That is how I run mine, with a relay.

If you get real fancy, and have a stock radiator, take a look at the bottom drivers side rad corner. There should be a sensor there. That is for the choke, and if you use that as your fan thermostat, the fan will kick on when the water temp gauge starts to rise.

 

I'm thinking about getting this Proform one. It looks identical to the Black Magic. But it is quite a bit cheaper. Anyone used it?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4839058+400405

 

most of the RX-7 owners are under-budget so we use our MacGyver skills for alternatives.

 

I won't say what's best, as there are tons of ways to go, but I've always liked the Taurus fan, as it's a near-perfect fit for the radiator, is cheap, and it's 2-speed. I've always wired the low speed to a thermostat on the core support, and low is more than enough to keep the car cool in all driving. You can also put a second relay and switch on it for high-speed, and fire that relay at autocross for the sake of cooling in the pits. If looking for Taurus, you're looking for 95 and older (pre-jellybean) 3.8L, as the fan got thinner when they used the larger engine. Be sure to cut the connector out of the harness, too, for a cleaner install.

 

That is one reason why I went with the taurus efan. 12$ at local pull-a-part, plus it has a shroud to cover the whole rad. If you put just a fan on, you get great cooling where the blades are, and not so great where they are not. With the shroud, you cool everything it covers.

Just my 2 cents. There have been guys who fab up shrouds for those fans you posted.

 

i also use the taurus fans with a toggle switch. work great coupled with a ford racing rad.

 

Black magic 180sx fan here. Haven't used it yet but it moves 3300 CFM, so it should do the trick...

 

alright. electricity and i dont get along too well. using my multimeter i'm gonna try and find out which wire i want to tap into to get power (at my ignition barrel) for my fan. whats the best way to go about doing this? thanks.

dave

 

I would suggest not just hooking your fan directly to the ignition switch so its on whenever the ignition is on. The fan doesn't need to be on all the time, so having it on all the time creates an unneeded 15-20 amp load on your alternator all the time, possibly enough to burn out a stock 55 amp alternator pretty quickly if you consider the rest of the car can use as much as 40 amps I think.

 

nice find!

i really appreciated this!

thanks

 

its not gonna be on all the time. its going through a thermo sensor as well. so it'll only turn on when the temp starts to get too high. will it be fine to run it to the ignition like i was saying before if i've got the thermo sensor in there?

 

You're doing it the hard way. Just tap in at the coil, and get the hell away from the ignition barrel before you break something..

 

Oh ok, I thought you were just going to have the fan turn on with the ignition switch. As stated, the coil power wire will work just fine as long as you only use it to control a relay.

 

if i wire it in at the coil i'm going to have 1 coil getting a bit less power than the other cuz the fan will be drawing from it.

 

When I installed mine, I believe I tapped into a spot at the fusible link junction...

Draw your power straigth from the battery, then use the thermostat to trigger a relay. This is how it should be done...

 

If you use a properly wired relay you shouldn't have any problem with excess draw on your coil wire. A relay will only take a very small amount of power, and the way electricity flows makes it so that the coil sees no less power then before. If it draws 5 amps, it will always draw 5 amps as long as the wire can take it, no matter how much you hook up to that wire.