Ok so initially I thought it was a fuel starvation issue due to under high load she studders acting like she's getting fuel intermittently. Tested fuel to the rail while running and did find it lower than last year around 28psi and DOWN to 22 psi at 6000 rpm (both readings are in neutral under no load). Stupid me I didn't keep it hooked up and look at it on a short drive. Anyways just to make sure it was everything but my fuel pump I replaced the fuel filter, checked the inline filter in my fuel pump itself (which it was gone anyways) and dropped my tank. I then replaced the pickup filter (which for 23 years old didn't look too bad) and the fuel lines. VERY hard to find 1/2" efi line! Mine had no splits in it but wrapped it with 3 layers of electrical tape to make sure and replaced the hose clamps. Slight improvement but still studders. Mind you I haven't taken a new reading.

For intrigue I performed the ohm test on air flow meter, practically the only thing I haven't replaced or upgraded on this car yet. All the ohms tests were within its windows except the temp which was a bit off. Keep in mind the windows for ohms tests are ridiculous like 800-2000 ohms.... The last test calls for a certain amount of ohms when the flapper is closed and a certain when closed. Passed. But since I know how it works I got an idea. I got out my cheap analog $8 mulitmeter from walmart out and did the last test over again and watched the needle. It is supposed to progressively smoothly go up. Guess what? It bounced all over the place! At 3/4 open it was back down to the same amount of ohms as at idle!

Ordered a new, well, rebuilt AFM from Python injection technologies. I trust them more than most of these other remans. They also make performance parts and ecu rebuilds. Check it out.

So if you own an SE or know someone with a 86-88 similar issues, I suggest you do the same.


http://www.wankel.net/%7Ekrwright/fi...ns_13B.pdfwith

http://www.python-injection.com/

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...pe=473&PTSet=A

 

i talked to a guy who used to own a gslse at the autocross and he said that he rebuilt the afm and that variable resistor needle thing.

 

dont have the time and trust myself with modifying/fixing my daily drivers main component.

 

"The last test calls for a certain amount of ohms when the flapper is closed and a certain when closed."

edit--the last test calls for a certain amount of ohms when the flapper is closed and a certain when its wide open. To do the test you place the leads of the ohmmeter and slowly open the flapper...its supposed to gradually go up...mine bounced all over the place

 

For future refrence DO NOT buy a python rebuilt AFM!!! After 3 returns each one made the car run WORSE.... I tested each one using the same tests and 2 out of the 3 rebuilt ones were worse than my OEM