brake booster begone
05-13-08, 06:10 AM
#27
93' Rx7 Widebody
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There is no linkage if you remove the booster, the rod that attaches to the pedal is part of the booster, if you remove the booster its gone and you will have to make a new one.... And its more like 3-4 inches and yes I know that brake lines bend easily I've made dozens, but its still something to consider. The short line going to the left front wheel will definatly have to be redone, there is no way you could stretch it enough...
Last edited by FlyinFINN; 05-13-08 at 06:37 AM.
05-13-08, 08:29 AM
#29
No. The rod that attaches to the pedal is part of the master. The booster is just a big VACUUM CYLINDER, there are no rods comming from it, thats the master. You obviously have no clue how a booster or master works. And I'm not going to argue over lengths of brake lines, if you've done them before then you should know thats not hard at all.
Seriously, go take a look at the booster and master off a First gen, you will see what I'm talking about.... I only work on FB's, so I can't comment on what those parts look like on other cars. Don't tell me I don't have a clue about FB's, its all I do...
05-13-08, 08:39 AM
#30
Ok take a look at these two links, shows a pic of the front of the booster with the pushrod sticking out, and the back of the master cylinder which has no linkage or rod of any kind....
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1210484125
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1210484125
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1210484125
https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1210484125
05-13-08, 08:41 AM
#31
^ He is correct. The master cylinder has no rods/linkages. The rod from the booster goes into the back of the MC. The MC looks like this for our cars:
and the booster looks like this:
Anyway, that really isn't the point. You could eliminate the booster with a little work, but I don't know why you would want to. If you want to see how it would feel, remove the vac line to the booster and cap the nipple at the manifold. Now drive the car in an empty parking lot. This is how it would feel with no booster at all. I'm sure you might be able to find a different MC that might be able to work, but you are on your own there. There are no direct bolt-on MCs for this application that I know of...but, if you are needing to redo brakelines and linkages anyway, you could really make just about any MC work.
and the booster looks like this:
Anyway, that really isn't the point. You could eliminate the booster with a little work, but I don't know why you would want to. If you want to see how it would feel, remove the vac line to the booster and cap the nipple at the manifold. Now drive the car in an empty parking lot. This is how it would feel with no booster at all. I'm sure you might be able to find a different MC that might be able to work, but you are on your own there. There are no direct bolt-on MCs for this application that I know of...but, if you are needing to redo brakelines and linkages anyway, you could really make just about any MC work.
Last edited by gsl-se addict; 05-13-08 at 08:52 AM.
05-13-08, 09:13 AM
#33
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I never asked how to use the power assisted master cylinder with out the power assist but...
The pictures prove FlyinFinn is right; if you remove booster, and bolt the master cylinder to the firewall, the pedal assembly will act directly on the master cylinder.
The pictures prove FlyinFinn is right; if you remove booster, and bolt the master cylinder to the firewall, the pedal assembly will act directly on the master cylinder.
05-13-08, 09:29 AM
#34
Except there is no rod to connect the pedal to the master cylinder, its built into the booster....
BTW sorry to jack your thread as we apparently have... The answer to your question simply is No, there is no bolt in non power master cylinder for the FB, you would just need to find one that is the correct size and adapt it to work...
BTW sorry to jack your thread as we apparently have... The answer to your question simply is No, there is no bolt in non power master cylinder for the FB, you would just need to find one that is the correct size and adapt it to work...
05-13-08, 09:42 AM
#35
You have been a member for a whole 2 months and you are telling a Senior member of 6 years that he does not have a clue as to what design a FB has?
You are not working on a BMW here.
You are not working on a BMW here.
No. The rod that attaches to the pedal is part of the master. The booster is just a big VACUUM CYLINDER, there are no rods comming from it, thats the master. You obviously have no clue how a booster or master works. And I'm not going to argue over lengths of brake lines, if you've done them before then you should know thats not hard at all.
05-13-08, 11:31 AM
#36
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I'm really glad you "jacked the thread", I gave up on the Booster Begone as soon as I found out that there wasn't an off the shelf solution.
But doesn't the "male" end of the booster look like it would fit perfectly in the "female" end of the booster? If that is the case then what ever goes into the female end of the booster will go into the female end of the master cylinder...
But doesn't the "male" end of the booster look like it would fit perfectly in the "female" end of the booster? If that is the case then what ever goes into the female end of the booster will go into the female end of the master cylinder...
05-13-08, 11:45 AM
#37
I hate drum brakes
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You could do it if you wanted, there are other cars that share, or could be "forced" to share parts with an FB. Do FC 4-pot calipers and rear brakes (ReSpeed), calculate the size needed for a proper sized MC, and source another linkage rod from a car in a junkyard... Or find a way to remove the stock one from the booster and cut it down/rethread the end so it's shorter, and possibly suspend it in a home made bracket with polyurethane "donut" bushings or something.
05-13-08, 01:05 PM
#40
I'm really glad you "jacked the thread", I gave up on the Booster Begone as soon as I found out that there wasn't an off the shelf solution.
But doesn't the "male" end of the booster look like it would fit perfectly in the "female" end of the booster? If that is the case then what ever goes into the female end of the booster will go into the female end of the master cylinder...
But doesn't the "male" end of the booster look like it would fit perfectly in the "female" end of the booster? If that is the case then what ever goes into the female end of the booster will go into the female end of the master cylinder...
Nice setup Jimmy, where did you get the master cylinders?
05-13-08, 02:19 PM
#42
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this thread is dumb....
when mazda put power brakes on their cars, all they did was rotate the master cylinder flange. maybe the pushrod is different, but thats it.
2. my tr3 had disc front, drum rear brakes, with no assist, and it feels so much nicer than a power brake car.
3. the tr3 is manageable because its rear drum, rx7 with 4 discs and no other changes is going to give a really hard pedal
when mazda put power brakes on their cars, all they did was rotate the master cylinder flange. maybe the pushrod is different, but thats it.
2. my tr3 had disc front, drum rear brakes, with no assist, and it feels so much nicer than a power brake car.
3. the tr3 is manageable because its rear drum, rx7 with 4 discs and no other changes is going to give a really hard pedal
05-13-08, 05:45 PM
#43
Both my masters are Tilton, the race car section seems to swear by them.
Anyhow the smaller the master the less pedal effort. I made that mistake already.
Wilwood has a mastercylinder that has all the work done for you....
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...TCMC/index.asp
You'll be best off to measure the piston size of your front and rear calipers and talk to the tech support. They will figure out what you need.
But it is expensive!!
Anyhow the smaller the master the less pedal effort. I made that mistake already.
Wilwood has a mastercylinder that has all the work done for you....
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/006-...TCMC/index.asp
You'll be best off to measure the piston size of your front and rear calipers and talk to the tech support. They will figure out what you need.
But it is expensive!!
05-14-08, 11:15 AM
#47
93' Rx7 Widebody
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A BMW has the same exact setup. Apparently you don't understand what I'm saying. The rod is still part of the Master Cylinder, sure the rod "attached" to the booster but it's part of the Master Cylinder's Assembly. You take it off and bolt it to the firewall with the Master Cylinder and your done. All the booster is doing with the rod is holding it, simple as taking it out and bolting it to firewall, it will then work like it should. Only problem is (like I mentioned beofore) trimming the rod because it will now stick into the cabin further. What does it matter if I've been here 2 months or 10 years? I have lived outside this forum.
05-14-08, 11:49 AM
#48
Okay guys as interesting as this discussion has been, I'm closing the thread before things get too far out of hand.
Thanks to everyone for contributing and Vin good luck on your swap. If Finn is right and the rod can simply be pulled out of the brake booster because it goes all the way through, then you've found your solution - take the rod, cut it to length and bolt to the firewall. If that's not the case, then you'll have to fab something up on your own or find a donor car with the right bits.
If you do end up doing it successfully, I'm sure we'd all love to see a thread with some pictures and words about how you did it Might even be archive material...
Jon
Thanks to everyone for contributing and Vin good luck on your swap. If Finn is right and the rod can simply be pulled out of the brake booster because it goes all the way through, then you've found your solution - take the rod, cut it to length and bolt to the firewall. If that's not the case, then you'll have to fab something up on your own or find a donor car with the right bits.
If you do end up doing it successfully, I'm sure we'd all love to see a thread with some pictures and words about how you did it
Might even be archive material...Jon
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