Brakes...what..the...fu.....
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Brakes...what..the...fu.....
Oooooo kayy..............
.......
..........Problems....
Well...I jacked up the car and took off the right wheel. Um...do all 1980 models have this kind of rotor installed? Wtf is this? lol...
I don't know how to KNOW if my brake system is not working properly, that only half of my brakes are working. But I think my rotors are warped, which is why it makes that scratchy metal sound when the wheel turns against the brake pad.
I took pics of the oil reservoir, too. It's full...all the metal pipes that come out from it are strong through and through, no holes, no nothing. Im beat.
Oh yeah...another thing. CAN I do a Cosmo swap on this 1980 model? I see a LOT of ppl with GSL's and I want to know what i'm missing out on. Other than swapping in my engine, are there any suspension difference or add ons like 4 wheel disc brakes?
Thanks for ANY help you can support me with.
.......
..........Problems....
Well...I jacked up the car and took off the right wheel. Um...do all 1980 models have this kind of rotor installed? Wtf is this? lol...
I don't know how to KNOW if my brake system is not working properly, that only half of my brakes are working. But I think my rotors are warped, which is why it makes that scratchy metal sound when the wheel turns against the brake pad.
I took pics of the oil reservoir, too. It's full...all the metal pipes that come out from it are strong through and through, no holes, no nothing. Im beat.
Oh yeah...another thing. CAN I do a Cosmo swap on this 1980 model? I see a LOT of ppl with GSL's and I want to know what i'm missing out on. Other than swapping in my engine, are there any suspension difference or add ons like 4 wheel disc brakes?
Thanks for ANY help you can support me with.
#2
FB+FC=F-ME
Those are normal, stock front brakes.Only the GSL-SE had bigger brakes.
Disc brakes make a bit of noise simply by design,but if its really scratchy,then you might need to change the pads.Just look at the pad where it contacts the rotor.The pad material should be more than 1/8" thick or you need to change them.
If you dont know this much already,then you should either study up or leave it to someone who does.Simply because brakes are life and you dont want to mess it up......
Disc brakes make a bit of noise simply by design,but if its really scratchy,then you might need to change the pads.Just look at the pad where it contacts the rotor.The pad material should be more than 1/8" thick or you need to change them.
If you dont know this much already,then you should either study up or leave it to someone who does.Simply because brakes are life and you dont want to mess it up......
#4
Originally Posted by woodonastick
hmm, my 85 gs rotors looks like that...is that normal? or are my front sa's??? cuz if they are..i got really screwd
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i guess i have to use sa front brakes... no wonder my fb brake rotors didn't fit...
unless...anyone have extra 84-85 gs front sus just laying around???
ill be glad to take them off your hards
unless...anyone have extra 84-85 gs front sus just laying around???
ill be glad to take them off your hards
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i don't...i got it from a tow yard kinda...it had a clean title according to carfaxs, but it had a large gash on the passenger fender. wat i believe is they messed up the whole thing, and replaced it with an sa's front spindle. i bought a 85 rotor and bearings, but i couldn't put them on. too big. so now do i need ot change the whole sus? or just hte spindle??
ill get osme pics of it later.
ill get osme pics of it later.
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What makes you think only half of your brakes are working? Do your parking brake work? The rear drum brakes on the 79 (and likely the 80, and possible on all others with rear drums) are not self adjusting, so you have to manually push the shoes out so they are closer to the drum. If the rears haven't been adjusted in a while, they won't do any good. As far as the fronts making noise, some times the pads just don't like the rotors or vise versa, and they'll be loud, but stop fine. If it bothers you, you could change out one or both.
#10
Originally Posted by woodonastick
i don't...i got it from a tow yard kinda...it had a clean title according to carfaxs, but it had a large gash on the passenger fender. wat i believe is they messed up the whole thing, and replaced it with an sa's front spindle. i bought a 85 rotor and bearings, but i couldn't put them on. too big. so now do i need ot change the whole sus? or just hte spindle??
ill get osme pics of it later.
ill get osme pics of it later.
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no, its just htat i already have fb rotors. seems like i need to let them go unless i can find a fb spindle...i plan to road race it. i need to keep up with my friends fc's...wat would be easier, just getting another set of rotors? or a new spindle?
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just gonna go as daily and autoX eventually. im low on funds and already bought 84-85 rotors and 1 set of bearings. so yea..kinda wasted, unless someone has a set of new rotors and thats willing to trade or sell to me cheap? haha
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So...back to MY question. What should i do about my car? Since the brakes are working very softly...should I....
Buy new rotors and brake pads?
Buy a new spindle? (whatever the hell that is)
I dunno...help me out?
Buy new rotors and brake pads?
Buy a new spindle? (whatever the hell that is)
I dunno...help me out?
#18
sorry bout the thread hijack there. NOt sure what exactly the problem is for sure but ALWAYS check the cheap stuff fix, like they said bleed the damn things. like Ians said what makes you think only half are working? give us all the detail you can, i'm assuming you have drums on the rear?
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I never said it either...it was yark..but in any case...yes i DO have drums in the rear. I'm planning on getting a 1982 entire rear kit with LSD rotors, calipers, the works. But...before I even buy that...i'm going to bleed the system. But, uh...how do I bleed it?
#21
drums are the devil. I would suggest ya invest in a haynes manual for your car, cheap book and tells ya how to do lots of repairs (I.E. bleeding brakes) But you can look it up online i'm sure. Will be the same as any other car. Basics are pump brake pedal and hold, then have someone open the nipple things on the drums for real and caliper for front. the pedal will go down to floor. ***then close tighethen nipple. Repeat until no more bubbles come out of the system...should be all brake fluid. Have a rag handy brake fluid is nasty stuff if it gets all over. Sorry for the crappiest how-to in the world. This should help ya get the general idea... just google it for a better tutorial i'm sure.
#22
love the braaaap
Whatever you do, do NOT take apart the rear brakes without having a shop manual handy. I got stuck doing a brake job on an Aerostar once and couldn't remember how they went back together. Took me 2 days to figure them out. NEVER take apart drum brakes without a manual.
#23
FD > FB > FC
OR just take one side apart at a time so you have the pther side to see how it goes back together.
The Drum brakes are more or less the same as everything else out there.
You dont need a god damn manual to do do some drum brakes. Mabey for some specs, but thats it. Just make sure you have a brake drum tool set.
While your down there with the brake drums, its a very good idea to make sure your wheel cylinders arent leaking.
You can check this by using a pick or a small screw driver to lift one of the boots on the wheel cylinder. If you see any fluid in there or it just come gsuhing out, replace the wheel cylinders one BOTH SIDES.
By the way, when you do the rear disc swap, your going to need to get the master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake lines as well. the master cylinder and proportioning valve are different for rear disc setups, and the FB's (81-85) have a different thread pitch on the brake lines. Probably means you gotta get new rubber lines for the font calipers as well, oh and you need to get the handbrake cables as well
The Drum brakes are more or less the same as everything else out there.
You dont need a god damn manual to do do some drum brakes. Mabey for some specs, but thats it. Just make sure you have a brake drum tool set.
While your down there with the brake drums, its a very good idea to make sure your wheel cylinders arent leaking.
You can check this by using a pick or a small screw driver to lift one of the boots on the wheel cylinder. If you see any fluid in there or it just come gsuhing out, replace the wheel cylinders one BOTH SIDES.
By the way, when you do the rear disc swap, your going to need to get the master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake lines as well. the master cylinder and proportioning valve are different for rear disc setups, and the FB's (81-85) have a different thread pitch on the brake lines. Probably means you gotta get new rubber lines for the font calipers as well, oh and you need to get the handbrake cables as well