1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Brake, cooling system and rear suspension questions

Old Feb 10, 2003 | 11:51 PM
  #1  
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Brake, cooling system and rear suspension questions

My '79 GS is having some braking problems. If you press the pedal down, it usually goes right to the floor and doesn't provide much braking force, but sometimes if I press the pedal a couple of times, the brakes engage at a reasonable point during the pedal travel and have good stopping force.

Source? I'm inclined to think that there's air in the lines or something like that. I'm not losing fluid any fluid from the system.

As for my cooling system, it's working too well! My RX doesn't warm up fully any more. The needle goes past the first line and touches the solid bar, but doesn't go up to ~1/4 of the gauge, like it used to. Sometimes I can smell coolant in the cabin, but not much. I don't seem to be losing any coolant.

As for this problem, I figure it's the thermostat, but I'm not sure. If it is the thermostat, I need to get an OEM Mazda part right? I seem to recall that there are some problems with the generic ones.

My rear suspension is having trouble with bumps. Depending on the severity of the road, the back end of the car drops rather rapidly and sometimes hits the bump stops. I just installed new KYB GR-2's and the problem was somewhat alleiviated, but not solved. I suppose the springs should be on my list of suspects now, but again, I'm open to opinions, hopefully ones that don't involve the fairly high cost of replacing my springs.

What do you guys think?
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Old Feb 11, 2003 | 12:10 AM
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Brake: Your brake master cylinder is dead. Has to be changed. It's a good time to also check the rotors/calipers/drums/shoes to make sure they are all working like they are suppose to.

Coolant: It's probably your thermostat stock open. I wouldn't buy anything other than Mazda OEM stuff.

Suspension: Bottoming out it most likely your springs. They are not too expensive as they can be bought for around $100+ for both rear ones and really simple to change.

Good luck.
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Old Feb 11, 2003 | 12:31 AM
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Matt, bleed for air bubbles and have the master cylinder checked.

As for cooling, if you've been driving in this Saskatoon weather lately, it's no WONDER the rad is overcooling. My 'tona is doing the same thing. Try the cardboard-over-1/2-the-rad trick (preferably the top half) like the other hicks - I mean locals - do to their 'pickmeup' trucks.
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Old Feb 11, 2003 | 05:05 PM
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for the braking problem, check the master cylinder ALONG with a few other things. first is the easiest to check and fix. make sure your brake lines are not kinked anywhere as this could cause a soft pedal. the fact that you said when pumping the pedal it builds up pressure, could possibly be the booster. now most people (including me) would think that a failing booster would cause a hard pedal, however, this was the case last season on my dads race car, and it turned out to be the booster. master cylinders are cheap at an auto zone and can be returned if it doesnt work properly. and there a bitch to bleed.
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Old Feb 11, 2003 | 11:46 PM
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Ive had my 83 for about 3 months now, and my braking is exactly the same way. Are you sure there is a problem?
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Old Feb 12, 2003 | 04:42 AM
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Brakes - I'd definately start with a bleed of the system, then check the cylinder. I reckon you'll find that the bleed will cure the prob.

Cooling - Probably the thermostat. You buy an OEM part because it's a two stage thermo, that works slightly differently to a normal thermostat. If you've never bought one before be prepared because they are more expensive.

Suspension - Springs. And they're cheaper than shocks (usually), so that should fix your prob.

Originally posted by Rotary Revolution
Ive had my 83 for about 3 months now, and my braking is exactly the same way. Are you sure there is a problem?
Certainly not normal. You should check it out too.

Last edited by S2-13BT; Feb 12, 2003 at 04:44 AM.
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Old Feb 12, 2003 | 08:16 AM
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general at this age the seals on the clutch and brake cylinders are at the end of their life, if they aren't already dead and just being abused. you can try bleedinging it but chances are you will need a new master cylinder.
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Old Feb 12, 2003 | 10:12 AM
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Thanks for the help guys. I'll have to break down and order some springs. :P
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