Howzit- I'm about to take a leap of faith, got my new rebuilt 12a, and planning to use Evan's waterless coolant. I like the idea of a pressureless system and from all that I've been able to read here,and elsewhere it seems to be for real, but to be honest I'm still a little hesitant cuz', I haven't heard anyone talk about it in the long term. So I'm just checking to see if there's been any new feedback- Aloha-

 

I've never heard of it, and i wouldn't try it unless someone you know has....

 

Evans comes highly recomended by Rob Golden (Pineapple Racing). I am still learning about it, but have every intention of using it in my new motor.

 

I would definitely use it. Only downside is the price.

 

what on earth is it??
whats used instead of coolant??
another liquid or some sort of presurised gas like air-con??

 

it uses a propylene glycol base with no water added. propylene glycol has an absurdly high boiling point at atmospheric pressure (something like 372degF, quick math in the head converts that to appx. 190degC) which means you can run the cooling system non-pressurized and still have phenomenal protection.

the main problem with cooling systems is when you get localized hot spots that boil the coolant away from the hot spot. you get a localized steam pocket. the coolant cannot get to the hot spot to cool it off, similar to how a drop of water dances on a hot frying pan without touching it. obviously, cooling ability diminishes greatly. the Evans NPG will not suffer from this because its boiling point is SO HIGH.

Because you use no water, you need twice as much of the Evans NPG as you do regular coolant. Also, you must either start with all new components or flush your entire cooling system, there is a procedure involving a more readily available "water mix" propylene glycol coolant.

 

how is it not presureised? by taking out the thermostat? or is a whole new radiator system?

 

You can buy a non pressurized radiator cap, or modify an existing one.

This doesn't prevent the block from getting pressurized due to water pump head pressure, but it's better than radiator pressure + head pressure!

 

Man now that sounds pretty cool..

I will have to check on this

although sounds like peejay has done his homework on this

 

Hey, thanks for the replies, hope to do a long term update in the future with details on my experiences with this product. -Buff

 

So whats involved in switching over to it? Just flushing the old **** and putting the evans stuff in? Or is it more involved than that?

 

It's a bit more involved than that, I would check out Evans' web site and Rob at his PineappleRacing.com site, their loaded with info- also check the guys in2nd& 3rd. gen for tidbits on install clues-

 

what hasn't peejay done his homework on? i bet he was the kid in class who wouldnt put his hand down....

 

No, i bet he never said anything in class cause he was too busy reading car magazines.

 

that makes sense, but isn't this what Redline Water Wetter supposedly prevents with water/antifreeze mixes? supposed to decrease the water's surface tension and also raise its specific heat or something to that effect?

 

I don't understand it....
propylene glycol
1) has a much lower specific heat,(.60 cal/g*K vs 1.00cal/g*K) so it takes forty percent less time to heat up
2)doesn't conduct heat nearly as well as water,(.21W/g*C vs .43 W/g*C)so it cools twice as slow requiring a larger radiator, to be as effective.
3)at 104 degrees C becomes flammable. yikes!!
So yes it gives you higher temperature protection, but at what expence.

I don't understand it, thats not to say it does't work, but just shows that I haven't heard enough about it, or seen any proof that it would have any sort of longevity.

If it weren't for the low boiling point/ low freezing point of water, there would be no reason to use anything else. It conducts heat very well, and as a specific heat more than almost any material out there.

 

We have a winner!

 

Good points. Water Wetter is good stuff (I used it for a while, saw positive results) but you still need to have a fully pressurized system, which puts strain on the radiator and hoses. Read on...

Keep in mind that localized boiling is the main cause of overheating. The engine doesn't suddenly boil over, it starts out with a hot spot here or there, because even though the coolant is under a goodly amount of pressure in the block, it can still boil in spots. And those spots get bigger. This stresses the cooling system greatly, because it has to work overtime to keep these hot spots from occurring.

Besides, the popylene glycol, while aborbing less heat per gram, is a heavier luquid than water, so the situation is not as bad as you make it out to be when you consider that cooling systems move a volume of water, not a weight.