ray green

iTrader: (14)

See page 8:

http://members.cardomain.com/turd10

It took a Saturday afternoon.

inittab

Jethro is cool.

The repair looks pretty good. I'd be curious to see how it holds up over time. What kind of epoxy did you use?

MikeLMR

that will rust out again by this time next year ... not trying to be funny or anything but theres a reason why people go to all the trouble of cutting out rust and welding in new metal. Plus you added lots of new rust traps by using sheet metal screws.

KehoeAutomotive

I found a bunch of rust holes in the back of my RX7.

Although I'm sure the diffefent epoxys and fibergalss options out there are good products I decided to make a few plates to fill in the holes.

I cut out the "holy plates" and used them as template to cut new one and welded them right back in. It was not that much more work and it will last. It took me ALL DAY and i had to make 7 repairs like that.

You car looks great!

John64

I'm sorry to say that if you did not get it all out it will be back soon. The only real way is to completely cut the rust out. The metal in the 7 is three layered so the rust will just travel underneath and pop up again. I cut out all of mine and had an autobody shop weld in new matel for $400. I then undercoated the inside and out with three layers then painted it. It the only true way to do it and not have it come back.

P.S. Is that chicken wire you used in the one picture????

John

ray green

iTrader: (14)

John, I'm pretty sure I won't be having anymore rust problems in the bins for a while. See some pictures taken after 6 months on page 9 of

http://members.cardomain.com/turd10

You can see it's holding up well.

Initab, I used some left over epoxy from a fiberglass kit I bought to do some repairs to an old cast iron tub. But probably most any epoxy material would do, even bondo.

This project took me less time (3-5 hours) than I would have spent trying to find someone to do the welding and getting the car to the garage. I used materials I had laying around the house, so it cost me nothing.

I think the repair will hold up just fine, maybe even better than welding, because all the rust prone areas are saturated with epoxy and bondo. See the web site for updated photos.

That's not chicken wire over the driver's side rear wheel wheel, but close, I think its light weight stock fencing. A previous owner put this in to provide backing for a fiberglass patch at the top of the wheel well, a rust fix, I suppose. Looks like something I would do.

Anyway, they bondo'd the **** out of it from the outside and sealed it up good - you can see this in some of the pictures. Seems to be holding pretty well after what must have been several years.

So, here's a way to save some bucks and take good care of your 7 too. I'm just hoping for a few years.

Ray

Nick-7

I had the same rust problem, so my friend and I cut the rust out and welded in some plates. I then smoothed the weld seems with JB Weld and finally covered it all with ruberized undercaoting.

I also did this same procedure back in the summer with a whole that was in the passenger floorboard.