1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Bleeding clutch system

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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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BC Bleeding clutch system

I tried searching around the forum and reading the FSM and haynes manual but i cant for the life of me figure out how to loosen the bleeder nipple. I cant get any wrench onto it or socket and the large line (oil line?) that goes over it I'm hesitant to remove as i cant find what it holds in it and i don't want to just start pulling things off. If anyone can give some advice it would be greatly appreciated!!
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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the clutch slave bleeder nipple is 8mm and you turn it counter clockwise to loosen. bleed it like the brakes, pump three times, hold, open nipple.
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Old Feb 20, 2012 | 11:47 PM
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Also u need to grab some heine. As sooon as u finished the first bottle, fill it halfway with water thebsubmerge the bleeder hose bleed it until you no longer see bubbles
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 02:27 PM
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So I'm getting a pump like thing from a friend for bleeding my clutch line later today and i have everything all hooked up to the master cylinder and i tried pushing on the pedal to make sure it was all ok and it wont move at all and theres just hard resistance to it yet if i loosen off the hard line from the master cylinder itll move just fine and push fluid everywhere...
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 03:02 PM
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Sounds like a frozen slave cylinder or blocked hose. Did you replace either yet?
Why do you think you need to bleed anyway?

Seems like half the story is being told so far. We can only help if we have all the
facts
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 04:00 PM
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^+1 slaves are cheap and easy to replace. If you can't depress the clutch, I would suspect the slave is frozen. Good luck.
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 06:10 PM
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Yeah I just finished swapping the master cylinder cause it went, it was included with the car for when it finally went since the other owner before me had changed the slave cylinder a few years back and for some reason didnt do the master. I have not changed the flex hose yet but I'm going to go do the bleeding now... I'm going to assume if the slave is frozen thats gotta be changed to right?
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Old Feb 22, 2012 | 07:21 PM
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Well i decided to bleed it using the hose and bottle method and it bled perfectly with zero problems so i guess the hose is fine but after hooking it all up and such i pushed the pedal andddd nothing, still hard so i guess its the slave cylinder... is this something i can fix with a little tap on it or will i have to replace?
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 02:32 PM
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Most likely if you can fix out by tapping on it, the problem will come back quickly. I would replace it. Autozone had them listed for $26.99.
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Old Feb 23, 2012 | 03:32 PM
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Take the slave off, pull the piston out of it. I've seen them rust to the bore. I've seen rust in the bore. I've seen the bore of the slave fall apart and rust. I've also seen dead people.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:56 AM
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Unless your using silicon fluid, brake and clutch fluid should be completely changed
out every 2 years or water accumulates and causes rust to form in bad places.

I bet your slave is glued together internally by rust.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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When I swapped out my son's slave yesterday, I used a 60cc syringe with clear Tygon tubing and drew brake fluid from the slave side while filling the clutch reservoir. I did this while keeping the slave elevated to make sure all bubbles rose out of the system. Literally took about 20 seconds to bleed. Then I closed the nipple and mounted the slave to the transmission.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 09:30 AM
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I had the same problem. My slave was frozen. After loosening it. My master wasnt pumping fluids. I bought a whole replacement kit at autozone anyways. But i still want to save the old ones
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