plentymoon

ok guys I normally don't have brake problems but it seems i'm having some. I'm going to to buy new brake calipers but should I replace my brake booster just in case that's whats flat lining my brakes?

this all happened after I replaced my brake pads so I'm really not doubting if the calipers need to be replaced.

Before anyone ses anything like did you bleed your brakes of course I did the brake fluid is so clean its like having a new reservoir after we spent an hour making sure everything was bled out perfectly.

any thoughts?

oh and I was wondering about wheel spacing and studs what are our options for these older rx7's does anyone make new spacers and stud setups.

i'm gong to search around a bit on the spacing and stuff but I've mostly seen people just making there own setups.

cause going with my own turbo setup.
I would like to get lowered and get some bigger nicer wheels on or just as good what is the best choice in wheels as well. I know this one sounds kind of stupid and I have been offered this option to just cut my springs but i'm not sure about it I saw the https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...canada-972140/ for member DMclean in Canada where he got his really low now I don't want to go that low but I do want to get lower to the ground without fearing bumps (to bad I already fear them.) should I do this or just save up for coilovers?

dee242

hole inbreak line

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

New calipers, why? Unless your losing fluid past the piston seals, but they can be re-built. If your limp pedal is due to losing fluid, it has to be going somewhere, where's the puddle or drip? Thats the first thing to look for. Sometimes it can leak past the master clinder piston and run down the inside of the fire wall under the carpet in the drivers footwell. Sounds like you just want to change out components looking for a solution w/out really diagnoising the problem. I'd bet you really don't have it bled properly. Doesn't matter how many hours you spend bleeding it, it has to be done properly and with out a very detailed description or being there, its hard to say what you might be doing wrong.

WJM ROTARIES

Sounds like your master cyl has collapsed .Needs replacing or rebuilding

plentymoon

its hard to bleed brakes wrong when you have one mechanic friend who knows more then me about brake and how to bleed them.

Also there's no puddle to see just my standard oil drip every line looked intact I checked for all this already i'm just making my honest guess.

trust me on this part when I say I don't have money to spend on just swapping parts so don't make it sound like i'm just playing around and i'm asking for an excuse this is not my first time doing brakes or a brake job for that matter.

I'm stumped and that's the truth if you can't really be helpful get out of my thread or be nice. we have gone back and looked at things trying to come to a conclusion but its either calipers failed on me or my brake booster failed on me.

I will however go back and look again after work and make sure of a few things since I have to replace my oil pan gasket anyways.

Kaaarl12a

iTrader: (6)

Did you make sure to bleed the master cylinder lines at the master cylinder?

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

before buying new calipers, why not test them first? do the cylinders move and grab onto the rotors when you press the brake pedal? my only experience w/ a dead pedal would be because of air in the lines.

plentymoon

Kaaaar i cant remember off the top of my head right now since im at work. But i will make sure of this.

Craaaaaazy i will check them whe i jack my car back up and take my front tires and make sure they are working.


Now what im feeling since we replaced the pads is that if i really and i mean really press on the brakes hard they just might grab a tiny bit on the rotors. It seems. Before i had changed my brakes they worked some what like they had pressure but it released if you held them in for more then 4 seconds which at the time for me was air in the system bleed with all new fluid changed to new pads never got them working again.

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

Typically you can get a fairly firm pedal by pumping the brake pedal repeatly when you have an air bubble somewhere in the system. If this is what happens on your car, you still have air in the system. You need to bleed it again.

If the pedal falls to the floor and or pumping the brakes does not firm up the pedal, you have fluid leak. When a master cylinder fails it will often leak into the booster so there may be no visible signs of fluid.

Questions.

Did you open the bleeders on the calpers to compress the pistons so that the new pads could be installed? If you did, you will need to bleed the system at the calibers. but not the master cylinder.

Did you remove the calibers from the car? If you did, make sure that the Left caliper is on the left side of the car....and the same with the right side. If you mixed the calipers side to side you will not be able to get the air out of the calipers no matter what you do.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

You know, when you're asking other, more knowledgeable people to help you with a problem you can't solve yourself, you will generally want to treat them with a little more respect than you are showing here.

At least, if you want people to actually help you.

Just a suggestion.

plentymoon

And i understand that but where he in my opinion came off more rude then helpful. But thats my opinion of it if he wants to make it sound like im just bitching thats fine but to make come off like i didnt bleed this or didnt bleed that doesnt help me either. I had only mentiond and i have a few times my brake booster is the stock one same goes for master and slave how they still work im not to sure.

But i do apolozise for coming of rude myself however if your first instict is ti critisize first and he helpful last i would more or less appteciate it.

Now back to topic at hand I rechecked my brake lines and no signs of leaking looked down my fire wall and no signs of leaking or dripping. Where elde should i check just to be certain.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Actually, I was being nice and trying to point you in the right direction. The facts you state in your problem did not match the direction you appeared "convinced" to follow. Drips and / or puddles indicate a leak. No drip or puddle most likely means its not beld properly.

An obivous area to look for fluid is the floor, not so obvious is inside the cabin in the drivers foot well or (if you don't have rear disks) at the wheel clyinder inside the brake drum (which usually ends up making it way to the floor) Again, I have to go against what you said up front it couldn't be. Based on you description of the problem, I don't believe its bled propery.

plentymoon

ok I apologize however I still don't understand probably because we tried bleeding them again just in case we did do it wrong it got stiff to a point and we went to test them and they flat lined again.

we are making sure to fill the tank before it gets to the low line on it how can we still be bleeding it wrong?

also the calipers are working but still not getting to much of a result I'm thinking i'm gonna crawl under neath it again and check one more time cause this is bumming me out.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Is the fluid level dropping between the time you finish bleeding and when they flatline under test?

If yes, that fluid has to be going somewhere. If no, then odds are the master cylinder piston is bypassing & needs a rebuild.

You might try, under safe testing conditions, disconnecting the booster & operating with 'manual' brakes. You'll want to block the line that goes to the engine, and leave the booster connection uncapped. Braking will be much harder, but it will give you an idea if this is a hydraulic problem or a booster problem.

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

No apology necessary. I know that bleeding brakes is a pain in the ****, sometimes a hit or miss black art, even for the experienced. I bought a handy little bleeder a few years ago that has been worth its weight in gold. Makes it a one man job, almost fool proof. I have a car in sitting in storage that the pedal went to the floor during a routien startup. Thought I was going to need to rebuild the master but whiped out the trusty bleeder and hit it at the master, then the rear circuit and both fronts for good measure and "walaah" baby got pedal again. I still don't know the exact reason for the problem in the first place. You can also buy speed bleeders, that replace the stock bleed nipples.

One-Person Brake Bleeder - Specialty Tools - Tools - Griot's Garage

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Looks a lot like the Harbor Freight one I have. I've noticed I have to crank the air up pretty high for it to work though. Maybe I'm using it wrong.

Brake Fluid Bleeder

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Thats what i have and yes, you need to crank up the air to max for it work properly. i use it all the time since i prefer new fluid all around instead of just bench bleeding. In fact, i fucked up recentnly when i used a dot4 fluid on an older vehicle; no matter how i bled it, the brake felt so spongy. I used the HF kit to suck out the dot4 fluid.

craaaazzy

iTrader: (9)

oh wow, i've never seen these before. i'm only familiar with the pressure bleeders. interesting. thanks for sharing.

plentymoon

fluid is staying the same after we fill it back up and take out for a test. I'm going to go with this option for now and see if it does fix the problem great if it doesn't I will try all other things the same and all will be taken into consideration.

for now i'm going to let the car sit tonight and come back after work tomorrow and tamper with the sumbish.

plentymoon

i'm gonna do
Dives Idea first because all the stuff in my engine bay are stock parts.
Master, Slave, and brake booster all look to be original this car was not driven very hard in its life time. (Police Driven for 30 years or so). and I know that because I still have the original paper work even the dealership ones xD man gas was cheap back then D:

anyways if getting it rebuilt or replaced fixes my problem I will be happy if not I will invest in a speed bleeder.

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

Is there a reason not to use dot4 fluid in our cars? Ever since I changed to dot4 I have been having brake issues. Never thought it would be the fluid....

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

My bad it was DOT 5, not 4. But on my old school and SA/FB, i have been using the blended DOT 3/4 with no issues and i have not tried DOT 4