. With good tires you will take a good few off the line

 

More like they add power *everywhere*.

They just run like **** at part throttle.

 

Alright then. I stand corrected. And when I race, I just put my foot to the floor until it beeps at me, then drop the clutch. But my tires do kinda suck.

 

Double post. Somehow....

 

I wouldn't redline it before dropping the clutch. Just try different rpms and see what's the optimum one for your tires. Be advised though, your clutch's life will be shortened and the cops will turn their heads your way...

 

The only time I do anything even remotely illeagal is when there are NO other cars in sight.

 

Does timing move out of position over time? A bloke said to me that things wear and it needs to be adjusted from time to time?

heb.

 

^Alright that all makes sense. If it is running mega rich at high rpm then the holley needs tuning. Has it been modified for replacable air bleeds? Bigger air bleeds for leaner high end, smaller for richer. Perhaps the main jets are a tad rich as well.

Do you have anymore info on the carb itself?

 

no sorry, all I know is that it has been jetted and tuned by someone the previous owner took it too. Its very nice to drive, doesn't jerk on acceleration or anything. Its setup hasnt changed since it was dyno'd. (years ago). Thats why the only other thing I thought it could be is timing. I don't know if timing goes out and needs adusting from time to time?

heb

 

If you want to beat chevy's off the line you need to get a 5.0

 

I still beat 8's off the line, until I hit 7grand in 2nd and it sounds like my rotor is having a teary. 4grand and dump the clutch (racing clutch) 205 yokohamas get me off the line quick. but I'd like to express 8000rpm to ppl.

 

Swap the Coils, and see if it continues. It might be an internally damaged coil.

 

The carb could need a rebuild. Rebuilding a holley is extremely easy though. Setting the timing is easy too, you can do it in two minutes. You are sure you are getting spark from all four plugs correct?

-Marques