So I finally get the car (84 GSL-SE) running great...no leaks..no odd noises..etc.
So this morning im driving to work...just pulled outta the driveway when all my gauges fall to zero. My speedo works still but everything els is just sitting there. The blinker indicators dont work either. A few weeks ago I had this problem but it was only the fuel gauge...and it corrected itself in a hour or so. Im at work now and live 30 miles away...I hate the thought of having to drive without knowing my vitals...they way my luck runs this will be the one time the radiator pukes and i wont know it. Cany anyone help me? I did search but could not find anything liek this.
I was attempting to check my fuse panel..I couldnt tell which fuse is which...about half the fuses are different from the diagram on the panle cover. When reading the diagram...which fuses are closest to the seat? I cant tell.
Im off work in a few hours and would like to have it fixed before then.

 

It's a bad fuse. Sometimes the fusebox prongs are poor and the fuses pickup a lot of corrosion, especially the blade type. I just had this problem with my 83 2 weeks ago and I've had it in the past.

Try some Contact Cleaner from the electronics shop on the prongs, and pull the fuses one at a time and replace any with green stuff on them (Cleaning with emory cloth doesn't work well, just go to the autostore and get a jumbo pack of assorted fuses and toss any old ones with greenstuff).

I've had fusebox prongs go so bad that they melted from the effort (especially the ventilation fan fuse) so I went to the JY and cannibalized prongs from junked 7s. It's hard to replace the whole fusebox but easy to replace a prong (loosen the fusebox from the metal to make it easier).

The labeling on the fusebox is usually wrong, so just check wire colors against the appropriate wiring diagram in the Haynes Manual. That also helps you check to ensure the right fuse size is inserted, since a previous owner may have put in the wrong size.

B

 

Thanks man!

 

Another couple of possibilities to check out if that is not it;

Sometimes if the ignition key does not completely return from the starting position, the guages will not work.

A grounding issue could also cause symptoms like this.

Hope this helps... Good luck!

 

Thanks ^

Fuses didnt help..replaced all of them and cleaned the ports with contact cleaner.
Am I gonna need to rip my dash apart to get to the grounds?

 

Check the major grounds first (the ones in the engine compartment). Battery cables, etc.

 

Hmmm. There's one fuse that protects all the gauges (except tach). But as I recall there is also a 'voltage regulator' for the gauges whose purpose must be to provide uniform volts at the gauges regardless of alternator output.

Do you have any idiot lights on? Do the idiot lights act strange?

B

 

IIRC the fuse for the gauges is the one in the corner closest to the steering wheel and seat,since youve already checked those just keep that in mind for future reference. ive got a spare set of gauges ill sell if yours are bad(or if you want to test).its a long shot but its happened to me before.

 

I had a fusible link blow out once, but I can't remember the symptoms. But the fusible material is available at the autostore.

What about idiot light synptoms?

B

 

No problems with idiot lights...they come one whne you run the switch but quickly go off. I did notice that my emergency flasher light indicators come on but the blinker indicator light does not. I jiggled some fuses under the dash and no joy.

How much of a PITA is getting the gauges out?

 

If I recall correctly, there is a grounding location behind the dash that can get corroded and cause these issues. A search might pull that post up, but I don't recall any details. I believe that you need to remove the dash to get to it though...

Have you verified that you have good grounding from the engine to the body? You might even consider running an extra ground. Just get some heavy gauge (at least 10 ga.) wire and run it from the body of the alternator (or the mount) straight to the negative battery post. At the very least I would do this just to test if it corrects your issues....

Good luck man!

 

Before you go to all the trouble of R&Ring the gauges (as I almost did myself a couple weeks ago) please make sure that the fuse is actually working. Look up the wire color in the Haynes manual for the main lead to the instruments and test the fuse lead on each side with a voltmeter (or with a 12v. bulb with leads soldered on, as I've had handy in every car for 40 years and saved myself tons of electric problems). I cannot imagine any problem that would cause all your gauges to go out at once.

When I had this problem a month ago on my 83GS the battery icon would glow weakly when the engine was running, and the turnsignals did not work. It was that damn fuse. The fuse I pulled out was OK, but the blades were slightly green with corrosion and a new fuse solved the problem.

B

 

If the fuse you are talking about is a 10 amp, then that is the fuel pump fuse.

 

You can figure out what the fuses REALLY are from the wire color codes in the manual. the stamped markings on the cover are ambiguous.

B

 

no, it might have been the 2nd fuse but i know it was in that corner. the conectors were loose and allowed the fuse to fall out onto the floorboard, i checked all of the fuses in the box and they were good,then i saw the empty hole and the fuse lying on the carpet.

i know its not very likely that the gauses went out but it can happen. the gauges in my 83 went bad due to the idoit before me wiring the radio wrong.

 

Wiggling the fuses may not reveal the problem: it didn't for me. The tuning fork prongs they used are unreliable. You have to actually look at them and the easiest way is to loosen the 2 screws that hold the fusebox in and bringing everything down to where you can examine it easily. One time the vent fan prongs were melted, which explained why the new fuse didn't solve the problem.

B