vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

well okay, the only ugly thing is a RX-7 that won't run.

The guys at RX-7 Heaven yelled at me for using a bit (okay, read alot) of ATF to get my engine unseized, and you'll see people warning about it on the forums. But Mazspeed actually RECOMMENDS it to restore compression (http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm)

What gives? is ATF in the combustion chamber good, or bad?

Jon

specRX7_22

ask sterling lol

BRealistic

I have heard that water works better. Don't remember the exact process, though.

pratch

Heh - the mazspeed consensus has oscillated a little bit.

Using some ATF may help. The facts write-up on mazspeed mentions 2 oz. (read also not very much). This forum has a few people who will tell you to go to your local bulk store and buy the 10 gallon jug of ATF to dump into your engine.

As with all things, the truth is likely somewhere in the middle.

The biggest issue Sterling takes with the mention of ATF (Sterling, I'm sure you'll tell me if I'm misrepresenting your viewpoint) is that it's being used as a panacea (that's cure-all for you younger types) which it isn't.

BRealistic

Is this something that should be done to an engine, even if the engine is running good, to prevent carbon lock and help compression?

Blitz0309

I read somewhere that routine atfing isn't bad... but i don't see a reason to do it if its not required. Maybe once every 50k... hell i don't know. Too many people say way to many differen't things about atf.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

ok, when flooded gas washes away the oil from the seals losing compression. pouring atf in will replace the oil that was washed away. guess what, motor oil should do the same without looking like your car is on fire. atf loosens carbon deposits. there are other products that do the same. some believe mmo will also loosen carbon buildup. any motor will benefit from removing carbon buildup every once in a while.

this should also give some info into mmo and its uses.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=mmo

fatboy7

Just remember that most fluids aren't compressible.... ever heard of water-lock?!? Bad things happen when there is an appreciable amount of any fluid in your engine, all of which would require a rebuild in the least....

keep the atf to 2oz just to be on the safe side, unless you have means to drain out excess before starting it.
(i.e. engine removed from car, and must be stored for a while before it can be reinstalled)

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

i dropped1 quart of atf and 1 quart of mmo when i did the 79. i hand turned the motor. you can also pull the plugs if you are worried abut hydro lock. i know that it was well coated then.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Well when I unseized the engine this summer, I used ATF, and I turned it by hand, with the spark plugs out, making sure that the rotors were coming TOWARD the bottom plugs from the bottom of the chamber. Thus, in a messy display of gunk, the atf that went in, was scooped up by the apex seals from the bottom and oozed out the bottom spark plug holes, and onto my driveway (which needs redoing anyway, so I don't care). That way there wasn't a buildup of *anything* in my chamber, but I'm sure the walls and rotors were completely red with ATF by the time I was done, considering how much I was using.

I had it running at a very low idle for a few min (with a spray bottle of gasoline because the carb was gummed) but I haven't run it alot yet. Hopefully it won't re-seize over the winter and I'll be able to get all the ATF and carbon out when the new carb comes in.

Dcrasta

I started a gsl-se that sat for 2 years by using a small oil squirt can, and squirted atf in the engine (rotating by hand). I used alot (about 2 ounces per housing per combustion side). But then with the plugs out, I cranked the motor (with the starter) and the fuel pump disconnected. The spinning (in theory) caused the oil to be discharged (nice mist of atf in my engine bay yuk!). Then once I put the plugs in, sprayed a little starter fluid on the air filter, it fired up. IT was smokey for a while, but now runs like a champ.

I heard about the water treatment (this is somethign I have also done to a piston car). What u do is this.

Take about a pint - 2 pints of water into a bottle (coke 1 litre bottle works fine).

Find a vacuum inlet that goes into the intake (after the throttle plate).

start the motor and warm it up to the normal operating temp.

Remove the vacuum line (holding the engine at about 2-3k).

put the vacuum line in the water (maintain the engine speed). What happens next is the water is sucked into the motor (not alot because the actual vacuum line is small (1/8th line is the one I used, the one that goes to the dist). The steam that is created in theory breaks up the carbon and deposit in the cc and the cat.

After running a litre of water through the motor u can reconnect all your lines, let it idle until it is smooth, and your done. I used a 50/50 water / alcohol mix and I do this about twice a year to both my 79 and my 85 and they are running strong at 150,000 plus miles.

I also did this to a 87 Conquest (mitsubishi Starion) that I owned before I sold it. Seemed to make the car run a little smoother after the 'treatment'

brownmound

We need to get that biochemistry prof Ray Green to do a research project on this, the effects of ATF on rotary combustion carbon buildup! Then the mystery would be solved.

Suparslinc

I used it a couple of times, I don't know if this is related but now my cats are completely choked.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, from what I've heard the smoke produced from ATF is absolutely rich and filthy.. oh well, my cats need replacing at some point anyway, tho I was hoping I could put the 550USD upgrade off until next year, and just get it running stock this year (550USD * 1.6 = 880 dollars canadian, a little more than I have to throw around)

Jon

Manntis

Remember folks, ATF fluid isn't much more than 5W-40 with dye added...

and vipernicus, the exchange right now is 1.42, not 1.6

pratch

1.4822 as of right now...