White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

As many already know, I just changed out the water pump. What appears to have happened is when I put the new gasket and RTV on the housing, it pushed the pully out just a bit. This in turn made the belt from the air pump off line a little bit, which is creating a clicking, type noise when it turns. I took the pully off the air pump and placed three small washers behind it in hopes of getting the two pullies to line up again, it worked, however the air pump pully has a slight wobble now.

Anyone got any ideas how I can get this clicking to stop?

How tight should the belt be? When I tighten the air pump, I pull it back as far as I can to get the belt nice and tight before I tighten the bolt on the bottom bracket.

waldog

iTrader: (12)

Idk if this is good advice. But I changed most of my belts and got that annoying clicking sound too. I took spray white grease and barely sprayed it on the belt (not a lot, just a tad). The clicking stopped for a day or two, then came back. I did it again and now it seems ok. I imagine to much white grease. would cause the belt to slip. Idk.

Black grease would work too, if you're not into white stuff and are racist.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

lol, I dont care what color it is, as long as it stops the sound. I did spray some belt dressing on it and it stopped for a few minutes, then started again. The belt dressing is kinda greasy also.

waldog

iTrader: (12)

Try the white grease. Do it while the engine is running (watch your finger from the fan).

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

something is not lined up properly and needs to be traced to the first belt replacement. i've never experienced this problem. i would trace the root cause and not install washers as a crutch. look back at the alternator belt and the alternator's position and bracket.

bstrange99

Washers aren't a precision part. The thickness will vary, even out of the same box. That's most likely the cause of the wabble on the air pump pully. What you want there is shims. Specify the difference to the parts counter guy/girl because sometimes they're not the sharpest tool in the shed.

That being said, I don't think a variance in gasket thickness is enough to offset a belt enough to cause an issue like you're stating.

+1 on mazdaverx13b. Something's not right.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

What could it be then?

I get the clicking sound, but when I spray a little belt dressing on just the air pump belt, it stops.

All the belts appear straight, except the air pump one. You could see the belt tailing just a little to the right coming out of the pully. The washers helped, but did not completely solve the problem.

I read thru the rats nest removal again last night and seemed to be able to follow it a little better, so I'm thinking I may try this in a few weeks. THere are just certain things in there when it gets to taking the carb stuff off that I dont know what its talking about, and some of the pics are not clear to me since I dont know what to look for in the pic.

The wobble is better with the placement of 3 washers that look the same this morning.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

it looks as if your air pump "U" spacer is not tick enough based on the pic in your other thread. should be 3 "U"'s thick if i remember properly. i can post a pic if need be.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

Can you post a pic? I put the same spacer that came off it back on so I dont know.

Here are some new pics.

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This will probably sound stupid to all you car gurus out there, but how much tension should be on the belts? How do you check? When I put these on I just pulled the air pump and altenator as tight as I could to get the belt nice and tight. The ac I just kept turning the screw till the belt got real tight.

Im guessing I could have overtightened my belts? How do I know?

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

looks almost as if the air pump itself was too far towards the front of the car, i haven't had mine on for years or else i would check, but maybe a spacer/washer is on the wrong side of the mounting bracket?

bstrange99

I believe the belt tension should be set so you can twist the belt 90 degrees at the center, between two pulleys, but no further. Or 3/8 inch deflection.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i'll post a pic of the proper spacer setup on the air pump in the morning when i get off of work.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

here's a pic of the proper spacer:

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

also, is the lower bolt on the air pump tight? did you make sure the adjusting bracket is not bent?

EDIT::: after a second look at my spare complete 12A engine you are using the correct spacer. the 12A uses a single "U" shaped spacer and the GSL-SE which i have been working on uses the three stack spacer..which is what i posted a pic of.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

Thanks 13b, yes I only have the one spacer. Thanks 99, I will check my tension. So I should be able to turn the belt to the side (90), but no more, right.

I may take my washers out this afternoon because it does look like the pump is out too far, but when its mounted without the washers, it looks like the belt is positioned to the right on the pully.

Man, I try to fix one thing and end up with another issue.

13b, the adjusting bracket on the bottom of the air pump is not bent, I just took it off and put it back on, however I could have put it on backwards if it has an offset. Best I can remember, the mounting tab to the bracket just does slide into place so I dont think that could be my issue, BUT I will certainly take a look at it this afternoon to be sure.

Thanks again for the help.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

thanks for verifying that that is the proper spacer, mazdaverx. idk what else to tell you man . . . get rid of it :P

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

lol, if I had a little more confidence I would pull the rats nest. The instruction loose me when it gets to taking the carb stuff off. I just dont know what its talking about, and even looking at the pics in the instructions dont help if you dont know the name of the part in the pic, lol.

SonkoX

what is the threat of ripping the whole air pump off out of curiosity?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

destruction of the main converter. its a costly sucker. for the SE it retails for $2300.00 and change from the dealer.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

I took the washers out and will try to line the camera up with the belt and post another pic to see if it looks straight.

Again, yesterday after taking the washers out from behind the air pump pully and loosening the belt some, it started the clicking, spray a little belt dressing on it and it stops for awhile.

I may try the white grease.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

greasing the belts is NEVER a good idea and is only a bandaid for the true problem. where did you get the new belts from? i have found the Dayco belts from advance auto to be a good replacment. the Gates belts from Napa seem to stretch too much under use. let us know what you come up with. i'd really like to help you get this issue resolved.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

Thanks man.

The alternator and the AC belts are new from Advance. When I replaced the belts about 2 months ago, they did not have one that would work on the air pump, so I just left the old one on there. I have no idea how old it is since I just got the car in Feb. It did not look too bad so I figured it would last awhile. The others had chunks missing so I had to get them replaced quickly.

Do you think it could simply be an old belt? I really dont understand how a little belt dressing will quiet it down so easily, then it starts back up clicking. Its not squealing like its slipping.

I was thinking about getting a new belt, but Im also trying to get the nerve up to try and take the rats nest out. I just get lost when it gets to the carb portion with all the vacuum lines and stuff. Dont want to buy new belt, then take the stuff off in the next month or two.


Hey, the good thing about my water pump and housing change is I currently have no leaks.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

that is good news on the lack of leaks. i would replace the belt. an old belt will expand and can glaze and make noise when old. why are you wanting to remove the rats nest? ray green has a nice writeup and i have pics of exactly what to do. ray advised that his driveability suffered and his gas mileage went down when he removed the rats nest in his 7. i prefer just to leave them myself. makes diagnosis eaiser for me. for some, the rats nest removal may make things eaiser. i just like having something different and i prefer the stock appeal.

White81Z28

iTrader: (4)

13b, I was thinking about doing it because it seems to be what everyone does. Was thinking hard about it since the air pump is now clicking.

I was wondering if anyone ever had any trouble by doing so, I sure dont want to cause anymore issues, or get less mpg's.

I have a link for the removal at home but not here, is Ray's the one that most link too here?

I would have thought that getting rid of the emmisions would open up the motor and make it run better.

Hey 13b, on another thread, a guy was talking about removing the ac belt trying to get more power. My ac needs charging and I dont use it, if I took the belt off and removed the compressor, would that hurt anything? Also, how do you disconnect the two hoses coming out of it?

13, I put a new belt on from advance this afternoon and I think my clicking has disappeared. Ill see if it starts up again tomorrow. I guess sometimes its the simple things.

Anyway, can you answer my ac questions? I took that belt off tonight also and was wondering about the compressor and the pipes going into it. One I see goes to the firewall on the other side of the car and can be disconnected easily, the other goes toward the rad, I dont see a connect on that one.

I may wait on the rats nest if I can get that belt to stay quite.

Thanks again for your help with the belt.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

you will see no power gain by removing the a/c compressor or belt. if you are never going to use the a/c, it wont hurt to pull the compressor. i removed the compressor and condensor on my 85 GS that i swapped a 13B EGI engine in. as far as disconnecting the a/c lines, it depends which compressor you have. its either one bolt throught the center of the line "block" where it connects to the compressor or you remove each individual line from the compressor if you have each threaded line. i believe the compressors were either sanden or nippon denso. the a/c is great to use if its working properly.