I am trying to change my ball joints and while using the press it just pushed the ball out. The rest is still in the LCA.

Am I skrewed? Any ideas to get the rest out? Happened on both sides.

 

Im pretty sure I answered my own question. Found a picture in a post with the ball joints removed. Looks like the part sticking up is still part of the ball joint and not the control arm. I put some PB blaster on there to soak tonight and will try again tomorrow. Hopefully they press out.

Then I'm getting a bunch of parts blasted and powder coated, new ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, new calipers, and putting in my T3 coilovers

 

examine them closely, sometimes people spot weld them in to keep them from working loose.

also just fyi the reason they work loose is usually because they sometimes get cocked slightly when you press them in, if you just force them on in without straightening them it slightly elongates the holes, making them prone to become loose and requiring spot welds to secure them.

2 cents......

 

definitely spot weld them or this could happen to you:

 

Side question: What ball joints are people buying now days since you can't find Moog anymore? Rock Auto has:

Moovetech for 18
Beck/Arnely for 31
raybestos for 39
acdelco for 41

I am sure that the moovetech stuff is cheep chinese junk, but out of the others, which would last the longest?

 

I've had good luck with Beck/Arnley overall (on other cars etc). Can't go wrong with Raybestos either. I honestly forget which brand I bought for my Fb last time lol.

I'll second what Craaaaazy said, a few tack welds is the way to go. I've had several come out years ago, wasn't fun...

 

I went with the AC Delco ones because they looked better quality from the photos they have. Have not received them yet

 

has anyone else ran into this problem when using aftermarket ball joints? The grease zerk is rubbing on the wheel. The only thing I can think of doing to solve this is to take the zerk out.

 

so nobody has seen this issue with aftermarket ball joints before? I'm 99% sure I got them pressed in all the way but that 1% makes be want to take everything apart again and rent the press again just to make sure.

I would think if I took the zerk out the grease would just get pushed out and make a mess. I could put JB weld in the hole but I would never be able to grease them again.

Thoughts?

 

I had the exact problem, but I am running turn in spacers and thought that was the cause of the problem. I just took the grease fittings out and put in a threaded plug, that way I can put the fitting back in (temporarily) when its time to grease the joint.

 

I am running turn in spacers as well and thought that could be it but seemed odd. I could try installing without and see if that makes the difference.

Another thought.... I bought the T3 setup where they provided the coilovers already assembled. I also upgraded to large front spindles. Is the offset different from GSL to GSL-SE front spindles? I'm not sure which ones I got or if it would make a difference but if the offset is different and I am running stock GSL wheels that could be the issue.

 

It is definitely the turn in spacers. They move it closer by however thick the spacers are.

You can buy a threaded plug that will fix your problem.

The offset from one spindle to the other should not change. The difference in the offset between GSL and GSL-SE is in the hub.

 

Ya I looked at the roll center adjusters again and it is clearly the issue.

Thanks for your help

 

What is the consensus on doing it this way or replacing the entire arm assy with a new Mazda part? They are about $150 to 170 a piece.. not cheap!

My ball joints as well as bushings are in need of replacement, and I considered replacing the arm assy my only option.

Is the ball joint the only issue? I do not have access to a press or welder ):

 

Not sure about Canada but in the states we can rent ball joint presses for free from most auto parts stores. It was pretty easy to do and I'm a mediocre back yard mechanic. Way cheeper than complete LCA replacement. And you should get the energy suspension replacement bushing. Better than factory for the same price

 

if you are going to replace.... I'd get these.

https://technotoytuning.com/mazda/fb...-sa-and-fb-rx7

'Fully Fabricated steel lower control arms (No used OEM parts)!

Double adjustable hardware (extend or shorten on car, no unbolting)

Off the shelf ball joints, strongest option, easy replacement.

Length adjustable from .25" below factory to 1.5" over factory.

Three settings for the swaybar droplink and TC Rods (for widening the track of the car).

Heavy gauge steel used throughout for much more added strength over factory.

Ball joints used are from an AE86 Corolla, but the tapers are exactly the same as the RX7.

There are four different advantages to this. The AE86 ball joints are much beefier, the threaded nose is 14mm instead of the 12mm size of the RX7, the AE86 style ball joint are pressed in AND use a snap ring (vs the RX7 ones that are pressed in only) and the final advantage is that the slightly longer ball joint gives about 1/2" of built in roll center correction to the lower control arms.'