Big update on turbo swap, with huge pix -- 56K DEATH!!!--
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From: Mound, MN
Big update on turbo swap, with huge pix -- 56K DEATH!!!--
for you newbs, here is the car as it sits today

The engine bay, drivers side

The engine bay, drivers side
Last edited by 82streetracer; Jun 7, 2004 at 07:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Mound, MN
The TII oil cooler and fuel cool (which I stepped on and fucked up a bunch of the fins)
New sheetmetel interior panels for the new autometer guages
New sheetmetel interior panels for the new autometer guages
Last edited by 82streetracer; Jun 7, 2004 at 07:33 PM.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Mound, MN
thanks for the comments,
to answer some questions
the cell is a summit brand Pro-street fuel cell, its 16 gal, with aviation foam and a GM fuel level sender.
I dont race this car regularly or in SCCA
its mainly a street car, but I plan to race in the Targa Newfoundland next year.
to answer some questions
the cell is a summit brand Pro-street fuel cell, its 16 gal, with aviation foam and a GM fuel level sender.
I dont race this car regularly or in SCCA
its mainly a street car, but I plan to race in the Targa Newfoundland next year.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Mound, MN
Originally posted by seanrot
looksing good. I take it you have a stainless braided hose fetish
looksing good. I take it you have a stainless braided hose fetish
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Mound, MN
installing the cell took about a day.
bending the metal for the mounts was pretty easy.
it was removing the floorpan that was a huge bitch.
allthough, all I had to work with was a drill, a jigsaw (I went through 5 blades) a cold chissle and a hammer.
drilling and splitting a dozen spot welds is a big pain in the ***.
Plus there was fitment, fine tuning the height, and then taking it all apart and painting.
about a day, much shorter if I had proper tools
bending the metal for the mounts was pretty easy.
it was removing the floorpan that was a huge bitch.
allthough, all I had to work with was a drill, a jigsaw (I went through 5 blades) a cold chissle and a hammer.
drilling and splitting a dozen spot welds is a big pain in the ***.
Plus there was fitment, fine tuning the height, and then taking it all apart and painting.
about a day, much shorter if I had proper tools
Its cars like these that make me feel so sad. If only I have the money, time, and knowledge to do that.
Also does no one but me have to deal with the DEQ or does everyone just do an engine swap with another crappier one that will pass?
Also does no one but me have to deal with the DEQ or does everyone just do an engine swap with another crappier one that will pass?
Originally posted by RgrWalker
By the looks of the Pics I take it you went with 13b Housings and 12a Plates? If that's the case, where did you put your fuel injectors?
By the looks of the Pics I take it you went with 13b Housings and 12a Plates? If that's the case, where did you put your fuel injectors?
is there anything special you have to do to use 12a plates w/ 13b rotor housings, cause i really dont want a 6 port 13b, i'd much rather have a 4 port to do my streetport/turbo project on.
Questions. What will you be using for an ignition system? Whats the fitting in the front side housing near the CAS for? Whats the duct hanging from the back of the car for?
Suggestions. I see the top fitting on the FC cooler you have. You should have used a pre bent 150* fitting rather than the bent hose. Thats too small a radius bend for that hose and may cause you big problems. Email me if you want pics of what the correct fittings for this are. See how you did the turbo return oil line? Thats the correct way to make a hydraulic line. No stress on the hose. And I highly suggest you fabricate some sort of protective sheild for those fuel cell hoses. Anyone rearends you and its over, all that hard work gone up in flames.
Suggestions. I see the top fitting on the FC cooler you have. You should have used a pre bent 150* fitting rather than the bent hose. Thats too small a radius bend for that hose and may cause you big problems. Email me if you want pics of what the correct fittings for this are. See how you did the turbo return oil line? Thats the correct way to make a hydraulic line. No stress on the hose. And I highly suggest you fabricate some sort of protective sheild for those fuel cell hoses. Anyone rearends you and its over, all that hard work gone up in flames.
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Mound, MN
Originally posted by schultze
Its cars like these that make me feel so sad. If only I have the money, time, and knowledge to do that.
Also does no one but me have to deal with the DEQ or does everyone just do an engine swap with another crappier one that will pass?
Its cars like these that make me feel so sad. If only I have the money, time, and knowledge to do that.
Also does no one but me have to deal with the DEQ or does everyone just do an engine swap with another crappier one that will pass?
Im only 19, I bought this car about 2 years ago while I was going to Dunwoody. Dunwoody gave me the general automotive knolledge, I learned about 75% of what I know about 7s from this board and other rotary websites.
By the looks of the Pics I take it you went with 13b Housings and 12a Plates? If that's the case, where did you put your fuel injectors?
Carl, im using s4 TII coils, there mounted down on the subframe by the mount, + a haltech E6k
On the fittings, the only ones that I though were too far bent were the ones on the fuel cooler, they are really tight and I need to redo them.
the ones on the oil cooler dont seam to be really stressed to the point of not flowing enough or anything like that. But I see what your saying.
these fittings are so damn expensive, and I was trying to use what I had already ordered
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Mound, MN
snapped a few more pix for yah, ill leave them in links because of their size
Here are my modified oil filler pieces, I welded the the corner and the block piece together, and then the filler part, which I have to weld a bracket to. I couldnt think of how to setup the filler, and then I saw a remote oil filler in a old BMW at my shop, and I got the idea.
http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/creare/images...ject%20013.jpg
http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/creare/images...ject%20014.jpg
http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/creare/images...ject%20015.jpg
Heres the Haltech and the new Optima Battery
http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/creare/images...ject%20016.jpg
Here are my modified oil filler pieces, I welded the the corner and the block piece together, and then the filler part, which I have to weld a bracket to. I couldnt think of how to setup the filler, and then I saw a remote oil filler in a old BMW at my shop, and I got the idea.
http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/creare/images...ject%20013.jpg
http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/creare/images...ject%20014.jpg
http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/creare/images...ject%20015.jpg
Heres the Haltech and the new Optima Battery
http://mavweb.mnsu.edu/creare/images...ject%20016.jpg



Can I ask questions and make suggestions?