Brake and clutch questions
#1
common sense prevails....
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Brake and clutch questions
I just bought an old 84 RX-7. It is an old retired "spec racer turned ITA". I am going revive it's life and run CSP in autocross.
The car has not been ran in a long time. I got the casr to the house yesterday and drained the gas tank. She fired up and runs pretty good.
Problem, the clutch pedal goes to the floor and the brake pedal is hard as a rock.
I believe the clutch master is shot. It had a liquidy mess coming out and in the car.
As far as brakes, what should I check first? Master, wheel cylinders? The brake is hard as a rock and does not appear to be actuating the calipers.
I am half tempted to go ahead and replace the master and all calipers. I know that would be expensive, but at least it will get the job done.
Any ideas??
The car has not been ran in a long time. I got the casr to the house yesterday and drained the gas tank. She fired up and runs pretty good.
Problem, the clutch pedal goes to the floor and the brake pedal is hard as a rock.
I believe the clutch master is shot. It had a liquidy mess coming out and in the car.
As far as brakes, what should I check first? Master, wheel cylinders? The brake is hard as a rock and does not appear to be actuating the calipers.
I am half tempted to go ahead and replace the master and all calipers. I know that would be expensive, but at least it will get the job done.
Any ideas??
#3
common sense prevails....
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Today I pumped the brakes and bled the front driver caliper. Pedal did go down to the floor. Fluid looked like crap so I stopped. I will try again tomorrow when I get some new fluid. I will purge the whole system.
Will keep you all posted. JC
#4
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Sounds pretty certain your clutch master has bad seals; leaking to the interior is a dead sure sign.
Many people here recommend changing the slave out at the same time, as they seem to like to go out together. The job's a little easier to do if you can pull master, slave, and lines all together. Check the hose carefully, too.
On the brakes; I have seen both calipers and drum cylinders that have frozen up from corrosion when left to sit too long (years); process seems to be a small leak of brake fluid from around the seal pools against the exposed part of the piston, and attracts moisture (brake fluid is hydrophilic), which corrodes the piston, causing it to jam. They can often be stripped and rebuilt, once the locked piston is freed. Takes careful honing and polishing of the piston.
Many people here recommend changing the slave out at the same time, as they seem to like to go out together. The job's a little easier to do if you can pull master, slave, and lines all together. Check the hose carefully, too.
On the brakes; I have seen both calipers and drum cylinders that have frozen up from corrosion when left to sit too long (years); process seems to be a small leak of brake fluid from around the seal pools against the exposed part of the piston, and attracts moisture (brake fluid is hydrophilic), which corrodes the piston, causing it to jam. They can often be stripped and rebuilt, once the locked piston is freed. Takes careful honing and polishing of the piston.
#5
Lives on the Forum
Yep, if opening the bleeders allows free movement of the brake pedal then your MC might be okay and instead you are dealing with frozen calipers. Good luck...
#6
common sense prevails....
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My master cylinder is leaking, so i need a new one.
Finally figured out why my power brakes were not working.....made hissing sounds when I shut it down.....and engine idled like total crap......... the brake booster has a MASSIVE diaphragm leak!!! Need to change that also.
I will change the booster and put a new master on it.... No since fooling around with my brakes on an autocrosser!!!
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