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Got my report from the mechanic on my 84; FB; R2; 1.1L; 12AWould love to know if any of the Oracles here have any comments about the following:
Also: Anyone know a Mazda mechanic near Sacramento?
Tech Comment 1.Engine oil is dark
My Question to You: What type of oil do you recommending?
Tech Comment 2.Coolant is discolored.
My Question to You: Drove car home (about 7 mi.) from shop. No problems, until 1/4 m. from home. Car
started running hot. Made it home; but, when I got to the house Mt. Vesuvius erupted.
I let her cool, topped off the coolant; ran her for 15 min. with no issues. I purchased a
thermostat, just in case. Any recommendations?
Tech Comment 3.Right rear stabilizer bushing is loose
My Question to You: Obviously the entire suspension system needs to be replaced.
Any suggestion/recommendations?
Tech Comment 4. Front Shock/Strut and Wheel Bearings / Rear Strut/Shock and Wheel Bearings
My Question to You: Obviously the entire suspension system needs to be replaced.
Any suggestion/recommendations?
Tech Comment 5. All brake rotors are pitted, and pads, caliper, master cylinder, etc. should be replaced.
My Question to You: Obviously the entire braking system needs to be replaced.
Coolant: Flush the system and install a new Mazda thermostat and gasket if that's your desire. The system can overheat and pressurize from a faulty coolant seal or corroded housing near an exhaust port. I would immediately use a coolant pressure tester and pressurize the system to cap pressure and see if the pressure drops, indicating a leak in the system. If it's not external, its internal. And its rebuild time. Mazda FL22 coolant is preferred.
Suspension bushings: Energy Suspension seem to be nice quality for a good price. I've had them in my 85 for 12 years and have had zero issues.
Brakes: new pads, rotors, inner and outer bearings, seals, and check caliper pistons for sticking. Consider braided stainless hoses.
Suspension: I love my Tokico Blue shocks and struts. Best out there for the price ad ride comfort/handling abilities.
It should work just fine. All you need to do is pressurize the system at the radiator to cap pressure. If the leak is external you'll see it. If the pressure drops instead of holding steady and there is no external leak, the leak is inside of the engine, likely at a coolant seal or corroded coolant seal channel on the one of the housings.
07-20-20, 11:47 PM
