The beginnings of the new carpet and black interior conversion
11-07-06, 01:37 PM
#77
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HAHAHA, um, I broke it down earlier in the thread I think, I'm gonna look for it. Are you talking on this project (carpet/interior) or with the other ones I'm doing?
Carpet Front/Rear - $244.95
Dynamat - $160
Primer (4 cans) - $20
Acetone - $15
Wire Wheels - $20
Box of Rags - $10
Color Bond (3 cans) - $38.85
Color Bond Prep Cleaner (3 bottles) - $26.85
Carpet Front/Rear - $244.95
Dynamat - $160
Primer (4 cans) - $20
Acetone - $15
Wire Wheels - $20
Box of Rags - $10
Color Bond (3 cans) - $38.85
Color Bond Prep Cleaner (3 bottles) - $26.85
11-07-06, 01:45 PM
#79
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Its all good, I forgot to put the cost of the colorbond in that last price list. This one has it in there.
Both this project, and the engine bay one I'm doing weren't very expensive, just time consuming. The only reason my engine bay project cost me a little more than it would for most people is because I bought Racing Beat oil lines so I could get rid of my bee hive. And when you buy those lines, and all those damn adapters, its pricey. But the other stuff was just gaskets, so it wasn't too bad.
Man, the more I read/post/view these threads of mine, the more I wish I was at home working on it, instead of being at work. DAMN YOU WORK, takin up my precious day light
.
Both this project, and the engine bay one I'm doing weren't very expensive, just time consuming. The only reason my engine bay project cost me a little more than it would for most people is because I bought Racing Beat oil lines so I could get rid of my bee hive. And when you buy those lines, and all those damn adapters, its pricey. But the other stuff was just gaskets, so it wasn't too bad.
Man, the more I read/post/view these threads of mine, the more I wish I was at home working on it, instead of being at work. DAMN YOU WORK, takin up my precious day light
.
11-07-06, 02:08 PM
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Just wanted to point out one thing,
it looks f'ing awesome so I am not bashing you
but...........
primer that is not covered with paint will absorb moisture. Just something I learned in auto body classes I have taken.
but like I said it looks good.
it looks f'ing awesome so I am not bashing you
but...........
primer that is not covered with paint will absorb moisture. Just something I learned in auto body classes I have taken.
but like I said it looks good.
11-07-06, 02:12 PM
#82
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Originally Posted by 90turbo1
Just wanted to point out one thing,
it looks f'ing awesome so I am not bashing you
but...........
primer that is not covered with paint will absorb moisture. Just something I learned in auto body classes I have taken.
but like I said it looks good.
it looks f'ing awesome so I am not bashing you
but...........
primer that is not covered with paint will absorb moisture. Just something I learned in auto body classes I have taken.
but like I said it looks good.
Thanks for the tip and compliment.
11-07-06, 02:35 PM
#83
MattG FTW!!!!!
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Wow I did not know that, I wish I would have I sprayed my new metal bins with primer to help avoid rusting, but now I know I just helped it. PooP
Oh well, Thanks for the tip
Oh well, Thanks for the tip
11-07-06, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 84stock
What difference in sound have you noticed as a result of using the dynamat?? Before vs after...
I ran it completely stripped (hatch area only) for about a month, before I decided to do the whole car, and got used to the loud noise. I don't rally recall what it sounded like with all the factory stuff, but I'm sure this is WAY better. I used more than they did at the factory anyway, so that helps.
11-07-06, 08:35 PM
#86
When it come to repainting the interior metal, there are several options. Primer itself is designed to bond to the metal and provide a good bonding layer/tooth for a top finish coat. It will absorb moisture and begin rusting under the primer.
It's best to use a good quality primer/sealer, with a top coat, or you can go the route I have been using lately and use an epoxy. These paints get a bit more expensive, but provide the long term protection needed. They also don't come in a rattle can, so one needs a compressor and a small touch-up spray gun, which can be had for 50 bucks.
It's great to spend the time and effort to do this extensive of a restoration, but it only lasts as long as the protective products. Investing in the proper tools and materials compliments the investment of time put into the work. This is what sets the diyers apart from the pros.
A nice benifit of buying a compressor and spray gun, and using it on small jobs like this is it builds confidence, practice and experience so one can take on bigger jobs later, like painting the entire car.
It's best to use a good quality primer/sealer, with a top coat, or you can go the route I have been using lately and use an epoxy. These paints get a bit more expensive, but provide the long term protection needed. They also don't come in a rattle can, so one needs a compressor and a small touch-up spray gun, which can be had for 50 bucks.
It's great to spend the time and effort to do this extensive of a restoration, but it only lasts as long as the protective products. Investing in the proper tools and materials compliments the investment of time put into the work. This is what sets the diyers apart from the pros.
A nice benifit of buying a compressor and spray gun, and using it on small jobs like this is it builds confidence, practice and experience so one can take on bigger jobs later, like painting the entire car.
11-07-06, 10:54 PM
#89
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Originally Posted by 90turbo1
Just wanted to point out one thing,
it looks f'ing awesome so I am not bashing you
but...........
primer that is not covered with paint will absorb moisture. Just something I learned in auto body classes I have taken.
but like I said it looks good.
it looks f'ing awesome so I am not bashing you
but...........
primer that is not covered with paint will absorb moisture. Just something I learned in auto body classes I have taken.
but like I said it looks good.
True... except epoxy primer will not absorb moisture.
11-08-06, 11:19 AM
#90
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Originally Posted by trochoid
When it come to repainting the interior metal, there are several options. Primer itself is designed to bond to the metal and provide a good bonding layer/tooth for a top finish coat. It will absorb moisture and begin rusting under the primer.
It's best to use a good quality primer/sealer, with a top coat, or you can go the route I have been using lately and use an epoxy. These paints get a bit more expensive, but provide the long term protection needed. They also don't come in a rattle can, so one needs a compressor and a small touch-up spray gun, which can be had for 50 bucks.
It's great to spend the time and effort to do this extensive of a restoration, but it only lasts as long as the protective products. Investing in the proper tools and materials compliments the investment of time put into the work. This is what sets the diyers apart from the pros.
A nice benifit of buying a compressor and spray gun, and using it on small jobs like this is it builds confidence, practice and experience so one can take on bigger jobs later, like painting the entire car.
It's best to use a good quality primer/sealer, with a top coat, or you can go the route I have been using lately and use an epoxy. These paints get a bit more expensive, but provide the long term protection needed. They also don't come in a rattle can, so one needs a compressor and a small touch-up spray gun, which can be had for 50 bucks.
It's great to spend the time and effort to do this extensive of a restoration, but it only lasts as long as the protective products. Investing in the proper tools and materials compliments the investment of time put into the work. This is what sets the diyers apart from the pros.
A nice benifit of buying a compressor and spray gun, and using it on small jobs like this is it builds confidence, practice and experience so one can take on bigger jobs later, like painting the entire car.
11-08-06, 07:12 PM
#93
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Originally Posted by twinkletoes
Where are the pics?
I'll get the pics of the rear with the dynamat installed tonight. i totally forgot to snap those lastnight when I snapped the pics for the other thread.
11-08-06, 08:27 PM
#95
does the black dye look like it could possibly be factory once it's all said and done? i've been wanting to do a black int. conversion on my gsl se for a long time now, but i just didnt know how to get a black dash and stuff. this is an awesome project by the way. i did a complete interior overhaul on my 86 gxl, it's very time consuming, but amazingly fun and worth the time.
11-09-06, 10:09 AM
#96
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The dash looks OEM, but is a little dull in shine, I am going to see if some interior cleaning/shine products will bring it out a little more. But I am happy with the way the dash turned out, looks good.
Oh, I've got the pics of the back half of the car with the dynamat in, I'll put them up as soon as I get them off the camera, resize, and send them to my ftp server.
Oh, I've got the pics of the back half of the car with the dynamat in, I'll put them up as soon as I get them off the camera, resize, and send them to my ftp server.
11-09-06, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dj55b
in your last picture there\, why does it seem all wrinked up where it start curving up in the center?