I was going to hack off the snorkel on the stock airintake and do a insulated coldair like in the one tutorial. But then someone said you can't really force air into a carb like you can EFI.
So then I started thinking maybe the RB Power Pulse Frisbee. Seems like it flows a ton, its going to be hot air, but a shitload of hotair.

I could probably run a 3" dryer duct to the frisbee and have it come out in front of it, to give it some cold air.

I wonder if I could just fit like a mushroom filter ontop like a HKS or Greddy, lol.

Anyways, right now I'm thinking of going for the RB Frisbee setup, unless anyone can convince me that its nowhere close of a coldair setup.

And is it true that carbs arent good at being forced coldair like that? I would think it would be better to be able to pull in as much as it needs, and not just a set amount, but it would be outside temperature and not heated from the radiator and whatnot.

P.S. I live in Scottsdale, AZ and it got up to 118 last summer, so itll be hot as **** no matter what. Gotta remember to have my AC recharged and get tint before too long

 

for a turbo blow through you mean?
wtf are your almost 5000 post about?

 

The purpose of the cold air extension isn't really to force air down into the carb (although you will increase flow), it's to get colder air in there. Colder air is denser, so there is more oxygen available to burn. Especially if it's going to be 118 degrees out. Your engine bay will be pretty hot, and getting cooler air will help.

 

Hes just been around for a while, and probably post a lot like I do (see post count). Just stupid answers like this that dont really mean anything but still bump the count. However, I feel that the post count is kinda silly IMO. I think peoples knowlesge should be judged by post quality, not quantity.

~T.J.

*Chalk up one more for me*

 

Yeah,you guys have both been around... like a record..
lol j/k
Well, I think if you ram air into a carb it puts pressure on it instead of vacuum and messes with the floats. Blowthrough setups require certain modifications. At least, that's my understanding with webers. If you just run a ram air into the filter canister, I don't think it'll be a problem since the air will essentially accumlate in there around the filter and not actually ram it down into the chamber. Also, if you're reading the same tutorial as I remember, it's important to have it insulated as well, since the tubing will eventually heat up in the engine bay and negate the effectiveness.
If you're going to hack off the snorkel, why not just make the opening wider and save some money? If you got a stock setup, the racingbeat one can't be that much better than this cold air setup.

 

Ram air does not change the dynamics of the air pressure entering the carb enough to matter. It does raise the pressure but you will notice that many of the ram air muscle cars of the past had the same carbs as thier regularly hooded counterparts. Cold air is what you want as its density increases power. Cowl induction would be ideal, but most fb owners route air from in front of the radiator to the air filter housing, as it requires less dramatic cutting.

 

BTW when the fark did node invade the First gen world. I thought you were a t2 guy? (I have been away a while)

 

Yes I recant any previous thoughts on ram air. Its a farce. We dont travel fast enough to create any ram effect. However, I stick by cold air as I have seen decreased coolant temps from it. It works. Node, you can have awsome flow AND cold air intake. Do the mod like the tutorial and search for a thread here "ARR box mod". Hard data there, no BS. Teh flowbench dont lie.

 

hmmm, seeing how i just rearended someone (put down a 45ft skidmark) and bent my hood like 1/4" from the headlight lid being pushed back, maybe i can do a cowl induction
****!@$!@%$@!#%


<---Node on toms computer

 

Listen to the dancing banana, it never lies. I know that I'm going for the insulated setup when I do my pre-autoX work this spring, should net me at least a fraction of a HP.

 

I'll bite as i am new here.


What is a RB Power pulse Frisbee??

 

Racingbeat.com check it out for yourself

 

Moses, Ive seen what that does. In an Autox, drag race, stoplight race, start of a longer race, itll net a quicker drop to ambient temp of the intake charge, which should yield a little hp. Again, it wouldnt show on a dyno cause youd have teh hood open, but the intake temp drop time is for real with the insulated cold air intake. Perfect for Autox or drags.

Yea that sux Node, sorry man.

Keyhoe hope you also read this.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=arr+box+mod