Best way to fix surface rust
#1
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Best way to fix surface rust
Hello everyone,
i've never posted anything in the 1st gen forum, but i need your advice on fixing surface rust on my 89 T2
There is a small patch near the front of my roof on the edge where it meets the windsheild.
i was thinking of using a orbital sander and remove all the rust.
but i need a way to build up the material i removed off so the roof is flush again.
I was thinking of using JBweld, heat in hot water to have it run easier and apply that and then sand it smooth and flat again, prime and paint.
Is that a good idea, or should i just use bondo?
i've never posted anything in the 1st gen forum, but i need your advice on fixing surface rust on my 89 T2
There is a small patch near the front of my roof on the edge where it meets the windsheild.
i was thinking of using a orbital sander and remove all the rust.
but i need a way to build up the material i removed off so the roof is flush again.
I was thinking of using JBweld, heat in hot water to have it run easier and apply that and then sand it smooth and flat again, prime and paint.
Is that a good idea, or should i just use bondo?
#3
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Bondo can be added to build up the material, then sanded back down to flush so once it's primed and painted you won't be able to tell.
A word of caution: much of the surface body metal on a ReX is thiiiiiiin. If you're sanding/grinding away so much as to need to fill it you might go right through - have you considered just chopping out the rusted section and welding in new metal?
I'm not a bodywork guy, but I've had enough done to my cars over the years to know this is the preferred method. Personally I like knowing there's clean metal under the new paint instead of pockets of bondo.
A word of caution: much of the surface body metal on a ReX is thiiiiiiin. If you're sanding/grinding away so much as to need to fill it you might go right through - have you considered just chopping out the rusted section and welding in new metal?
I'm not a bodywork guy, but I've had enough done to my cars over the years to know this is the preferred method. Personally I like knowing there's clean metal under the new paint instead of pockets of bondo.
#4
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Thanks for the advice everyone,
the rust doesn't look too deep. But i haven't touched it yet so i don't know the extent.
Mantis: that is also the reason why i want to try to use JBweld instead of bondo.
i just feel wrong using bondo sometimes
the rust doesn't look too deep. But i haven't touched it yet so i don't know the extent.
Mantis: that is also the reason why i want to try to use JBweld instead of bondo.
i just feel wrong using bondo sometimes
#5
the name is Stan
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It looks really crummy in the picture, see left, but when the metal work was looking just perfect, the entire car got a coat of bondo and then sanded down. The bondo is no thicker than a few sheets of paper anywhere you check. It's a ton of work, but comes out better than factory. But I think a lot of show cars do exactly that.
If a lite magnet can still hold onto the vertical surface, then the bando ain't that think.
If a lite magnet can still hold onto the vertical surface, then the bando ain't that think.
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#12
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ummm, they make "New, UV activated BONDO"... ugh... I tried it because it had a 30-day money-back guarantee, took it back the first day I tried it... it's like trying to work with runny yellow snot when it's uncured, it cures in 2 or so minutes, so you can't work with it, and when it cures, you can grab it and pull it off like silicone. It doesn't stick at all...
Jeff
Jeff
#15
Had myself a dented in rear fender just above the tail light right on the corner. Was too small to pull out and no access to hammer out. So I used tiger hair to form it. then sanded down and finished with bondo. Some sanding and 3m glazing putty to fill the bondo pits and final 400 sand and prime. Looks great. Just to bring to light using tiger hair or gorilla hair to use before bondo for those large fill ins. Also fixed rusty lawnmower deck. That stuff is strong
#17
save yourself the trouble and actually treat it not just sand it down and paint it, it will come back again. go find some por15 and then strip it down to metal then apply the por15 pretty thin ( i used an airbrush) and then go for priming and painting. it chemically changes the metal so the rust break down doesnt happen. its good stuff.
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Last week when I was in kamloops(moving all my stuff there) I left one of my tools with the rubber grips on the hood of my car and it melted onto it Im thinking about maybe a new paintjob and get rid of some of the rust.
Have any of you guys needed 3 new paintjobs? Mine never seem to stay good looking for more than a couple months
Have any of you guys needed 3 new paintjobs? Mine never seem to stay good looking for more than a couple months
#19
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Ok, going back to fixing the surface rust, i have some spots on the front of my car i'd like to sand down and put primer on, but what grit sandpaper should I use to get down to the bare metal before applying the primer???? Thanks.
#20
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Originally posted by ghetto-rx7
Last week when I was in kamloops(moving all my stuff there) I left one of my tools with the rubber grips on the hood of my car and it melted onto it Im thinking about maybe a new paintjob and get rid of some of the rust.
Have any of you guys needed 3 new paintjobs? Mine never seem to stay good looking for more than a couple months
Last week when I was in kamloops(moving all my stuff there) I left one of my tools with the rubber grips on the hood of my car and it melted onto it Im thinking about maybe a new paintjob and get rid of some of the rust.
Have any of you guys needed 3 new paintjobs? Mine never seem to stay good looking for more than a couple months
Jeff
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If you keep needing new paint, go to a decent body shop - look for 50's Chevys and/or muscle cars being restored in their bays. A high quality paint job costs a few grand, but it's worth it and it'll last.
The shop I go to is restoring a Bugatti from the 1920's from the ground up, taking their time and painting it to perfection as they assemble it. I saw a ton of concourse cars in there being 'freshened', in some cases they would even paint 'em with a brush (cars from before the 2nd world war were hand painted, and entering one in a car show with sprayed on paint can cost you points)
With all that there I knew they'd treat my ReX right.
The shop I go to is restoring a Bugatti from the 1920's from the ground up, taking their time and painting it to perfection as they assemble it. I saw a ton of concourse cars in there being 'freshened', in some cases they would even paint 'em with a brush (cars from before the 2nd world war were hand painted, and entering one in a car show with sprayed on paint can cost you points)
With all that there I knew they'd treat my ReX right.