Brakes
#1
The Rotorheaded Geek
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Brakes
Ok, very simply, all of you guys w/ engine mods or switch outs, what kinda brakes are you running?? I have the drums in the read and disk in the front and am wondering if it is worth while to look for the brake system out of a 4 wheel disk car. Read sig for car info as to what I am running.
#2
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Unless you plan on running terminal velocities in excess of 100 mph ALL the time, a simple change to Hawk pads is usually all that's necessary in regards to brake upgrades. There's a reason you don't see big brake upgrades for 1stgen street RX-7's. The stock system is surprisingly good because of the car's light weight. A change to SS hoses will give a better pedal "feel" but the rest is unnecessary unless you plan on racing the beast or do a lot of road courses...
#4
Absolute Power is Awesome
I agree with Mar3. The HPS pads are very effective. I'd also add that one of the most important braking components on the car are the tires. A good set of sticky summer tires can make a HUGE difference in braking as well as handling grip.
Then again, the rear disks are much cooler looking than the drums if not much more effective, and you get LSD if you make the complete axle swap which is important with a higher power motor.
Then again, the rear disks are much cooler looking than the drums if not much more effective, and you get LSD if you make the complete axle swap which is important with a higher power motor.
#6
back with rotaries
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ill probably disagree with you guys because i try a rex with drums and didnt stop as near as my car that is vented disk allway around. my car stop faster that with one with drums and for turbo i will recomend to have four wheels disk brakes for those 100+ MPH stops
Last edited by eddierotary; 04-27-03 at 04:13 PM.
#7
Absolute Power is Awesome
Originally posted by OtakuRX
I know, but then I would have to change the master cylinder to keep the front rear psi ratios right
I know, but then I would have to change the master cylinder to keep the front rear psi ratios right
ill probably disagree with you guys because i try a rex with drums and didnt stop as near as my car that is vented disk allway around. my car stop faster that with one with drums and for turbo i will recomend to have four wheels disk brakes for those 100+ MPH stops
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#10
Never Follow
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Originally posted by purple82
My mechanic did my swap. He told me the part numbers are the same for the GSL (disk) or other models (drum) for the master cylinder and the brake proportioning valve.
Every magazine artical I've ever read shows there's no difference in stopping distance. Brake feel is a different story.
My mechanic did my swap. He told me the part numbers are the same for the GSL (disk) or other models (drum) for the master cylinder and the brake proportioning valve.
Every magazine artical I've ever read shows there's no difference in stopping distance. Brake feel is a different story.
And yes, your right, rear drums are just fine for stopping distance, but the pedal feel blows ***, and they look gay as hell.
#13
Go to www.raceshopper.com for the best prices on Hawk pads - and let them know Jacob CLoud sent ya, so I can get a discount next time I order! I've had 100% satisfaction from them. Like he says - if you want tires, order from tirerack. If you want pads, order from him! His prices and customer service embarass those of tirecrack.com.
#15
Rotary Freak
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I got these front Powerslots on my SE now...with Hawk+ all around.
Jim...no need to pick up shims or install kit.. as long as your old brake hardware is in good shape. BTW the Hawks are the same $ as the OEM stocks...I got mine from tirerack for $55 for the front and I think $45 for rears.
Stops and locks wheels as needed.
Jim...no need to pick up shims or install kit.. as long as your old brake hardware is in good shape. BTW the Hawks are the same $ as the OEM stocks...I got mine from tirerack for $55 for the front and I think $45 for rears.
Stops and locks wheels as needed.
#17
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I think I am going with the hawk hp's.
I flushed my entire brake fluid yesterday and refilled with dot 4 fluid, mush better feel already.
I guess I never thought about changing the break fluid before, next will be the clutch fluid.
P.S. the old fluid was brown, I do not think that was good, and would explain the poor braking. lol
I flushed my entire brake fluid yesterday and refilled with dot 4 fluid, mush better feel already.
I guess I never thought about changing the break fluid before, next will be the clutch fluid.
P.S. the old fluid was brown, I do not think that was good, and would explain the poor braking. lol
#18
Rotary Freak
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Front rotors= $255.. Steel braided lines= $110 ..ability to stop on a dime= priceless...which lead to my lil accident with the drunk driver last month who couldn't stop on time and rear ended my bumper...now I'm haggling with the insurance on the value of my SE.. it's worth a bit more than THAT!.. It'll be off to the bodyshop in a couple weeks.. I need a new body kit and paint to match the new brakes.
#19
Ryan
hahaha.. good luck w/ the insurance co. AL i want slotted all around though. $320 was my price for all four slotted roters and all four pads. What do you think? How much are rear slotted?
#20
Rotary Freak
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Were they for powerslots?? I kinda got ripped by Mariah b/c I could have gotten cheaper (after I already placed my order..) from a place down in SD.. I think the fronts are like 80-85 each only.. $320 for powerslots all around and pads is a GREAT deal!! But you don't really need slotted for the rear (20% braking duty), unless it's for the bling factor! But for $320 go for it!
#22
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
I think there are more of us that may be interested in PowerSlot or another brand of brake rotors, if the price is right. Please keep us informed. Thanks,
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