ZeikHunter

aright, just finished the longest brakejob in recorded history. new ss line, pads and discs (its a gsl). its all back together now, but the brakes are almst worse than they were before. checked for leaks, bled the lines 3 times, still wont "stop on a dime". is there a procedure i need to follow to make sure theyre good?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

What kind of pads did you install and did you thuroughly clean the rotors? Stock pads need to bed in gently.

steve84GS TII

Brakes need time to bed in,just like a new clutch.
Assuming the pedal is tight and there is no air in the system,here are my questions for you....
Are the rotors new, or used/re-surfaced?
Did you wipe them down on both sides with alcohol/brake cleaner?New rotors are usually oil fogged to inhibit surface rust.
If new,are the rotors zinc plated or otherwise coated?

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Did you rebuild the calipers? Bleed them some more before getting concerned, air locks up sometimes.

My brake job consisted of 4 caliper rebuilds, 4 new rotors, new bearings, new Axxis brake pads, russell brake bleeders, new hoses, swapping all GSL-SE hardware in for the old GSL, doing struts, coilovers and adjustable camber tops at the same time, I think I won the biggest brake job so far.

PS my brakes are simply awesome now.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

100 mph, then slam on the brakes.

ZeikHunter

brembo fronts (oem-style) and oem raers, hawk hps pads, and ss lines. had to get a rebuilt pass front caliper because the bleeder valve broke clean off flush with the caliper. the pedal is still kinda muhy, even tho it was a tight fit getting the caliper over the pads (yes, i reset them)

sorry if theres any misspellings i missed, i literaly woke up 5 min ago

steve84GS TII

There should be no mush with that setup.You must have air somewhere.

Thats basically what I ran back in the days,and my pedal was rockhard and I could lock them up with ease.Granted,your stopping power hasent been increased,since the tires actually stop the car.
Your mods will just reduce the amount of brake pedal effort thats required before you reach the maximum stopping traction availible through the tires.The lines will reduce mush in the pedal and the pads will increase friction,which reduces the amount of "push" you must apply to the pedal to stop the car in a given amount of time.

There will be a short break in period while the zinc plating is worn from the rotors.And the pads will have to bed in a bit, and also be heated up before they reach full stopping power.I ditched my Hawk pads for some EBC Green Street pads after a couple months.The Hawk SP pads dusted and squeeked like crazy and they didnt work as well when cold,as I would have liked.The EBC pads are much quieter and dont dust much at all.They feel like stock when cold and dont eat up the rotors either.....

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yea I agree, there might be some air in there. Once you get the mushiness figured out take it to 60 mph, get on the brakes hard and bring it down to about 10mph, repeat a few times, giving plenty of cool down time, that will ensure the pads get a nice initial bedding, after that its just a matter of putting some miles on them to get them fully seated in. Works every time.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

82 Transam is doing exactly what I do, note do not stop completely during the process or the pads bond to the hot rotors and remove the surface you are applying.

Kentetsu

Make sure all of the air is out of the lines, then read this link for instructions on how to properly bed the new pads. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

perfect_circle

your tricks are catching on kentetsu!