any tips of a 1983 Rx-7
#1
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any tips of a 1983 Rx-7
well I am getting a 1983 Rx-7. From what I hear it hasn't been driven in like 6 years. I know for a fact that it needs a new clutch. but I would like to know what else should I be aware of? I am indeed new.
When I get the RX-7 to my house I will be very sure to upload pictures of the beast.
basically I am just asking for tips and things I need to know. I'll be sure to keep you guys updated when I get it.
When I get the RX-7 to my house I will be very sure to upload pictures of the beast.
basically I am just asking for tips and things I need to know. I'll be sure to keep you guys updated when I get it.
#2
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
1) drain what ever goo is in the fuel tank BEFORE you try to start it!! Should be a drain plug on your tank
2) change fuel filter: up under car in front of driver rear wheel: Fram G12 @$3
3) change oil, filter
4) make sure coolant OK (change ASAP, but not necessary for a start-up as long as its not plugged up) DO NOT DRIVE unless your sure coolant is recent or you have changed it!! Rotaries require cooling be up to snuff - these babies generate a LOT of heat!
5) I'd pour a good few ounces of 10-30 motor oil into the carbs/engine prior to a DRY crank to get things inside lubed up for a proper start. You should disconnect FUEL PUMP (also up with fuel filter, under the metal cover). The connection is under the metal covers behind the interior seats. Idea is not to flood engine while dry-cranking. you might be lucky and find there is a fuse for your fuel pump? My 1980 does not have this
6) pull coil wires off distributor
7) crank a good 10 sec to get the oil around inside
8) re-connect everything and give it a go
NOTE: need a STRONG battery to crank and ignite these! Weak battery may spin fine but not light her up... did you clean the battery posts and connections??
Change coolant ASAP. Highly recommend you pull the rad, take to a rad shop for a chem-dunk ($65-ish) and get all the unknown **** out of it. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
Change ALL the rad and water heater hoses!!!!! New thermostat would be smart.
Change tranny and diff too. Lot of us here use Amsoil or Red Line synth.
Castrol GTX most popular engine oil (?). Synth seems to be wasted on rotaries.
NUMBER ONE ROTO-RULE:
THEY BURN OIL -BY DESIGN-!!!!! MUST check oil consumption weekly. anything over 500mi/qt is considered normal use. Change at 3000mi for long engine life.
Finally- flush brake and clutch systems. Old fluid will be more water than fluid by now = rust and corrosion in lines. $$$
*whew*
Check archives here. MUCH great info. MANY great folks.
enjoy.
welcome!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
2) change fuel filter: up under car in front of driver rear wheel: Fram G12 @$3
3) change oil, filter
4) make sure coolant OK (change ASAP, but not necessary for a start-up as long as its not plugged up) DO NOT DRIVE unless your sure coolant is recent or you have changed it!! Rotaries require cooling be up to snuff - these babies generate a LOT of heat!
5) I'd pour a good few ounces of 10-30 motor oil into the carbs/engine prior to a DRY crank to get things inside lubed up for a proper start. You should disconnect FUEL PUMP (also up with fuel filter, under the metal cover). The connection is under the metal covers behind the interior seats. Idea is not to flood engine while dry-cranking. you might be lucky and find there is a fuse for your fuel pump? My 1980 does not have this
6) pull coil wires off distributor
7) crank a good 10 sec to get the oil around inside
8) re-connect everything and give it a go
NOTE: need a STRONG battery to crank and ignite these! Weak battery may spin fine but not light her up... did you clean the battery posts and connections??
Change coolant ASAP. Highly recommend you pull the rad, take to a rad shop for a chem-dunk ($65-ish) and get all the unknown **** out of it. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!
Change ALL the rad and water heater hoses!!!!! New thermostat would be smart.
Change tranny and diff too. Lot of us here use Amsoil or Red Line synth.
Castrol GTX most popular engine oil (?). Synth seems to be wasted on rotaries.
NUMBER ONE ROTO-RULE:
THEY BURN OIL -BY DESIGN-!!!!! MUST check oil consumption weekly. anything over 500mi/qt is considered normal use. Change at 3000mi for long engine life.
Finally- flush brake and clutch systems. Old fluid will be more water than fluid by now = rust and corrosion in lines. $$$
*whew*
Check archives here. MUCH great info. MANY great folks.
enjoy.
welcome!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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