Best way to change SE fuel Filter?
Best way to change SE fuel Filter?
I want to change my SE fuel filter in the quickest and least obtrusive way. It's parked in front of the house at the curb where I had the flatbed unload it after it stopped on the road and I don't want to upset my neighbors in this upscale neighborhood with ghetto auto repairs so I want to R&R as quickly as possible. I'm not even certain it's the fuel filter, but that seems like a quick replacement test.
It easy to get to above the rear axle. If you want quick then get the mazda part that has the mounting bracket already attached to it. I got a napa part and had to swap it over and there's a piece of rubber that goes between the 2 parts that is a PITA to swap. Also, don't lose the copper washers on the banjo bolts if your filter doesn't come with new one, unless you want to burn your car to the ground.
Above the axle? Does that mean I've gotta go under? I was hoping maybe I just had to remove a wheel (drivers side?) or go thru the bin behind the seat.
So there are 2 banjo bolts to undo?
So there are 2 banjo bolts to undo?
I don't recall if you can get to it with the left rear wheel off, I've done it twice on a hoist both times and didn't need to remove them. There's a banjo bolt on the top and bottom of the filter. I wouldn't imagine it's difficult with the car on the ground, especially with it jacked up.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
you actually can do it without pulling a wheel off or jacking up the car, but its much easier to jack it up, or park it on a curb or something.
filter is left rear, kinda by the wheel.
2 banjo bolts, 17mm i think, body of the filter has nuts too, big
2 10mm bolts hold it on the body.
if you get a gold nippondenso filter its the best, the black painted japanese one is ok, it clogs faster (change it at 15k instead of 30), and if you have a us made filter, it'll rust out internally and clog itself =)
filter is left rear, kinda by the wheel.
2 banjo bolts, 17mm i think, body of the filter has nuts too, big
2 10mm bolts hold it on the body.
if you get a gold nippondenso filter its the best, the black painted japanese one is ok, it clogs faster (change it at 15k instead of 30), and if you have a us made filter, it'll rust out internally and clog itself =)
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,837
Likes: 3,234
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
One can get a variety of SE fuel filters thru Rockauto, ebay, Atkins Rotary and www.densoproducts.com .
I'm hoping I can change the filter by putting the left wheel up on a jackstand, removing the lug nuts and wheel, and reaching under. I guess the fuel lines to the filter are elastic so they can be pinched off with Quik Grips or Quik Vices?
I'm going to try another fix first. Frankly, I suspect it's not a fuel filter problem, since this is my DD, the filter was changed 2 years ago and our gas is pretty clean and I use a fuel additive like MMO.
I'm hoping I can change the filter by putting the left wheel up on a jackstand, removing the lug nuts and wheel, and reaching under. I guess the fuel lines to the filter are elastic so they can be pinched off with Quik Grips or Quik Vices?
I'm going to try another fix first. Frankly, I suspect it's not a fuel filter problem, since this is my DD, the filter was changed 2 years ago and our gas is pretty clean and I use a fuel additive like MMO.
Easier? That's a surprise.
I may just replace them both because I can get the pair for less than $100. That's less than the price of a FI fuel pressure tester.
How long to put it up on a jackstand, remove wheel, R&R both pump and filter?
I may just replace them both because I can get the pair for less than $100. That's less than the price of a FI fuel pressure tester.
How long to put it up on a jackstand, remove wheel, R&R both pump and filter?
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