Back seat removal?
I got the two bolts in the fender well areas but are there anymore? It feels like it should be tabs that hold the front part of the seat but are there more bolts that I don't see? This is irritating as heck!
It's held in with the two fender bolts each side. Once you remove them, you can take out the upper half. The lower half is connected to the body with two metal tabs that have an interferance fit to the floorpan. They are often slightly rusty and difficult to remove - get a large flat-bladed screwdriver and lever them up, or just put your back into it and give it a good tug
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,328
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
Originally Posted by BAN SUVS
Thanks so much for the reply!
I got the fender bolts easily but the bugger just wouldn't come out. It will now!
back seat
I got the fender bolts easily but the bugger just wouldn't come out. It will now!
back seat
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I took my seat out and threw it away, all export RX-7's in this part of the world have them and I wanted a two-seater.
I have had seven people in the car before, three up front, three in the back and one in the hatch
I have had seven people in the car before, three up front, three in the back and one in the hatch
I really do like that back seat even if it is nonfunctional.
It is rare and a neat thing to say I have.
As far as the cancer, at least there and a small 4" spot on the floor board are all that I have as far as rust. I'm going to try and keep the car as long as I can and strictly a dry weather car. I'll drive it through the winter as long as it's dry. Ohio weather isn't very cooperative though.
It is rare and a neat thing to say I have.
As far as the cancer, at least there and a small 4" spot on the floor board are all that I have as far as rust. I'm going to try and keep the car as long as I can and strictly a dry weather car. I'll drive it through the winter as long as it's dry. Ohio weather isn't very cooperative though.
Originally Posted by BAN SUVS
I really do like that back seat even if it is nonfunctional.
It is rare and a neat thing to say I have.
As far as the cancer, at least there and a small 4" spot on the floor board are all that I have as far as rust. I'm going to try and keep the car as long as I can and strictly a dry weather car. I'll drive it through the winter as long as it's dry. Ohio weather isn't very cooperative though.
It is rare and a neat thing to say I have.
As far as the cancer, at least there and a small 4" spot on the floor board are all that I have as far as rust. I'm going to try and keep the car as long as I can and strictly a dry weather car. I'll drive it through the winter as long as it's dry. Ohio weather isn't very cooperative though.

Here ya go, my old auction should help with the pics:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEUS%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEUS%3AIT
Originally Posted by NOPR
hell yeah ohio is a ballsac. too much rain and snow/salt. i live over in gahanna, i dont own my seven yet but im getting an fc within the next two weeks most likely. the guy im buying it from has to finish rebuilding it for me. he has another one he's selling if your interested?
All I have to say is unbelieveable. The wheel well rust was the result of what looks like a hole that was drilled into it.
It was rusted under the paint in a about a 7"x7" area but the wheel well steel is intact. Thank goodness.
I've got it grinded down, now I just need to fill that small hole and prime that area and I'm done. Then repair the hole in the floor board and I can get the 7 back together.yea! The small hole was up by the plastic near the top of the side of the wheel well. That small hole caused that big problem.
It was rusted under the paint in a about a 7"x7" area but the wheel well steel is intact. Thank goodness.
I've got it grinded down, now I just need to fill that small hole and prime that area and I'm done. Then repair the hole in the floor board and I can get the 7 back together.yea! The small hole was up by the plastic near the top of the side of the wheel well. That small hole caused that big problem.
I wouldn't mind having the back seat, but with the cage going in, I'm going to lose my bins.
When you get your rust ground out, any that is left you will need to treat/convert. I use Rust Converter that you can pick up at Walmart. Then I prime with epoxy.
When you get ready to finish the inner wheelwell, behind the tire, look at the patch that is spot welded to the body. You will notice gaps around this piece and 2 small holes punched through it. Get some seam sealer and fiill the holes and caulk around that plate. That is the biggest reason why our wheel wells rust out.
After the caulk, converter and epoxy, get some rubberized underbody coating and treat the entire wheel well. Should last a long time then.
If there is any rust left, it will come back if not removed or treated.
When you get your rust ground out, any that is left you will need to treat/convert. I use Rust Converter that you can pick up at Walmart. Then I prime with epoxy.
When you get ready to finish the inner wheelwell, behind the tire, look at the patch that is spot welded to the body. You will notice gaps around this piece and 2 small holes punched through it. Get some seam sealer and fiill the holes and caulk around that plate. That is the biggest reason why our wheel wells rust out.
After the caulk, converter and epoxy, get some rubberized underbody coating and treat the entire wheel well. Should last a long time then.
If there is any rust left, it will come back if not removed or treated.
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