Okay...

Question:

1.) Would this treatment work on a motor that just leaks water into the chamber above 5K rpms, mainly on decel, some on accell?

2.) Would I use:

THIS




OR that little 8oz bottle of copper dust stuff?



Thanks, Laterz, Andrew

 

eh, its worth a try. if its leaking coolant already and its real bad, your looking at a rebuild already. so... whats the worst that could happen.

says on the can DO NOT MIX with antifreeze so.. if you use it flush the rad with a hose first.

 

If it only leaks at high rpms, Im wondering if I have to do it at high rpms so the **** will find the leak....


Also, which stuff... the little canister picture above, or the copper powder dust you get in a 4" plastic cylinder at the parts store?


Thanks, Laterz, Andrew...


BTW... I was just gonna do a gasket kit/overhaul on it... with 111K miles and all, but in the future, figured i would save my money and either upgrade some things, or overhaul the motor...

 

I've used Bars Leaks twice on head gaskets with great success.

http://www.barsleaks.net/how2works.html

Good luck!

 

once the system is presureized, hi or lo rpm won't matter. if you have an internal coolent leak the block weld will find it's way to the leak(s)

heres the link http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/o-ring_fix.html

 

http://www.alumaseal.com/index.htm

thats the **** i was thinking of using...


now that i look at the product in front of me... it seems to be crushed aluminum or some ****.... aluminum dust? when I get a TINY bit on my finger, it turns silver..... I saw three of these should work... hahah....


Okay... thats the answer to question 2...

now, question one....

When trying to get the product to stop where its leaking into the combustion chamber, do I need to make the car smoke so the product can REACH the hole?

cause mine only smokes after 5K usually on decel only.... but its HUGE clouds, heh....

So I figure I would have to MAKE it smoke, for it to reach the leak, correct?


Thanks, Laterz, Andrew

 

just follow the directions, once in your coolent system it will flow through out your entire system no need to rev it real high to get it in there.

the reason your blowing alot of smoke after high rev's should be bacause your puttin gmore of a load on the motor and its flowing more coolent at one time, thus more is getting in to your cylider.

 

May sound like a stupid question - but you're sure it's water?

You're losing water from the radiator?

If you're going by smoke, it could also be the carb...

 

its a thick white cloud...... happened two carbs ago.... two new intake gaskets ago, and is still happening now.....

 

... and you're losing water from the radiator?

If so, it's water. I was just curious about the details of your problem - and how you end up fixing it ...

 

I dont run it enough to loose much water... but I do loose water after playing with it for a long time....

 

well i have the same prob since i got rid of my emissions and did a header back exh. system. i blow lots of smoke and loose water, and i can see the wate/coolent leaking down the front of the motor, so i bought a new intake gasket and o rings today from victoria british. i hope this helps me, but i also bought a carb from some guy and have been having nothing but problems from it so i dont know. my car leaks oil really bad too... 12at in about 2-3 months anyway with a webber and all kinds of goodies from rotaryshack, robert is the man!!!

 

K&W is amazing stuff. I had a can come in with a cracked head and we ran it through the engine as per directions.

Afterward the leak was fixed but it lost a cylinder because the K&W bridged the gap in the electrode of the spark Plug!!

Make sure you follow the instruction exactly! K&W will not mix with even ONE DOP of antifreeze in your system so flush the **** out of it with water before you try it.

 

I wouldnt use any of that ****, I would rebuild the engine if you want it done right! I took an engine apart the other day and the rear rotor houseing was trashed, the reason I think it was trashed, is their was muddy **** on the bottom of the engine in the water jacket and dont think the coolant could flow on the bottom of the engine well. That is where the hot exhaust gases are mostly are.

Also blowing smoke at those times, sounds like oil rings leaking, not water. When it is water, usually it will smoke at start up and be hard to start? When it smokes at hard acceleration or decelration usually means you should rebuild soon!

 

813KR$ is right,if it was water,it would be hard to start,seeing that the plugs are getting wet.

In extreme cases,the water will start comming out the exhaust after you shut it down,or while its idling

For the water to be seen as mist when driving,there would have to be a insane amount of water in the engine.

Have you checked your brake booster?
If you have brake fluid in the engine,the syptoms will be allmost the same as water(it looks the same anyway)

Karis

 

hahahahaha

I will check my booster because it smokes just the rear rotor, and Im always adding brake fluid....

(I know its the rear rotor cause there was build up on it.... instead of it being smooth)


Thanks, Laterz, Andrew

 

Have a look at it Andrew!

One way to check it...remove the booster,and shake it.95% of the time,it the diagraph is torn,you`ll be able to hear the fluid inside it.

Take care

Karis